Shanghai

Once a tiny fishing village, Shanghai is a thriving metropolitan hub with an incredible history. Here, East meets West, old marries new, and the running joke is that the city is constantly under construction. With a population of nearly 24 million, the various quarters give this mega-city a surprisingly neighborhoodlike feel. The incredible diversity of people is reflected in the richness of the culture, cuisine, and architecture. Shanghai is a city on the go, so before you get swept away in the flow or jostled out of your place in line, be sure to find a spot to slow down, plant your feet, and take it all in.

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Photo Courtesy of Trujillo/Paumier

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Shanghai?

While every season has its charms and challenges, spring and fall are simply stunning. The weather just begs you to come out and stroll around the sun-dappled streets of the former French Concession or find a rooftop perch from which to take in the city. As the weather becomes more unpredictable, it’s wise to check the forecast, but don’t worry, if you get stuck in the middle of a downpour, umbrella sellers have a knack of appearing out of nowhere to peddle rain gear.

How to get around Shanghai

Shanghai has two airports, Pudong and Hongqiao, both of which are now connected by metro (Line 2/Green). When flying into Pudong, you can chop considerable time off your trip downtown by jumping on the maglev and either taking the metro into town from there or grabbing a taxi to your final destination. Buses also run from both airports to various points in the city center at frequent intervals (cost is 12-30 RMB, or less than $5), just check the signs at the airport. Taxis are an easy option, but it helps to have your destination printed in Chinese if you don’t speak any Mandarin.

Shanghai has a fabulous public transportation system, making it quite easy and affordable to traverse the city. Explore Shanghai is a handy way to find stations as well as calculate time and cost. You can pick up a Shanghai Public Transportation Card at the service counter in any metro station for a refundable deposit of 20 RMB. These cards, once topped up, can be used to pay for buses, metro rides, ferries, the maglev, and even taxis, saving you from digging for loose change as you travel. Taxis are also easy to catch and relatively affordable.

Can’t miss things to do in Shanghai

Start the morning off at the Bund. Get there in time to catch the sunrise and stroll along the promenade to see the fan dancers, the backwards walkers, and the groups practicing tai chi. There’s something magical about this waterfront stretch in the mornings. Take in the beauty, the culture, and the history of the city, all while gazing at the growing skyline across the river.

Food and drink to try in Shanghai

A veritable melting pot of cultural influences, the restaurant selection is as diverse and vibrant as the city’s residents. From Michelin star–rated chefs to mom-and-pop, hole-in-the-wall eateries and food carts lining street corners after the sun sets, you can easily eat your way through the city several times over. And while you can dine on authentic Turkish, Russian, or Argentinean feasts, don’t leave the city without sampling China’s various regional cuisines. From sweet to spicy to salty to… well, bizarre, the diversity of the country is reflected in its food, and really, you haven’t experienced China until you’ve tried the stinky tofu. Take a crash course on the classic cuisine of Shanghai cuisine by signing up for a curated meal at at Xiao Baihua, shared with an expert on the topic and set up by AFAR’s partner, Context Tours.

Culture in Shanghai

Check the listings in Smart Shanghai because hardly a day goes by without a show—ballet, theater, art exhibitions, or music. And for a soulful evening as iconically Shanghai as it is global, consider attending one of the nightly Chinese Acrobatic Shows or catching live jazz at the Cotton Club or House of Blues and Jazz.

Along with fabulous music festivals in the spring and late summer (Midi, Strawberry, JZ), Shanghai also has numerous “international” cultural gatherings such as the Shanghai International Fashion Cultural Festival (March 2014), the International Film Festival (June 2014), and the International Fitness Festival (Nov 2104).

Local travel tips for Shanghai

- A few words of Chinese will get you far and are usually always appreciated.
- For your own sanity, avoid the metro at rush hour.
- When at any market, always bargain—always.
- You don’t need to tip in Shanghai.
- Dip your dumplings in vinegar, they’re better that way.

Guide Editor

Christy Campbell is a freelance travel writer and owner of a small branding and communications business, Black Bear Ink. When she’s not exploring new places or getting lost in her backyard, she’s practicing the art of storytelling on Lane Letters.
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The Shanghai Race Club, built by the British in the 1800s, is a lingering reminder that horseraces were once held here, just south of Nanjing Road. Opened to the public in the 1950s, this green refuge charms with landscaped traditional gardens and a reflecting pond with fish and pink lotus blossoms. It’s also a prime spot for people watching. Locals turn up to do tai chi exercises, play cards, and scope out the Marriage Market. Parents hoping to attract a suitable spouse wait under colorful umbrellas pinned with notes listing each child’s age, occupation, family values, and even zodiac sign. Photo by Ira Smirnova.
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Yu Garden is a must-go place in Shanghai, especially you like architecture. It is such a peaceful place to go, even in the rain... This dragon rooftop is inside the Yu (Jade) Garden in Shanghai. The dragon looks toward to the sky, and about to fly into the cloud. The whole body of the dragon last the entire wall.
You wouldn’t know it from walking the streets of Hongkou today, but this Shanghai neighborhood once was home to more than 20,000 Jewish refugees fleeing Nazi-occupied Europe. Shanghai before and during World War II was a safe harbor for European Jews, although by 1943, with the city under Japanese control, most were forced to live in what was called the Restricted Sector for Stateless Refugees, aka the Shanghai Ghetto. The Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum is on the site of the former Ohel Moshe Synagogue, built in 1927 and one of two remaining synagogues in Shanghai (the other is Ohel Rachel in Jing’an). The museum’s exhibits showcase historical artifacts, among them a number of photographs, refugee passports, and copies of the newspaper Shanghai Jewish Chronicle.
One of my highest recommendations for drinks is the Grand Hyatt Shanghai. The Grand Hyatt occupies the top 36 floors of the 88-story Jin Mao Tower in the Jetsons-looking Pudong district, so at sunset (or anytime) you have a stunning view (with no cover charge!) of all of Shanghai. There are lots of choices for eating and drinking in the Grand Hyatt. When I was there at sunset, nobody else was in the Cloud 9 sky lounge (which is like a night club with a 360-degree view from the 87th floor), so I went down to the 53rd-floor Lobby Lounge, which still seemed plenty high, and enjoyed the view and the cocktails there.
Shanghai tailors are the best in the world, says fashion designer Christy Holzer, whose label, Dowry Designs, was inspired by the city. She suggests visiting the South Bund fabric market to order custom garments. DRESS: STALL 308 “A fun style to wear is the qipao [a centuries-old Chinese dress that got its form-fitting shape in the 1920s]. Traditional silk patterns make the garment look old, so request a solid-color silk.” SUIT: STALL 309 “If you want truly exceptional fabric, ask for 100 percent wool. Most of the wool fabrics they have are blends. Specify that they line your suit with 100 percent silk or cotton.” COTTON SHIRT: STALL 310 “Look at the buttons the tailors are planning to use, as they often choose cheap ones. If you don’t like the buttons, stop by a button stall at the market; it will be worth the extra investment.” Illustration by Michael Hoeweler.
One block west of the Bund you can find the Rockbund Art Museum, housed in Shanghai’s former Royal Asiatic Society building (1932). Like many of the grande dame Bund buildings, RAS was dreamt up by British design firm Palmer and Turner and done to the nines in art deco style. The museum hosts its share of heavy hitters from the contemporary art world, such as Zhang Huan, Cai Guo-Qiang, and Felix Gonzalez-Torres. Rockbund is small but charming, especially the tranquil top-floor café and lounge, which give way to a small terrace overlooking the Pudong skyline.
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