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Wandering around Rabat, trying to get to the waterfront, we stumbled upon this cemetery which turned out to be enormous and mysterious, with tombstones literally stacked upon one another and tumbling all the way down to the sea. Tens of thousands of beautifully engraved tombstones. I’d never seen anything like it before.

When temperatures soar, the best thing you can do for yourself, and anyone you are with, is to buy a pass to one of the hotel pools. The Riad Alkantara is situated at the heart of the medina and offers a long, deep, aquamarine-colored pool surrounded by a small but lush garden busy with butterflies and warbling songbirds. It’s usually very tranquil, but it’s worth arriving around 11 a.m. to be sure of a sun bed in high summer. Note also that service is painfully slow, so if you want to order a simple lunch (sandwiches, salads) be sure to order at least an hour and a half before you actually want to eat.

In the Ville Nouvelle, the Marriott is another good option and a better bet if you have kids in tow, as it has a shallow pool for children as well as a large pool for adults. Plentiful sun beds, not to mention a decent Italian restaurant that serves cold beers and chilled Moroccan wines as well as child-friendly pizza and pasta, add to the perfection. The Hôtel Les Mérinides is situated high on a ridge above the medina and it has a medium-size pool surrounded by a dining terrace with expansive views. It’s more exposed than the other two, but rounding off the day up here with a gin and tonic as the sun goes down over the ancient city is arguably one of the most magical summertime experiences you can have.

Finally, if time and budget allow, it’s worth booking transport to ferry you out to Dar El Mandar, less than an hour’s drive away from the city center, near the Middle Atlas town of Imouzzer (pass price includes lunch). Perched on a hillside overlooking the Saiss Plains, you can spend a delightful day lolling poolside amid terraced gardens dotted with cushion-strewn Berber tents for those all-important afternoon siestas.

High-elevation baking might not always (ahem) rise to the occasion...but at Clafoutis, the French family that owns and cooks at this bakery/restaurant has acclimated perfectly to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. While it might be hard to tear yourself away from red-and-geeen-chile-on-everything while in New Mexico, if you do want to take a break from capsaicin for your morning eats, this is the place. Just to the northwest of the city’s historic core, Clafoutis is one of Santa Fe‘s morning institutions. You can get things to go, but if you wait for a table, you’ll be served café au lait in a bowl along with “Bonne Maman” jams to transform perfectly-textured baguettes into “tartines.” “Bonjour” greets you as you walk in the door, and your eyes will feast on the piles of pâtisseries beckoning from the counter. My wife and I had one of the best chausson-aux-pommes--in or out of France--that we’ve ever tasted. And, in a nod to local tastes, they even offered green chile to go with les oeufs... Be forewarned, though--parking is extremely limited, and weekend mornings are formidably popular. Un peu de patience: so worth the wait!

The concept of a New Moroccan cuisine has only been taken seriously in the motherland over the last couple of years, and only very recently in Fes. Chef Najat Kaanache, whose résumé includes stints at trendsetting restaurants El Bulli and Noma, opened Nur in September 2016. Designed by Stephen di Renza (creative director at the Jardin Majorelle boutique in Marrakech), the space has a monochromatic vibe that’s offset by stunningly beautiful plates of food that include innovations like duck confit on herb “meringue,” cured shark on Moroccan corn bread, and grass-fed beef adobo and potato hearts. This is a bright new chapter in Fes’s culinary evolution.

Located in the Railyard District, the friendly and efficient La Choza (Spanish for “the shed”) doles out traditional New Mexican fare. Start with the satisfying posole (a hominy). Try the stuffed sopapillas with an earthy red chile, and classic huevos rancheros. Don’t be afraid to sample the hearty, non-traditional green chili clam chowder. The series of dining rooms are peppered with local art, and while you wait for your order, don’t miss the ample tequila list.

You can’t miss the great signage (cool cursive font) outside The Pantry on Cerrillos Road. For over 60 years, this old classic has been doling out breakfast, lunch and dinner to flocks of hungry patrons, mostly locals. Their filling breakfast sandwich is filled with bacon, scrambled eggs and green chile and an all-American breakfast of chicken-fried steak and biscuits with country sausages.

Head up to the fifth floor of the bustling, popular La Fonda Hotel for stellar sunset views of city and distant mountains. Arrive early to beat the crowds and settle in. Relax with the signature margarita called the Bell Ringer, makes the experience all the more authentic.

La Capilla de la Familia Sagrada sits at the base of Black Mesa, a sacred mountain on the San Ildefonso Pueblo reservation. It is one of the most photographed buildings in New Mexico. The little adobe chapel, against the backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, is dramatic in every season of the year. It can be seen from the road between Espanola and Los Alamos, but cannot be visited without permission from the Pueblo.

