Monaco

The smallest member of the United Nations with a larger-than-life reputation, the Principality of Monaco is a jewel along the sun-drenched French Riviera with the world’s highest gross average income. Taken over by Grimaldis in 1297, SAS Prince Albert II continues the 700-year-old legacy, reigning over a constitutional monarchy from his palace on the strategic Rocher de Monaco (Rock of Monaco) above the sea. It is a fairy-tale princedom where the jet set comes to play with super yachts and luxury cars, alongside an authentic scene of locals savoring the relaxed rhythms of the Côte d’Azur.

Monaco , Monaco - July 9 2008: Seaside view of Mus?e oc?anographique.

Photo By Trygve Finkelsen/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Monaco?

Ensconced on the temperate French Riviera, Monaco never has a bad season. While temperatures drop and rain falls in the winter, there is still plenty going on, without the hordes of cruisers and day-trippers that make it difficult to get around in July and August. There are also huge crowds for the Grand Prix in May and the Yacht Show in September, making April and October the most ideal months to visit.

How to get around Monaco

The principality is a country without an airport. Overseas visitors must fly to Nice, France, then transfer to Monaco by bus, car, taxi, or helicopter. From points within Europe, the French rail system stops at the Monaco Monte Carlo station several times every hour.

Monaco is less than 1 square mile, with only 2.5 kilometers (about a mile and a half) of coastline, so you can walk everywhere, even to France. Facing the Mediterranean, the principality lies exactly where the Alps fall into the sea, making for steep hikes from the shore to the hills above. As an alternative, there are over public 30 elevators, often hidden in parking lots, to ease the pain of the climb. Compagnie des Autobus de Monaco has a 5€ day pass that allows visitors unlimited use of its five bus lines and its solar electric boat service across the Port Hercule.

Food and drink to try in Monaco

The Monegasque kitchen is pure Mediterranean, seasoned by the cuisines of neighboring Nice, Provence, and Italy. Brandamincium is a popular dish of pounded salt cod with garlic and cream. Locals rave about traditional sweet or savory chard pies, and Barbagiuan is a chard-stuffed fritter. A Monaco is beer with 7up and grenadine syrup, but the ultimate Monaco classic would have to be your martini—shaken, not stirred.

Culture in Monaco

Most visits to Monaco include a tour of the Prince’s Palace and the neighboring Monaco Cathedral. The Oceanographic Museum is a must-see, and a night at the Garnier-designed Opera House is always a treat. A highlight of Monaco is the spectacular gardens, including the Exotic, Japanese, and Princess Grace rose gardens. Contemporary art lovers will enjoy the two sites of the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco.

The year begins with an International Circus Festival. Then the Princess Grace Foundation throws the Rose Ball, perhaps the world’s most prestigious fundraising event open to the public. Every May, the city shuts down for the Formula One Grand Prix. In July, the Monte-Carlo International Fireworks Festival explodes, with the Monaco Yacht Show sailing into town in September. November 19 sees celebrations for the National Holiday, which ends with a mass and a palatial wave from the royal family the next day. Year’s end is celebrated with concerts, galas, and parades, with Casino Square filling with revelers to ring in the New Year.

Local travel tips for Monaco

Monte Carlo is one of the principality’s 10 wards. Monégasque is the traditional language, but French is the official language, and most Monegasque speak English. The currency is the euro. Beachwear is forbidden in town, and before heading anywhere chic, check the dress code. Monaco earns much of its revenue from the very wealthy, so security is an important concern. Don’t be surprised to see a lot of Carabinieri, the local police, and remember, jokes about the royal family are not a joke. Should you run into Albert along the way, the proper greeting would be, “Enchanté, votre altesse sérénissime.”

