Seoul

South Korea’s capital city is a living, breathing mashup of history and modernity. Centuries-old courtyards hug the roots of brand-new high-rises, and traditional teashops vie with Starbucks for customers. You’ll find this contrast everywhere: from the glitz and glamour of the Gangnam district (which the world now knows thanks to Korean pop star Psy’s massive hit song “Gangnam Style”) to the grand, tranquil palaces of the Jongno area. The dynamic capital burgeons with inventive restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. Having rebuilt after the Korean War and hosted the world for the 1988 Summer Olympics, Seoul has now emerged as one of eastern Asia’s most vibrant cities.

SEOUL, KOREA - DECEMBER 31, 2016 -    Colorful billboards on the street of Seoul

Photo By DiegoMariottini/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Seoul?

Seoul’s humid subtropical climate has four distinct seasons, and there is no official off-season. Some say that the city is at its best in the spring when cherry blossoms bloom, while others prefer fall, when leaves turn into a fiery mass of red, gold, and brown. Winters can be brutal, but they lend the capital city a whitewashed beauty. Summer temperatures often rise into the 90s, with rain falling during the late-summer typhoon period. No matter when you visit, however, there’s plenty to do both indoors and out.

How to get around Seoul

Incheon International Airport is located in the city of Incheon, about 50 miles from downtown Seoul. The fastest way to Seoul is via the Airport Railroad Express train: It’s a bargain, at under $10, and you’ll be in the heart of Seoul in precisely 43 minutes. Buses (also $10) and taxis (at least $70) are available as well, if you are prepared to battle Seoul’s legendary traffic.

The Seoul subway is vast, yet easy to navigate. You pay by distance, and most rides cost between $1 and $2. Aboveground buses roll to every corner of the city for prices that range between $.75 and $2, depending on the route. It’s easy to find taxis waiting on every corner.

Tip: When hailing a taxi on the street, it’s more polite to flag it with your hand facing down, not up. Seoul is well connected to the rest of South Korea with excellent transportation options including high-speed trains.

Can’t miss things to do in Seoul

The N Seoul Tower rises from atop Namsan Mountain in the center of the city. Look for it to get your geographical bearings, or better yet, take the cable car to the top to get 360-degree views—on a clear day, you can see all the way to North Korea.

Food and drink to try in Seoul

Until relatively recently, it was unusual to find anything but strictly Korean fare in Seoul. While thousands of authentic Korean restaurants continue to serve up staples such as kimchi, galbi, and bibimbap, it has become easier to find Mexican, Italian, Indian, and Thai options as well. Street food is available on practically every corner, and you can fill your belly with dumplings, rice cakes, or deep-fried veggies for less than $5.

When it comes to drinks, cocktails and wine are growing in popularity but soju (a vodka-like distilled rice liquor) and beer rule. And did we mention that Seoulites love coffee? Every street is now peppered with cafes, from huge chains like Angel-in-Us to small independent shops.

Culture in Seoul

Seoul offers classic beauty in the form of countless palaces, courtyards, and other royal property that has survived the city’s modernization process. The city’s energetic art, fashion, design, and architecture scenes earned it a UNESCO World Design Capital designation in 2010, and you’ll encounter contemporary culture in galleries, boutiques, and public art installations.

Korea is a country that celebrates tradition, and the numerous local festivals are a testament to the people’s immense national pride. The Fireworks Festival lights up the sky over the Han River in October and the Lantern Festival brings a gorgeous glow to the banks of Cheonggyecheon Stream in November, but no matter when you go, your visit will likely coincide with some sort of celebration. In addition to classic and historic culture, Seoul is known for its style, boy bands, and a quickly shifting pop culture. Dip your toe into the scene with a Seoul Night Tour in Hip Hongdae from AFAR’s walking tour partner, Context.

Local travel tips for Seoul

Navigating your way through Korea, with it’s challenging-to-decipher Hangul alphabet, can be daunting. Fortunately, most signs in Seoul are also written in English, and many locals will be eager to help you find your way and practice their English. Visitors, remember this phone number: 1330. It’s the English-speaking tourist help line. The operators will help you with whatever you need, be it train schedules or directions to the nearest movie theater. Don’t hesitate to call day or night, no matter how silly you think your question is. They’ve heard it all.

Guide Editor

Leslie Patrick is a freelance writer who splits her time between South Korea and a nomadic life of slow traveling around the globe. Leslie writes about travel, culture and lifestyle, and her work has been published in Salon, Marie Claire (UK and Australia editions), Islands, Travel + Leisure, Monocle, United Airlines’ Hemispheres Magazine and various English language publications in Korea.

