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Writer Taffy Brodesser-Akner went to Iceland seeking puffins and peace. Along the way, she learned that the perfect Icelandic adventure is just a dream—but you can, and should, still go in search of it.

One travel editor’s perspective.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent writer Taffy Brodesser-Akner— with 24 hours’ notice—to Switzerland, where she learned a lesson in Swiss serenity.

When you pull into the Pacific coast town of Tofino, you leave behind the Canada you thought you knew.

Wandering Chef: David Bazirgan in New England

Overview

One day, I dragged my travel companions—a German, a Turk, and two New Yorkers—to Kadıköy, a neighborhood on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, to dine at Çiya. Everyone was cranky and hungry by the time we found it, but I knew the second we walked in, the trek was worth it. The chef, Musa Daðdeviren, comes from eastern Turkey, and his dishes reflect the diverse traditions of the region. We shared many small plates we picked from the counters at the front: fresh salads flavored with seeds and unusual herbs, stewed beans, perfectly tender eggplant, Turkish meatballs, and hot pide bread. For dessert, we tried candied pumpkin, which had a taffy-like texture like nothing I’ve ever tasted. I could eat there every day.

“Yeot...what?” The closest approximation in English for one of Korea’s favorite street-sweets might be “taffy.” It ranges from sticky-soft all the way to jaw-breaker-hard. Traditional vendors announce their confectionery presence by loudly and rhythmically clanging the chisel-shears needed to divvy up the gooey mass into sellable sections. Malt syrup from various grains can be transformed into yeot; the giant amber slab I saw on this cart was ginger-flavored, and the other offering was made from pumpkin, a specialty of Ulleung-do island, Korea’s windswept volcanic outpost in the Sea of Japan. As a child I would listen to my mother talk about the sound of these taffy sellers passing in the streets. Years later, how fun to introduce my wife to the actual taste on the streets of Seoul! Here in the Insa-dong district, the city’s old and young elbow their way among visitors. Souvenir stalls may beckon, but the timeless tastes of home are even more tempting. Locals along with tourists keep Insa-dong alive year-round. To pronounce “yeot:" think “yum,” then just put a “T” on the end. To get here: subway line 3, exit Anguk station, or line 5, exit Jongno 3-ga station. This is one of the best spots in Seoul for gifts—from high-end antiques and esoteric teas to posters of K-pop stars, this is the place.

Ride through Sacramento’s Old Town like they did in the “old days...” in a horse-driven carriage. You won’t have a care in the world as you pass all those other pedestrians weighed down by all their taffy shopping. Hear about some of the stories from the Old Town’s heyday and leave the area just a little more knowledgeable!

Stepping into the Montana Candy Emporium is certain to overwhelm all of your senses. Smells of freshly made fudge fill the air while walls full of signs, cool cruiser bikes and nicknacks will keep your eyes busy. Of course, the main attraction is the giant buckets filled with taffies, chocolates, jelly beans, licorices and hand made delights. The smells, sites and tastes will definitely make you feel.....well, like a kid in a candy store.

Maple taffy is an outrageous Quebecois treat. My friend here, dressed in her fantastic Canadian tuxedo, drizzled sweet, sweet maple syrup over clean white snow to create maple toffee. She let me flip the confection onto a stick, and deliciousness ensued. I suggest you keep a toothbrush in your pocket if you get a little zealous on this stuff. I found this pop-up near the Place Jacques-Cartier, but I’ve spotted Tire D'érable all over town.

South Edison never disappoints, with an always-reliable selection of oysters and the best raw bar in town. Their porgy a la plancha is a vision on a plate prepared with maitake mushroom, corn purée, jalapeño and micro ruby radish. Other standouts include olive oil braised baby octopus tacos and fluke sashimi with plum chili jam and smoked seat salt. To drink, my Montauk Mojito with mint and berry puree went down just a little too easy. The check arrives in a cute red tin surrounded by fresh saltwater taffy — which somehow helps to soften the blow.

Up-and-coming starlets in the 1920s and ‘30s would have stayed at the Crescent. When the palm tree–lined art deco building opened in 1927, it was as lodgings for the budding actresses who’d just signed studio contracts and moved out to L.A. for their big breaks. They, too, sipped cocktails (after Prohibition ended, of course) and listened to jazz (probably not by a live band, though) in the intimate lounge and on the breezy terrace. It’s even just possible there was saltwater taffy at the front desk and a library stocked with an impressive collection of classic and contemporary literature and nonfiction. However, the walls might not have been adorned with paintings and photographs by some of the area’s top artists, and there definitely wasn’t 24-hour room service or iPod docks.

After the studios moved on, and luxury designer shops and trendy restaurants moved in, the Crescent turned into a cozy, quirky boutique hotel known for its prime location, affordable rates, and bend-over-backward service. These things won’t change.

If there’s a hub of the hubbub in Kennebunkport, it’s Dock Square, a colorful jumble of onetime fishing shacks that now house galleries, stores, and restaurants. Prowl through the shops to find unusual clothing, distinctive souvenirs, fine art, crafts, taffy and fudge, pottery, canvas bags, specialty foods, presents for pets, and, of course, the usual trinkets and T-shirts. Most of these spots are built on wharves over the tidal Kennebunk River, and it’s worth climbing to second-floor ones, such as Good Earth, for the water—or mudflat—views. The bridge connecting Dock Square to Kennebunk’s Lower Village offers another good vantage point, and the Clam Shack is one of the area’s best places to indulge in fried clams or a lobster roll.

Prefer your activities to be a bit more hands-on than a typical group tour? Maybe something along the lines of catching a fish with your bare hands? If so, you can spend a day with a trapper and cook your own trout lunch (accompanied by bread cooked on a branch) while learning about Algonquin traditions, native techniques, and local wildlife. Should you fall for the wilderness way of life, tree houses are available for overnight visits year-round.