Buffalo

Buffalo has flown under the radar for far too long. With unparalleled architecture, world-class museums and art galleries, inventive restaurants and cocktail bars, traditional pubs on nearly every street corner, and art and food festivals celebrating diverse local communities, the City of Good Neighbors is more than worth a visit. While most may associate Buffalo with chilly winters and delicious pub food—which wouldn’t necessarily be wrong—there’s so much more going on here.

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Photo by Open Tours LLC/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Buffalo?

Buffalo is one of those lucky places that experiences each season to the extreme. Winter brings blankets of thick white snow, while spring offers a break from freezing temperatures and the chance to get outside and explore Buffalo’s Frederick Law Olmsted–designed parks. In the summer, you can look forward to lush greenery and 80-degree days, perfect for strolling the Queen City’s historic neighborhoods during a local festival. Come fall, the city’s domineering oak and maple trees light up the streets with vibrant colors that make for great photo opportunities.

Should you feel inclined to avoid Buffalo during the winter months, know that locals embrace the colder temperatures with outdoor activities like snowboarding, skiing, and sledding. Each year, Labatt Blue even hosts a four-day pond hockey tournament at RiverWorks. Winter is also a great time to check out Buffalo’s food scene, as you have a better chance of snagging a table without a reservation.

How to get around Buffalo

Buffalo Niagara International Airport is about 10 miles from downtown. While there are a host of private taxi services available curbside, your best bet is to take an Uber or Lyft for about $20. The city also has a metro rail that runs the length of Main Street, starting at the University of Buffalo South Campus and continuing through the Theatre District and Downtown to Canalside.

Neighborhoods like Allentown, Elmwood Village, and Hertel Avenue in North Buffalo are quite walkable, but because of the city’s sprawl, you’ll want a car to travel between areas. For those seeking a more scenic experience, there’s Reddy Bikeshare, which starts at $3 for a two-day pass. Riders can pick up a bike at any of the 40 docking stations around town and are charged $0.10 for each mile, in addition to the fee for the pass.

Food and drink to try in Buffalo

While Buffalo may be best known for its namesake wings, it also boasts a burgeoning cocktail and food scene, with chefs and mixologists constantly pushing the limits of creativity. If you’re more in the mood for comfort food, you’ll find plenty of those places, too, along with loads of restaurants specializing in global cuisine thanks to the city’s strong immigrant community. The West Side Bazaar, an incubator space that supports refugees and low-income entrepreneurs, hosts a number of great ethnic restaurants, serving everything from Malaysian and Burmese to Ethiopian and Puerto Rican fare.

Culture in Buffalo

If you’re going to Buffalo in search of culture, you’ll need to carve out a significant amount of time for exploring. Art enthusiasts should head to the Burchfield Penney Art Center and the Buffalo AKG Art Museum to see works by some of the world’s most celebrated artists, like Gauguin, Matisse, Jackson Pollock, and Andy Warhol. Music lovers can visit the Colored Musicians Club, where greats like Billie Holiday, Miles Davis, and Dizzy Gillespie once played, while architecture fans will want to check out the seven Frank Lloyd Wright buildings throughout town, including the Martin House, Graycliff, and Rowing Boathouse. Year-round, the city also hosts dozens of food, art, and cultural festivals, celebrating everything from chicken wings and local artisans to the Polish Lenten holiday of Dyngus Day.

Can’t miss things to do in Buffalo

Buffalo’s must-see attractions really depend on when you visit. During the summer, you should plan your trip around one of the many outdoor festivals or events, like the Allentown Art Festival, the Elmwood Avenue Festival of the Arts, or Garden Walk—and save time for rock-climbing in grain elevators at RiverWorks. When winter arrives, visitors will want to partake in outdoor activities like sledding and skiing, or check out the local brewery scene. No matter the season, the Martin House and the Buffalo AKG Art Museum are not to be missed. Make sure to also walk a few of the neighborhoods to scope out Buffalo’s world-class architecture, and try to visit as many of the local restaurants and bars as possible.

Practical Information

Due to Buffalo’s close proximity to Niagara Falls (about 25 minutes by car) and Canada (less than a 10-minute drive), it’s a good idea to bring along your passport when visiting, in case you decide to do a day trip to the falls or the Niagara Wine Region.

Guide Editor

Born and raised in Buffalo and currently residing in Jersey City, Sean Flynn is a freelance writer, editor, and photographer. His work has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Departures, and the New York Times, among others. When he’s not writing about culture, travel, and food, he’s busy trying out recipes at home with his wife, Melissa, and wrangling his toddler daughter and newborn twin girls. Follow his travels on Instagram @TravelingNewYorker.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Historic restorations, repurposed structures, and a hotel in an old psych ward have helped make the City of Good Neighbors an increasingly exciting place to visit.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Housed in a cottage in Elmwood Village, Bureau offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure clothing for the stylish man. Here, guys can shop for everything from dress shirts and sweaters to jackets and pocket squares, or schedule a fitting with a seasoned tailor to create a custom piece. While similar shops tend to offer clothing and services at an unattainable price point, the owners at Bureau welcome clients on a budget and work hard to maintain a friendly, approachable shopping environment.
Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1903 for a wealthy businessman, the Martin House is one of Buffalo’s architectural masterpieces. Situated in the beautiful Parkside neighborhood, it stands out among the restored Victorian homes and canopy of old-growth trees for its Prairie house style, complete with strong horizontal lines, deeply overhanging eaves, and a sheltering, cantilevered roof. A pergola connects the home to a conservatory and carriage house with chauffeur’s quarters and stables, while a smaller residence and gardener’s cottage sit nearby. Over the decades, the complex suffered considerable damage and three of the original five buildings were destroyed, but in 1992, the Martin House Restoration Corporation was formed to raise funds and oversee a complete restoration.

