Seoul

South Korea’s capital city is a living, breathing mashup of history and modernity. Centuries-old courtyards hug the roots of brand-new high-rises, and traditional teashops vie with Starbucks for customers. You’ll find this contrast everywhere: from the glitz and glamour of the Gangnam district (which the world now knows thanks to Korean pop star Psy’s massive hit song “Gangnam Style”) to the grand, tranquil palaces of the Jongno area. The dynamic capital burgeons with inventive restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. Having rebuilt after the Korean War and hosted the world for the 1988 Summer Olympics, Seoul has now emerged as one of eastern Asia’s most vibrant cities.

SEOUL, KOREA - DECEMBER 31, 2016 -    Colorful billboards on the street of Seoul

Photo By DiegoMariottini/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Seoul?

Seoul’s humid subtropical climate has four distinct seasons, and there is no official off-season. Some say that the city is at its best in the spring when cherry blossoms bloom, while others prefer fall, when leaves turn into a fiery mass of red, gold, and brown. Winters can be brutal, but they lend the capital city a whitewashed beauty. Summer temperatures often rise into the 90s, with rain falling during the late-summer typhoon period. No matter when you visit, however, there’s plenty to do both indoors and out.

How to get around Seoul

Incheon International Airport is located in the city of Incheon, about 50 miles from downtown Seoul. The fastest way to Seoul is via the Airport Railroad Express train: It’s a bargain, at under $10, and you’ll be in the heart of Seoul in precisely 43 minutes. Buses (also $10) and taxis (at least $70) are available as well, if you are prepared to battle Seoul’s legendary traffic.

The Seoul subway is vast, yet easy to navigate. You pay by distance, and most rides cost between $1 and $2. Aboveground buses roll to every corner of the city for prices that range between $.75 and $2, depending on the route. It’s easy to find taxis waiting on every corner.

Tip: When hailing a taxi on the street, it’s more polite to flag it with your hand facing down, not up. Seoul is well connected to the rest of South Korea with excellent transportation options including high-speed trains.

Can’t miss things to do in Seoul

The N Seoul Tower rises from atop Namsan Mountain in the center of the city. Look for it to get your geographical bearings, or better yet, take the cable car to the top to get 360-degree views—on a clear day, you can see all the way to North Korea.

Food and drink to try in Seoul

Until relatively recently, it was unusual to find anything but strictly Korean fare in Seoul. While thousands of authentic Korean restaurants continue to serve up staples such as kimchi, galbi, and bibimbap, it has become easier to find Mexican, Italian, Indian, and Thai options as well. Street food is available on practically every corner, and you can fill your belly with dumplings, rice cakes, or deep-fried veggies for less than $5.

When it comes to drinks, cocktails and wine are growing in popularity but soju (a vodka-like distilled rice liquor) and beer rule. And did we mention that Seoulites love coffee? Every street is now peppered with cafes, from huge chains like Angel-in-Us to small independent shops.

Culture in Seoul

Seoul offers classic beauty in the form of countless palaces, courtyards, and other royal property that has survived the city’s modernization process. The city’s energetic art, fashion, design, and architecture scenes earned it a UNESCO World Design Capital designation in 2010, and you’ll encounter contemporary culture in galleries, boutiques, and public art installations.

Korea is a country that celebrates tradition, and the numerous local festivals are a testament to the people’s immense national pride. The Fireworks Festival lights up the sky over the Han River in October and the Lantern Festival brings a gorgeous glow to the banks of Cheonggyecheon Stream in November, but no matter when you go, your visit will likely coincide with some sort of celebration. In addition to classic and historic culture, Seoul is known for its style, boy bands, and a quickly shifting pop culture. Dip your toe into the scene with a Seoul Night Tour in Hip Hongdae from AFAR’s walking tour partner, Context.

Local travel tips for Seoul

Navigating your way through Korea, with it’s challenging-to-decipher Hangul alphabet, can be daunting. Fortunately, most signs in Seoul are also written in English, and many locals will be eager to help you find your way and practice their English. Visitors, remember this phone number: 1330. It’s the English-speaking tourist help line. The operators will help you with whatever you need, be it train schedules or directions to the nearest movie theater. Don’t hesitate to call day or night, no matter how silly you think your question is. They’ve heard it all.

