Buffalo

Buffalo has flown under the radar for far too long. With unparalleled architecture, world-class museums and art galleries, inventive restaurants and cocktail bars, traditional pubs on nearly every street corner, and art and food festivals celebrating diverse local communities, the City of Good Neighbors is more than worth a visit. While most may associate Buffalo with chilly winters and delicious pub food—which wouldn’t necessarily be wrong—there’s so much more going on here.

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Photo by Open Tours LLC/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Buffalo?

Buffalo is one of those lucky places that experiences each season to the extreme. Winter brings blankets of thick white snow, while spring offers a break from freezing temperatures and the chance to get outside and explore Buffalo’s Frederick Law Olmsted–designed parks. In the summer, you can look forward to lush greenery and 80-degree days, perfect for strolling the Queen City’s historic neighborhoods during a local festival. Come fall, the city’s domineering oak and maple trees light up the streets with vibrant colors that make for great photo opportunities.

Should you feel inclined to avoid Buffalo during the winter months, know that locals embrace the colder temperatures with outdoor activities like snowboarding, skiing, and sledding. Each year, Labatt Blue even hosts a four-day pond hockey tournament at RiverWorks. Winter is also a great time to check out Buffalo’s food scene, as you have a better chance of snagging a table without a reservation.

How to get around Buffalo

Buffalo Niagara International Airport is about 10 miles from downtown. While there are a host of private taxi services available curbside, your best bet is to take an Uber or Lyft for about $20. The city also has a metro rail that runs the length of Main Street, starting at the University of Buffalo South Campus and continuing through the Theatre District and Downtown to Canalside.

Neighborhoods like Allentown, Elmwood Village, and Hertel Avenue in North Buffalo are quite walkable, but because of the city’s sprawl, you’ll want a car to travel between areas. For those seeking a more scenic experience, there’s Reddy Bikeshare, which starts at $3 for a two-day pass. Riders can pick up a bike at any of the 40 docking stations around town and are charged $0.10 for each mile, in addition to the fee for the pass.

Food and drink to try in Buffalo

While Buffalo may be best known for its namesake wings, it also boasts a burgeoning cocktail and food scene, with chefs and mixologists constantly pushing the limits of creativity. If you’re more in the mood for comfort food, you’ll find plenty of those places, too, along with loads of restaurants specializing in global cuisine thanks to the city’s strong immigrant community. The West Side Bazaar, an incubator space that supports refugees and low-income entrepreneurs, hosts a number of great ethnic restaurants, serving everything from Malaysian and Burmese to Ethiopian and Puerto Rican fare.

Culture in Buffalo

If you’re going to Buffalo in search of culture, you’ll need to carve out a significant amount of time for exploring. Art enthusiasts should head to the Burchfield Penney Art Center and the Buffalo AKG Art Museum to see works by some of the world’s most celebrated artists, like Gauguin, Matisse, Jackson Pollock, and Andy Warhol. Music lovers can visit the Colored Musicians Club, where greats like Billie Holiday, Miles Davis, and Dizzy Gillespie once played, while architecture fans will want to check out the seven Frank Lloyd Wright buildings throughout town, including the Martin House, Graycliff, and Rowing Boathouse. Year-round, the city also hosts dozens of food, art, and cultural festivals, celebrating everything from chicken wings and local artisans to the Polish Lenten holiday of Dyngus Day.

Can’t miss things to do in Buffalo

Buffalo’s must-see attractions really depend on when you visit. During the summer, you should plan your trip around one of the many outdoor festivals or events, like the Allentown Art Festival, the Elmwood Avenue Festival of the Arts, or Garden Walk—and save time for rock-climbing in grain elevators at RiverWorks. When winter arrives, visitors will want to partake in outdoor activities like sledding and skiing, or check out the local brewery scene. No matter the season, the Martin House and the Buffalo AKG Art Museum are not to be missed. Make sure to also walk a few of the neighborhoods to scope out Buffalo’s world-class architecture, and try to visit as many of the local restaurants and bars as possible.

Practical Information

Due to Buffalo’s close proximity to Niagara Falls (about 25 minutes by car) and Canada (less than a 10-minute drive), it’s a good idea to bring along your passport when visiting, in case you decide to do a day trip to the falls or the Niagara Wine Region.