When most people look at a piece of turquoise, they see a pretty blue stone. The people of New Mexico see water, sky, bountiful harvests, and a source of health and protection. Turquoise has been a valuable stone—in jewelry, for ceremonial purposes, and as an object of trade—for more than a thousand years. Many works of art incorporating turquoise are on permanent display in New Mexico, at institutions like the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe. You can also, however, see (and touch) them at street festivals and markets along with weaving, pottery, silverwork, Kachina dolls, and more. You may even decide to take a bit of New Mexico home with you.

Spend some time on Museum Hill visiting the Museum of International Folk Art with its awesome Alexander Girard collection, the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian and its stocked basement trading post of Native American wares, and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. Unlike museum gift shops that sell replicas of artworks or mass-produced souvenirs, the museum shops here often carry original works of art for sale, so buying here can make you a collector, too. After all that culture, you’ll be famished, so swing by the Museum Hill Cafe for a light snack.

To get from Albuquerque to Santa Fe, don’t take I-25 North--it’s busy and sterile. Drive east on I-40 to the backside of the Sandía Mountains, get off on exit 175, and head north on Highway 14, also known as “The Turquoise Trail.” You’ll wind through forest to plateau, through mining towns and old Spanish land grants. Halfway to Santa Fe you’ll come to Madrid. (Note--do NOT pronounce it the way you would the capital of Spain; here it’s “MAD-rid.”) In the early 20th-c., some four thousand people lived here; by WWII it had become a ghost town when the local coal demand dropped. By the 1970’s the town began to be reoccupied--artists moved in, galleries set up...it claims to have more artists per capita than any other town in the country. (The population is around 400.) And in 2006, the town served as the set for the John Travolta film “Wild Hogs.” Driving in from the south, you’ll note the brightly painted houses; just after the highway curves, find a place to park among the motorcycles and grab a coffee at Java Junction (they have a B&B upstairs)--their motto: “Bad Coffee sucks.” The morning I stopped here, the café had a welcome sign in German; some Mercedes businessmen were having a road-trip meeting...Madrid is alive and well.

Part of Museum Hill, the Wheelwright, founded in 1937 by Mary Cabot Wheelwright, is a small private museum with a stellar collection of pottery, sculpture, baskets, weavings, and historic and contemporary works by Native American artists. The hidden gem remains the lower-level Case Trading Post with a fantastic selection of jewelry, kachina dolls, weavings, and pottery from over 200 Native American artists.

The elegant, grown-up Compound Restaurant on Santa Fe’s Canyon Road caters to devoted locals and tourists alike with a Southwestern-meets-Mediterranean focus. James Beard Award–winning chef Mark Kiffin scores with entrées like roasted rack of lamb, salmon with crispy pancetta, and wild mushrooms with organic stone-ground polenta. At lunch, the bar menu is less pricey and offers a chance to sample the famed Compound Burger, made with local Lone Mountain Ranch Wagyu beef, and wash it down with a cold beer. Even with the fantastic cuisine, the best parts of this white tablecloth and custom furniture institution remain the clean adobe arches and folk-art decor created by artist Alexander Girard.

The great Almohad sultan, Moulay Ismail made Meknes his imperial capital and it is there that he is entombed. Although his mausoleum lies stone’s throw from Place El-Hedim and Bab al-Mansour, it’s not easy to find because it’s not marked. You will have to ask for help. When you enter in the mausoleum, you step inside a small entry room, painted buttercup yellow with a small fountain marking the center of the room. The entry room leads to the first of several interconnected open aired courtyards, each of which is also painted buttercup yellow. Surrounded in all directions by bright yellow walls, it’s hard to believe you’re actually in a mausoleum. The last courtyard fronts the tomb room and unless you’re a Muslim, you cannot enter. But not to be disappointed, the ante room will simply take your breath away. It soars up several stories high with a row of windows at the top that lets the sunlight filter in. Intricately carved plaster and delicately patterned zellij tiles adorn the walls. In the center of the floor is a small fountain collared by the eight pointed star that is classic to Moroccan design. There is perfect symmetry in all the design elements. It’s just a magnificent space!

Contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to go all the way to Japan to stay at a traditional Japanese ryokan and experience the restorative spa experience of an onsen, or hot springs bath resort. Just 15 minutes from the cultural heart of downtown Santa Fe, Ten Thousand Waves’ 20 sprawling acres are home to one of the United States’ most distinctive and luxurious spa retreats. The nine hot baths are truly restorative, and the spa’s many Japanese-inspired treatments are as pampering and healing as at any top spa. Ten Thousand Waves keeps with the Japanese tradition of baths as a place for fun and socializing, making it especially popular with groups of friends. The festive atmosphere extends to the inn’s izakaya, which serves traditional Japanese cuisine from local ingredients (in other words, no sushi). Each of the 13 cottages draws on nature in its serene aesthetic, with clean lines, natural wood, and traditional artwork, in addition to all the requisite modern luxuries.