Guide Editor

Leslie Patrick is a freelance writer who splits her time between South Korea and a nomadic life of slow traveling around the globe. Leslie writes about travel, culture and lifestyle, and her work has been published in Salon, Marie Claire (UK and Australia editions), Islands, Travel + Leisure, Monocle, United Airlines’ Hemispheres Magazine and various English language publications in Korea.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Buddhist temples and grand palaces meet neon skylines in Seoul. The city’s hotels are just as varied, ranging from design properties with no-fuss amenities to over-the-top luxury resorts with Michelin-starred cuisine. Here are some of the highlights.
With everything from street food to Michelin-starred cuisine, Seoul boasts an extensive culinary scene. Be sure to sample specialties like bulgogi (barbecued meat), japchae (stir-fried noodles), and comforting soups, all served with kimchi.
Want to know your bibimbap from your banchan? Our primer to classic Korean dishes, sides, sauces, and tipples can get you acquainted with this popular cuisine.
When most people think of Korean cuisine, the first food that comes to mind is usually kimchi. In addition to being the country’s national dish, the spicy, fermented vegetable condiment has been shown to contain many health benefits. Learn even more about it at Museum Kimchikan, located in Insadong. Fun for children and adults alike, the museum features interactive exhibits about the history and process of making kimchi, culminating in a little tasting room with several varieties to sample. The small entrance fee includes an audio guide and complimentary hanboks (traditional Korean clothes) to wear inside the facility. If you plan to visit on a Wednesday or Thursday, secure advance reservations for a kimchi-making class.
Korean Air’s innovative “farm-to-flight” program features food grown on the airline’s very own farm.
Located in the midst of a raucous university district, BAR d.still is a haven for cocktail connoisseurs. The swanky spot, consistently at the forefront of Seoul’s mixology scene, boasts several awards for being one of the top bars in the city—and Asia at large. Hidden in an unmarked space down a Hongdae alley, it’s well worth the effort to find it. Inside, skilled bartenders make drinks with seasonal ingredients and will customize libations to patrons’ requests. The bar also stocks an extensive selection of whiskeys from around the world and is known for its mean martini.
It all started when a Korean couple went on a craft beer trip to the US for their honeymoon, and became enchanted with the sleek, industrial-chic bar in San Francisco. When they returned to Seoul, it was only a matter of time before they decided to open a Mikkeller Bar of their own. With a simple and distinct Scandinavian design, combined with distinctly Korean touches, the Mikkeller Bar Seoul joins the growing global brand that proffers craft beers from over 30 different countries worldwide. Grab a sidewalk stool, order a frosty glass and watch the world go by. 33 Dosan-daero 17-gil, Gangnam-gu
Not only is the Express Bus Terminal a major transportation hub, it’s also the site of Seoul’s largest underground shopping mall. Attached to the subway station, Goto Mall sprawls for a half-mile and houses more than 600 stores. When visiting, wear comfortable shoes and prepare for a shopping spree. The west end of the mall is a haven for savvy fashionistas seeking inexpensive but trendy Korean clothing and shoes, while the east end features home goods, furniture, and plant stores. After working up an appetite, head to the corridor in the basement of the luxury department store Shinsegae, where there are several gourmet food stalls.
Constructed in 1910 as the head temple of Korean Buddhism, Jogyesa is a spiritual sanctuary that’s free to the public. Visitors can wander around two 500-year-old trees in the courtyard, then head to the main hall, known as Daeoongjeong, to see three giant golden Buddhas. For a deeper look at monastic life, arrange an overnight temple stay online. Jogyesa is at its most vibrant in May, when it transforms from an oasis to a hub of festivities. The monks hang thousands of colorful lanterns to celebrate Buddha’s birthday, and the temple hosts the Lotus Lantern Festival, which kicks off the famous parade.
There are some things that are universal, including people’s love of a good dive bar. If you’re looking for a low-key vibe with cheap drinks and greasy bar food, look no further than Cuckoo. Set in the trendy Garusogil shopping area, this unfussy bar and restaurant with graphitized walls and a raucous party vibe is often packed with 20-something locals playing Korean drinking games and downing copious amounts of soju. Although it may serve fried beef tripe, clam soup and stir-fried chicken gizzards with garlic, the beer is cheap and cold and that’s something that can be understood in any language. 4, Dosan-daero 17-gil, Gangnam-gu