Guide Editor

Born and raised in Buffalo and currently residing in Jersey City, Sean Flynn is a freelance writer, editor, and photographer. His work has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Departures, and the New York Times, among others. When he’s not writing about culture, travel, and food, he’s busy trying out recipes at home with his wife, Melissa, and wrangling his toddler daughter and newborn twin girls. Follow his travels on Instagram @TravelingNewYorker.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Located on Buffalo’s West Side, this farm-to-table favorite comes courtesy of award-winning chefs Steve and Ellen Gedra. Here, the menu changes daily to highlight locally sourced produce and sustainably raised meat, so diners are guaranteed something new every time they visit. Dishes are simple and straightforward to let their ingredients shine, while cocktails incorporate unique spirits like lavender gin and bacon-washed bourbon. Go for dinner and pair the vegetable lasagna with a classic manhattan, or swing by at brunch for the BS Griddle sandwich, featuring eggs, cheese, hash browns, and your choice of bacon or sausage sandwiched between two pancakes.
Before opening Craving Restaurant in 2013, chef Adam Goetz worked everywhere from the James Beard House to the Waldorf Astoria in New York City. Now, he puts his talents to good use in North Buffalo, combining fresh ingredients with highly skilled technique to make the food diners crave. Open for lunch and dinner six nights a week and brunch on Sundays, Craving serves farm-to-table fare in a cozy setting, complete with a small bar and a patio out front. Dishes can be made vegetarian or gluten-free and the chef butchers all meats in-house to ensure nothing gets wasted. The menu changes constantly to highlight the freshest ingredients possible, but recent dishes included ricotta gnocchi, leg of lamb, and whole-roasted trout with asparagus sauce.
Located in Allentown, down a quiet, tree-lined street, Betty’s is the perfect spot if you’re searching for simple, comforting fare. While the restaurant is open for all three meals, breakfast takes top honors—the Luv Sandwich (a toasted bagel with bacon, cream cheese, pickled onions, sprouts, and tomatoes) is simply the most delicious way to start the day in Buffalo. During the warmer months, guests can grab a table outdoors and people-watch while they eat. The restaurant’s residential location is ideal, as it’s away from the noise but still immersed in the neighborhood atmosphere.
Opened in 2015, Marble + Rye was one of the first restaurants in Buffalo to offer artfully crafted cocktails—something the city was sorely missing. With a focus on whiskey and creative ingredients, the spot became a fast favorite, serving drinks like the Fantastic Man (bourbon, Averna, coffee-infused Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Aperol, and orange marmalade) alongside New American cuisine. Made from scratch with local, seasonal ingredients, dishes here are often cooked with a Mexican plancha or wood-fired oven for added flair. Don’t miss the pastured chicken with wood-roasted seasonal vegetables, and the patatas bravas with spicy tomato sauce and roasted garlic aioli.
With its exposed brick walls, small tables, and inventive Japanese fare, this Elmwood Village sushi spot is a restaurant you’d expect to find in Brooklyn rather than Buffalo. Still, chef Kuni Sato has run the local favorite since 1996, serving everything from traditional sushi and sashimi to daily specials with a modern twist. Don’t miss the Kuni’s Fried Chicken (chicken breast marinated in ginger and soy sauce, then deep-fried until perfectly crispy) or the impressive sake collection, imported directly from Japan. Guests can either grab a table, eat at the sushi counter, or belly up to the bar, but act fast when space opens up because this place is typically packed.
When Hydraulic Hearth burst on the scene in 2014, in the recently revitalized Larkin District, it was met with a litany of praise for its wood-fired pizzas and expert cocktails. Since then, it’s maintained rave reviews by keeping things simple, with a concise menu of just a dozen pies and a bar program that focuses on fresh ingredients. Go for unique pizzas like the Spring Onion with herb-oil crust, smoked Polish sausage, and mozzarella, and stay for drinks like the perfectly balanced Why Am I Mr. Pink, made with Scotch, blueberry, lemon, cinnamon, and eucalyptus. Should you be more of a beer person, know that, in addition to three rotating guest taps, the restaurant partners with local brewery Community Beer Works to brew eight different beers in-house.
Until Toutant opened in 2015, Buffalonians were hard-pressed to find any quality Southern food in their hometown. But now, when the craving for buttermilk fried chicken hits, they head to this Downtown spot, where chef James Robert combines his Louisiana roots with a passion for seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. A bit more refined than your everyday barbecue joint, Toutant is housed in a three-story, industrial-chic space, complete with a long bar for sipping craft beers, classic cocktails, and vast selection of whiskeys. While dinner brings such delicious dishes as house-smoked sausage, pan-fried cornmeal catfish, and traditional Creole jambalaya, brunch is the real winner here. The biscuits with two fried eggs and sausage gravy are hands down the best above the Mason-Dixon Line.
Opened in 2016, The Dapper Goose stands out in meat-loving Buffalo with a menu that highlights locally sourced produce. Divided into small and large plates, dishes range from beetroot tartine with horseradish cream cheese and crispy chickpeas, to fettuccine with mushroom Bolognese and bread crumbs. The menu isn’t entirely vegetarian, however, and options like the pork shoulder and confit duck are exceedingly popular. On Sundays, there’s a limited brunch menu with such creative fare as pork terrine, crab toast, and chicken wings with fish sauce caramel.
A Buffalo mainstay, Chef’s has been serving heaping plates of spaghetti since 1923. Situated on the outskirts of Downtown, the Italian spot offers homestyle fare that works for everything from family gatherings to romantic date nights. Favorites include the stuffed shells, veal scaloppini with spaghetti, and chicken broccoli Alfredo with fettuccine, but the dish that made Chef’s famous is the spaghetti Parmesan—a mess of noodles smothered in cheese and broiled to perfection. Due to its popularity with locals and expat Buffalonians, the restaurant can get pretty packed, so it’s best to make a reservation in advance (especially on the weekends).
Situated on the northern end of Delaware Park, the Buffalo Zoo offers family-friendly fun for warm summer days. Built in 1975, it’s the third-oldest zoo in the country, but the facilities have been updated over the years to provide spacious habitats for the resident animals. The underground sea lion exhibit and Rainforest Falls are favorites, as they allow visitors to get close—but not too close—to the animals. Also be sure to catch a glimpse of the giraffes enjoying the sunshine from their street-side enclosure. To avoid crowds, arrive early in the day—the place can get packed, especially on nice days.