Telluride

A six-hour drive—or quick flight—from Denver, Telluride has all the charm of a Colorado resort town (jaw-dropping mountain peaks, a cinematic 19th-century main street) yet feels comparatively undiscovered. The former Wild West mining town of just over 2,000 residents is full of citified lures like breweries and boutiques, but the mountains beyond are as wild as they come, with postcard-worthy hiking trails and multiple waterfalls. In fact, the area’s original inhabitants, the Ute Indians, once called their home the “Valley of Hanging Waterfalls.”

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Photo by Craig Zerbe/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Telluride?

Famous for its skiing, Telluride sheds its humble façade each winter to become the world-class mountain destination that visitors know and love. The town is arguably even more fun in summer, however, when its mountains are cloaked in verdant wildflowers and the average high temperature is a balmy 75 degrees. While spring and fall are less popular, they can be worthy times to visit for locals-only streets and rock-bottom hotel prices. Telluride also plays hosts to several festivals worth planning a trip around, from the Mountainfilm Festival (May) and the Telluride Film Festival (Labor Day Weekend) to the Telluride Blues & Brews Festival (mid-September).

How to get around Telluride

Some visitors make the six-hour drive from Denver, but year-round daily flights direct to Telluride’s Montrose Regional Airport are available from Denver International and Dallas Fort-Worth International airports. During the busy ski and summer seasons, you can also find regular direct flights from New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Houston, Phoenix, Salt Lake City, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. The airport is a 90-minute drive from Telluride proper but, once there, you can stroll practically everywhere on your own two feet—the town’s charming historic district is just six blocks wide and twelve long.

Can’t miss things to do in Telluride

You’d be remiss to leave Telluride without stopping by the town’s Wild West hot spots—after all, this is where Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank back in 1889. Grab a whiskey on the rocks at the New Sheridan Hotel’s Historic Bar, built in 1885, and check out “ye olde” displays (like a thousand-year-old Anasazi blanket) at the Telluride Historical Museum, housed in a former hospital from 1896. If you’re visiting in summer, hiking to the glass-clear Alta Lakes is practically required and guaranteed to get some Instagram likes.

Food and drink to try in Telluride

While exhausted hikers and skiers alike find comfort in Telluride’s microbrews and macro burgers, there’s so much more to the town’s food scene than all-American classics. Tuck in to the perfect pra ram stir-fry cooked by Thai expat chefs at Siam Telluride; try the pizza that took home top prize at Italy’s Pizza World Championship at Brown Dog Pizza; and even take a cooking class with chef Eliza Gavin from Top Chef: Season 10 at her restaurant 221 South Oak. For a special night out, the mountaintop Allred’s Restaurant, accessible by gondola, offers an eagle’s-eye view of the valley.

Culture in Telluride

Creative pursuits can take the back seat in outdoorsy towns like this one, yet Telluride’s art scene is burgeoning, thanks in large part to the work of Telluride Arts. Around since 1971, the organization works to develop the town’s creative pulse and maintains the innovative Gallery 81435, named for the local zip code. Another spot not to miss is the Telluride Gallery of Fine Art, where you’ll find necklaces made of LEGOs by San Francisco’s Emiko Oye.

For Families

Disneyland can wait. For our money, there are few more rewarding family destinations than this one, with its multitude of natural wonders and kid-geared delights. Here, families can search for fairies on the back of a horse-turned-unicorn (with Telluride Academy), or even take a sleigh ride to a sunset dinner in a tent (with Telluride Wagons and Sleighs).

Local travel tips for Telluride

Book your accommodations well in advance (occupancy rates often hit 100 percent, especially around the holidays). As anywhere in Colorado, you should also prepare for mountain weather when you leave your hotel— it can be 75 and sunny during the day, and cool and crisp in the evening. Layers are essential.

Guide Editor

Kathryn O’Shea-Evans is a Colorado-based writer with bylines in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Travel + Leisure, and many other outlets. Read more of her work at kathrynosheaevans.com or follow her on Instagram at @kathrynosheaevans.