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Set back in a leafy area behind Casino Square and facing the sea, the sprawling, elegant Hotel Hermitage is a slightly less ornate alternative to the glittery fussiness of Hôtel de Paris, though it’s equally steeped in neoclassic grandeur. Many of the rooms and suites feel more contemporary than the hotel’s hand-painted Belle Epoque frescoes and stained-glass winter garden lobby dome designed by Gustave Eiffel. Accommodations range from rooms with clean lines, soft colors, and walnut furnishings to the most sought-after suites, with private terraces and lovely sea views. Because of the hotel’s spaciousness, it’s particularly well suited to families who want a touch of nostalgic glamour along with high-tech plasma screens and other modern amenities. The hotel’s V.I.K. (very important kid) program offers everything from a game room with activities to access to the private beach and pool for children.
This modern 11-story hotel, built on the end of the beachside Larvotto strip, is a chic but unpretentious family-friendly resort that attracts travelers for its prime location and the amicable Mediterranean-style village atmosphere. Guests come for the three restaurants, spa, and two pools (one with an artificial sand-bottom lagoon), plus the Bay Casino, jammed with the latest high-tech slot machines. If guests want to relax, chances are they head to the lounge chairs surrounded by the botanical gardens or head down the road to the Monte-Carlo Beach for water sports. The comfortable, sleek, contemporary-style rooms have dark or blond wood furnishings, duvet-covered beds, plasma-screens TVs, and spacious white bathrooms. Another highlight is the sea-view terraces, with a dreamy vista of the illuminated pool, gardens, and the Sporting d’Eté complex. The highly affordable off-season prices are a deal, considering the Principality’s mild climate is reliably sunny, even during the winter.
Open daily, even on Sundays, the Condamine market is a combination covered and outdoor market where residents come to stock up their larders with regional specialties, local produce, and fish directly from the sea below. Grab a coffee at one of the old-fashioned cafés, or savour the regional “socca” chick pea pancake as you watch the Monegasque go about their daily business—visiting the newsstand, gossiping with neighbors, letting their kids loose in the play area. Photo : Sylvia Sabes
Shopping is a hobby for some of the incredibly rich and maybe famous who sail into Monaco‘s harbor. The Pavillons Monte Carlo is an otherworldly shopping center where Madame can dress from head to toe starting with a tiara! More down to earth luxury budgets may be satisfied at Le Dressing consignment shop. Très design souvenirs can be found in the gift shops at the Nouveau Musée Nationale de Monaco contemporary art museums and the Monaco Yacht Club. Foodies will find their pleasure with the Pavé du Rocher, a sweet available at the official supplier to the Prince, bakery Mullot. Check your change as you go, you may be one of the lucky few to receive a rare Monaco-designed euro. The most modest budgets can have their passport stamped at the tourist office as a free keepsake of their visit. Photo (tiara) : Sylvia Sabes Photo (pavillons) : Palais Princier/ Monte Carlo Société des Bains de Mer
Larvotto is a small stretch of pebbles along the shore, and the country’s only beach. Gathered at Monaco’s extreme eastern border, it is the ideal spot to appreciate the Mediterranean. Paddle boards and kayaks are available for rent, while SkiVol offers inner tubing, water skiing or parasailing. It is a great place to snorkel, but insiders continue walking the Sentier Littoral into Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France, following the pedestrian tunnel under the exclusive 1930’s Monte Carlo Beach Hotel to the tiny public beach and cement jetty, where there are no amenities, but plenty of peace and quiet. Photo : Sylvia Sabes
The Club Bouliste Monégasque hides in plain sight. Occupying a quiet corner on the “Rocher”, near the Oceanographic museum, locals flock to this private bocci ball club for a quiet lunch away from the swarms of tourists. While technically for members only, they have yet to refuse an enthusiastic guest. http://cbmonaco.online.fr/ La Société Nautique, home of the country’s rowing club, is another private sporting club with a restaurant. Nestled in an industrial garage space next to the über prestigious Monaco Yacht Club, the restaurant serves guests simple, yet delicious French food in a completely unique environment. Non-members are asked to pay a €1 supplement. http://www.avironmonaco.com/news Photo : Sylvia Sabes
At five minutes before noon every day, the uniformed Carabiniers du Prince perform a ceremonial changing of the guard in front of Monaco’s palace. Though the royal family still lives in the palace, much of the year there are tours that visit a selection of state apartments, each room dripping with gilt, draped in silk, and decorated with the vast collection of artwork and furniture collected by the House of Grimaldi since it began in 1160. As devoted patrons of the arts, the royal family hosts classical music concerts on the palace grounds every summer. Tickets to see Prince Albert II’s jaw-droppingly impressive collection of antique cars are also available.
In the cool underground, beneath the historic Hôtel de Paris, lies one of Europe’s greatest private wine cellars with over 400,000 bottles from mythical estates Lafite, Cheval Blanc, Yquem, Romanée-Conti as well as more modest houses making perfectly balanced, complex wines. Private visits can be organized to see where Hollywood star Grace Kelly and her Prince Charming celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary, admire the world’s last few bottles of Petrus ’45, and get the inside scoop from one of the many sommeliers who curate this extraordinary collection. For more information, send an email to restaurationhp (at) sbm (dot) mc. Photo : Sylvia Sabes
Take in views of a hot spring–fed waterfall, a dramatic ravine, and the Dead Sea from a resort that sits more than 800 feet below sea level. A cliff-top outdoor restaurant serves organic greens from the garden. Evason Ma’In, (800) 591-7480, from $300. This appeared in the December/January 2010 issue.
From simple hikes to extravagant dinners, Monaco offers a little bit of something for everyone.