Extensive reconstruction efforts began in 1997 and are ongoing today, but visitors can now experience the property on a variety of tours. Choose from one- and two-hour options to see details like Wright-designed furniture, art glass, and light fixtures, or pick a themed tour like the Twilight, Photography+, or Wright Night. Either way, save time to check out the conservatory, anchored by a stunning replica of the Nike of Samothrace statue.
Housed in an elegant Victorian building, this bohemian coffee house sits in the heart of the Grant Street corridor—one of Buffalo’s most diverse neighborhoods, with a community of immigrants, scholars, and artists. Since opening in 2008, it’s been a driving force in encouraging new businesses to put down roots in the area, proving that if you build it, they will come. Here, guests can grab a table outside with their café au lait and freshly baked pastry and take in the sights and sounds of Buffalo’s West Side. Should you be looking for something more substantial, however, head next door to owner Prish Moran’s newest project, The Tabernacle, where you can indulge in everything from Spanish to Irish cuisine in a kaleidoscope-like space filled with Renaissance paintings, Space Age murals, and bright pops of color.
Billy Club opened in Allentown toward the end of 2015 in a formerly boarded-up apartment building turned contemporary hideaway. From the start, owners Dan Hagen and Jake Strawser focused on cocktails, in part inspired by the speakeasy that operated out of the building during Prohibition. Drinks here are creative and delicious, made with top-notch spirits and local ingredients. There’s also a strong focus on whiskey, as well as a full food menu with dishes like house-made pasta, whole trout, and aged duck breast with figs. While you should definitely try one of the whiskey cocktails, you should also visit during Sunday brunch for the Bloody Mary—it’s one of the best in Buffalo.
If you find yourself at Founding Fathers Pub, you should know it’s going to be a late night. Open since 1968, the hole-in-the-wall tavern is a local favorite, but generally flies under the radar of travelers visiting the area. It’s the type of no-frills spot where you meet old friends to catch up, or get quizzed on Buffalo’s rich history by owner and former social studies teacher Mike Driscoll, who decked out the space in presidential memorabilia. Grab a seat at the bar and strike up conversation, then order a pint or two to pair with the free popcorn and nachos served nightly.
Located in Buffalo’s booming Theatre District, Buffalo Proper is a great place to stop before or after a show. Guests can look forward to nearly 30 specialty cocktails, plus seasoned bartenders ready to mix all the classics. Favorites include the BFLO Bramble (vodka, blackberries, mint, lemon) and the Bare Knuckle Boxer (whiskey, lemon, honey, and strawberry), but there’s also beer and wine should cocktails not be your thing. While the two-story, lofted space is massive, it fills up quickly on weekends, so go early to secure your spot at the bar or one of the high-top tables. Then, put in an order for your favorite drink, along with elevated bar fare like Japanese-style fried chicken, white bean burgers, and grits with crème fraîche and cheddar.
While Lloyd may be best known for its inventive Mexican fare, it’s also one of the most forward-thinking cocktail spots in Buffalo. What started as a food truck catering to the business lunch and weekend festival crowds became a North Buffalo staple when it opened its first brick-and-mortar location on Hertel Avenue in late 2015. Today, it continues to be a go-to for classic cocktails like margaritas and palomas, made with fresh ingredients and quality spirits. The mezcal drinks are delicious, especially the Green Hornet (mezcal, honey simple syrup, spicy tomatillo shrub, lemon, cucumber), but if you’re not into smoky spirits, try the Midsummer’s Daydream (rum, strawberry-peppercorn shrub, aloe liqueur, lemon, pineapple, rosé).
Among the small shops and restaurants that line Elmwood Avenue, Thin Man Brewery stands out in more ways than one. In a literal sense, its second-floor balcony extends over the street, offering guests the perfect place to sip pints in the sun. More figuratively, its beer selection is among the best in the city, with more than two dozen brews on tap, including the Prairie Paradise (a coconut-and-vanilla imperial stout from Prairie Artisan Ales in Oklahoma) and the Taras Boulba (a pale ale straight from Belgium). Thin Man also brews a few of its own beers on-site—if they have it, be sure to try the Pills Mafia pilsner. Since opening in 2016, the brewery has become so popular that there is now a second location in Black Rock, in a collaborative space with Tappo Pizza.
When Downtown’s Big Ditch opened in a converted garage in 2014, it helped turn a formerly sterile area into a hot spot for locals. Today, it continues to draw fans with a range of pints brewed in-house, plus a two-level taproom with seating for 200 and garage doors that open onto the sidewalks. Anywhere from six to 12 beers are on tap at a given time, with options ranging from IPAs and saisons to stouts and ales. If it’s available, be sure to try the Make Me Want to Stout—a coffee-and-cream brew that’s one of Big Ditch’s most popular offerings.
Opened in 1963, Gene McCarthy’s is a Buffalo institution. Nestled in the shadows of towering grain silos next to long-abandoned railway tracks, it’s a snapshot of the city as it once was, done up in pub tables, Irish tchotchkes, and photos of favorite locals. While not much has changed in the past five decades, the tavern did switch hands in 2012, and new owners Bill Metzger and Matt Conron decided to expand the business by adding a brewery. Now, Old First Ward Brewing Company produces more than 40 different beers on-site, then offers some on tap in Gene’s. The whole operation is the opposite of flashy, but it’s exactly what you want from a Buffalo dive bar. Visit in summer and you can even sip your suds in the seasonal beer garden, which features live music every Saturday night starting at 7 p.m.