Updated January 2019.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
At these new (and newly renovated) inns, the morning repast is worth waking up for.
HOTELS
Don’t miss these new and newly renovated hotels when you hit the slopes this year.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
With everything from a fine art gallery to a marijuana dispensary to a secret source for antique guitars, Telluride is home to a vibrant shopping scene. When you’re ready to hunt for souvenirs, head downtown to browse books, home décor, cashmere sweaters, and more.
Telluride wouldn’t be a ski town without a great après scene. Its bars go far beyond dives, however, ranging from a historic watering hole to a modern-day speakeasy to a distillery making its own peppermint schnapps.
After a full day of skiing or hiking, nothing sounds more appealing than a spa treatment. Thankfully, Telluride offers plenty of places for pampering, from lavish resorts with hot springs to luxurious spas offering massages, facials, and more.
A Telluride favorite since 1978, Last Dollar Saloon is renowned for two things: $5 margaritas (made with agave tequila and served in a pint glass) and an eclectic selection of beers from all over the world (more than 60 at last count). Start your evening on the right note at the bar’s popular happy hour, which goes from 3 to 5 p.m. and includes four Telluride Brewing Company beers for just $4 each.
If you think a store that revolves around lovely wall hooks is made for a larger city, you’d be wrong. Hook is full of precisely the sweet, homey ephemera that gives Telluride its small-town charm. Much of the merchandise here will fit in your carry-on, from a bottle opener shaped like a growling bear, to sea-salt-and-sage candles and, of course, hooks in every shape and size—the ones decorated with vintage-looking ski signs make for particularly great souvenirs.
Overlooking the San Miguel River and trail, Camel’s Garden sits right at the base of the gondola connecting Telluride with Mountain Village, just a few short blocks from Main Street. In addition to a convenient location, the hotel offers several complimentary niceties, including continental breakfast, wine and cheese in the winter, ski valet and storage, and heated underground parking—all of which make getting to the slopes easier, faster, and more pleasant. There’s also Oak, a full-service restaurant and bar beloved for its Southern-style ribs, and the award-winning Atmosphere Day Spa, which features a 25-foot hot tub with stunning mountain views.

Standard rooms are spacious at 385 square feet, while deluxe rooms include a sitting area and wet bar. No matter which you choose, you’ll enjoy a fireplace, balcony, and large soaking tub to soothe post-ski muscles. If you’re traveling with a large family or group, however, opt for one of the condos, which feature separate living areas, washers and dryers, and top-of-the-line kitchens with Sub Zero and Viking appliances.
A beloved member of Telluride’s nightlife scene for more than two decades, Smuggler’s Brew Pub shows no signs of slowing down. The restaurant has won multiple awards at the Great American Beer Festival with its classically styled lagers, seasonal suds, and experimental beers, all brewed on-site. Stop by the downtown hotspot and pair a burger with brews like the German-style Marzen and the Fallen from Grace, which takes cues from the Trappist breweries of Belgium. If you’d rather have a cocktail, Smuggler’s also has an extensive “fire water” selection, plus house-made juices, bitters, and teas. Try the Defibrillator, made with cold brew coffee, Italian chocolate liqueur, Irish cream, and Ketel One vodka.
Flights through Aspen are being affected by the Lake Christine Fire that broke out July 3.
The Hotel Telluride is close to town and the slopes but just removed enough from the action to feel like a tranquil mountain getaway. Here, the warm lobby welcomes guests with a large fireplace, comfy couches, and board games, as well as a dedicated check-in area for pets, who are allowed for a small fee and treated to house-made biscuits. Rooms have kitchenettes, private balconies, and humidifiers to combat the dry mountain air, while suites feature separate living and dining areas. It’s been said that The Hotel Telluride also boasts the most comfortable bed in town, triple-sheeted with custom-made linens.

The small, on-site restaurant, West End Bistro, serves a hot breakfast and simple dinner items like kale-and-quinoa salad and Colorado beef burgers—plus freshly baked chocolate chip cookies for an après-ski treat. Guests also have access to a sun deck with hot tubs and outdoor saunas as well as free cruiser bikes and shuttle service to the gondola and downtown Telluride. If desired, the hotel can even arrange for in-room massages or guided day trips to forage for wild mushrooms.
Located less than a half-mile from the gondola, Mountain Lodge offers ski-in, ski-out access, gorgeous mountain views, and top-notch amenities like an outdoor heated pool that stays open year-round. Also on-site is the View Bar & Grill, which features a giant stone fireplace and 30-foot windows for taking in the scenery as well as comforting pub fare and a daily happy hour that coincides nicely with après-ski. Most accommodations are apartment-style, ranging from junior suites to luxurious four-bedroom cabins with full kitchens, fireplaces, and private balconies. Budget travelers might book a lodge room, which is smaller—there’s no sitting area or balcony—but still offers access to all the lodge’s services, like grocery shopping, equipment rentals, and shuttles to the gondola. A resort fee covers Internet but not parking, however, the $20 valet charge can be a bargain in peak season when public spaces are hard to find.