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Meant to resemble a hanok (traditional Korean house), this sophisticated bar in the basement of the Park Hyatt is separated into three distinct sections, meant to represent different rooms in the house. Start with some couldn’t-be-fresher sashimi at the sushi and sake bar, then grab a martini at the cocktail bar, followed by a rare single malt at the whiskey bar, all while listening to mood-setting music emanating from the sleek grand piano. There are also vintage champagnes that need to be fitted into the schedule, so save room for some bubbly. 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
For a true Korean drinking experience, look no further than the corner convenience store. From 7-11 and Family Mart, to GS 25 and Buy the Way, the stores have wooden picnic tables or plastic chairs set up outside so patrons can enjoy a frosty Cass or Hite (Korean beer), or a swig of soju (Korean distilled alcohol) while watching the traffic lights of Seoul flash by. It may seem strange, but Korean convenience stores are a prolific part of Seoul’s landscape and the perfect, low-key way to while away a weekend afternoon.
For a fun night out in Seoul, locals know to head to the Hongdae neighborhood for dining, drinks and music…and more drinks. Set near Hongik University, Hongdae is a nightlife lover’s dream, with jolly crowds, flashing lights, and pulsing music, and a great place to start (or finish) the night is in lively Bar Da. With its low lighting and divey feel, Bar Da has developed a reputation as a hip hangout with cheap cocktails and a good atmosphere. There are plenty of restaurants around if you’re hungry, or snack on the dried anchovies Bar Da serves up with your drink.
The speakeasy trend is alive and hopping in Seoul, and you never know behind which nondescript doors on the city’s streets people are stylishly sipping rare single malts or G&Ts. Speakeasy Mortar is one of those mysterious doors, where in-the-know patrons are only allowed to enter after the staff approves them through a peephole. Although the price of drinks is steep (nearly $20 a piece), the whiskey selection, atmosphere, and ambient music are meant for those who truly want to have a classic speakeasy experience. 73-4, Dokseodang-ro,Yongsan-gu
Seoul has been slow to the craft-beer craze due to strict government regulations and taxes. In recent years, however, a small number of new local breweries have been leaving their mark on the city. One such trailblazer is Magpie Brewing Co., opened in 2012. Easily identifiable by its cute bird logo, the brewery has become a favorite of thirsty hipsters and expats for creative beers made with interesting ingredients and balanced flavors. You’ll find both seasonal and flagship beers, ranging from IPAs and pale ales to porters and wheat brews, at the two laid-back locations in Noksapyeong and Hongdae. To complement the beverages, the brewery offers American-style pizza—a food that’s not easily found in Korea.
Well worth the effort it takes to locate this tiny establishment, Flower Gin is a hybrid gin bar and flower shop that feels as though you’ve stumbled into a bygone speakeasy, yet smells like an English country garden. The space is decorated with Alice in Wonderland-esque images, and serves six different cocktails, all created with cucumber-infused Hendrick’s gin. Opt for the classic G&T, or get fancy with an Elderflower Collins or Hot Gun Punch. All are picturesque and served with a delicate pink rose on top. Be sure to say hi to Coco the Boston Terrier, the little mascot that happily greets patrons who are lucky enough make their way in. Kyungnidan 684, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Hansik Olbaan is the place to go in Seoul if you want to try a bit of everything, or just have the appetite to justify hitting a gigantic buffet. Extremely popular with South Korean families, the restaurant doesn’t really care that you don’t speak Korean, so there are no English-language labels and you might not ever figure out exactly what you’re eating. Just grab what looks good—and know this is Korean food, not Korean food for tourists.

Set amidst the quaint hanoks (traditional Korean houses) of tourist favorite Bukchon Hanok Village, this upscale brewery serves a special kind of Korean alcohol that in days gone by was served only to the ruling gentry class. Made with rice and brewed three times, Samhaeju was popular during the Jeseon Dynasty, but production halted when the Japanese colonization of Korea began in 1910. Working to revive this nearly lost traditional beverage, the brewmaster leads tours and shows visitors how this traditional liquor is made. After the tour, it’s tasting time, so come thirsty. Reservations are required and English isn’t spoken—bring an interpreter. 15, Samcheong-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu
Excitable employees hawk two-for-one creams and thrust shopping baskets at unsuspecting passersby, but their annoying antics don’t diminish the fact that Nature Republic is one of Korea’s most popular skin and beauty stores. Purveying candy colored packaging, and everything from snail solution mask sheets to Madagascan baobab tree facial moisturizing mist, Nature Republic prides itself on using all natural ingredients from around the world. In addition to the skincare products, there’s also haircare and makeup. The “Lemon Foot & Nature Peeling Foot Mask” is a not-to-be-missed purchase. 52, Myeongdong 8-gil, Jung-gu
Korean for mixed rice, the simple yet satisfying dish bibimbap was conceived as a way to use leftover side dishes before the New Year started. At locations in busy Myeongdong and Insadong, Gogung specializes in the Korean staple, serving it in a bowl of hot rice covered with seasoned vegetables and tangy gochujang (red chili paste). Diners can top the dish with a fried egg, sliced raw beef, or seafood, then mix all the ingredients together, adding their preferred amount of spice and seasoning. If you want to try Gogung’s signature dish, order the Jeonju Dolsot bibimbap, which comes in a sizzling stone bowl that nicely crisps the bottom layer of rice.