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Bohemian Athens

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Athens is infused with counterculture, ranging from the anarchic and graffitied to global-nomad hipster. Bohemia tends to concentrate in a few neighborhoods, notably Exarchia, Kerameikos, Metaxourgeio and the road leading toward Pireaus, but street art and edgy eateries can dot even posher neighborhoods. Of note are Athens’ many wonderful collective DIY art venues combining nightlife, music, art, performance and sometimes even daytime work.
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Exarcheia, Athens 106 81, Greece
Exarcheia is the most unique neighborhood in Athens, by far. It's not for everyone. It's gritty, graffiti-laden, and crawling with punk rock kids who are far more harmless than they appear. But behind its rough exterior you'll find a dozen...
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Leonidou 9, Athina 104 37, Greece
Art woman about town Rebecca Camhi has been in the city since 1995, but hers was one of first galleries to settle into Athens' now trendy, and still somewhat sketchy, Metaxourgeio neighborhood. Expect to see beautifully curated and...
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Athens, Greece
Street art and graffiti seem to be everywhere in the Greek capital. Taking the form of firewall murals; colorful creations on smaller walls, gates, and dumpsters; and even tiny tags by notorious sprayers, much of the newer work makes direct...
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Kolokotroni 57, Athina 105 60, Greece
Booze Cooperativa is “a brain hub of tribes and nations in creative disruption.” That certainly sounds like millennial trendspeak, but the Cooperativa—a three-story neoclassical textile mill repurposed in 1989 into spaces...
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Leonidou 63-65, Athina 104 35, Greece
In a derelict empty lot in the trendy-but-scruffy neighborhood of Kerameikos, architect and sometime skateboarder Zarchos Varfis saw potential: In summer 2017 (after some serious crowdfunding, connecting, and fundraising) he opened Latraac, a...
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Street, Petraki 15, Athina 105 63, Greece
The brainchild of Greek art curator Helena Papadoupoulos (formerly of New York and Berlin and thus a familiar face on the art circuit), Radio Athènes is an arts nonprofit that advances visual culture. That means it not only mounts...
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Pireos 84, Athina 104 35, Greece
A prime Athens spot on a hot summer (or spring, or fall) night, Bios is a hybrid of watering hole and cultural center—the rooftop bar and its performance area are legendary for perfect Acropolis views, but there’s a lot more going...
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Melanthiou, Athina 105 54, Greece
Cycling fanatic and Brit-born Gareth Jones first opened a bike shop called Vicious Cycles, then expanded into the next-door space with the Handlebar, a funky vegetarian restaurant/bar/“cycle” cafe/DJ emporium. The fare...