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Stand on the the quais beneath the Pont Neuf bridge—the city’s oldest crossing of the Seine—and look up. Staring down at you are mascarons, stone faces that resemble gargoyles, but without bodies. No two of these grotesque visages are the same. Enjoy their individuality as you ponder the decades it took to build this stone structure: begun in 1578 by Henri III and inaugurated by Henri IV in 1607. From 1588 to 1599, construction was interrupted by the French Wars of Religion, which lasted 36 years. Then head up the stairs to walk across its two spans, which connect the Ile de la Cité to the Right and Left banks. Great views of the Louvre can be had from the longer, seven-arch span that stretches to the Right Bank.

The Banff Ave Brewing Company uses pure Canadian Rockies glacier water as its beer’s not-so-secret ingredient. The water makes for a perfectly imperfect beer, as it comes chock-full of minerals usually removed before the brewing process. Open since 2010, the Banff Ave Beer Co has six handcrafted beers on tap at the brewpub in downtown Banff, along with a food menu that puts an eccentric twist on traditional pub fare. The brewpub is popular year-round. In the winter, it’s great for après ski or for a nice meal before sampling some of Banff’s bolder nightlife venues. In the summer, its patio is the perfect place for a refreshing afternoon drink while people watching along Banff Avenue. Open 7 days per week, 11:30am to 2am. Reservations not required. 1-403-762-1003.

The Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme opened in 2002 at the heyday of Asian minimalism, with American architect Ed Tuttle employing dark woods, taupe silks, and clean-lined furniture to transform the grand, 19th-century former headquarters of the Paquin fashion house into one of the city’s most luxurious business hotels. It’s accented with modern French touches such as bespoke sculpted bronze door and cabinet fittings, underfloor heating, French limestone soaking tubs, and rain showers with Blaise Mautin toiletries. Amid other services, airport pick-ups in a Bentley Continental or Rolls Royce Phantom helped win over tourism officials who granted the hotel its current palace status, a grade above a mere five-star rating. Still steadily occupied, but often as hushed as a bank vault, the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme is a calm, elegant counterpoint to the nearby Palais Garnier Opera House and blingy Place Vendôme, epicenter of the city’s jewelry district. It’s been a home away from home for many celebrities and it’s a haven for regular business travelers of all industries.

Located on the second level of the Eiffel Tower (an elevator takes you up, bypassing the crowds), Le Jules Verne offers Michelin-starred dining by Alain Ducasse, views of the Trocadéro and the Seine and the satisfaction of securing a privileged perch inside Paris’s most famous landmark. Reserve online up to three months in advance.

Paris is known for many things but until recently, ethnic fare wasn’t one of them. In the hip neighborhood south of Pigalle, YOOM is my go-to spot for wildly delicious dim sum in an environment that is both cozy and contemporary - not the dive we all tend to imagine for good Asian bites. It’s a mix of New York style and Hong Kong spirit but universally delicious.

Marché d’Aligre is a very special place: Commerces de bouche (mouth businesses!) line up to sell their goods, an orchestra of voices calls out daily specials, and cheesemongers offer free samples. The market’s selection changes with the seasons. In summer, apricots from the Roussillon, figs from Toulouse, and bouquets of herbs from Provence spill from cases and perfume the air. As fall arrives, the butcher will display fresh game from the hunt, and there’s usually at least one stand where someone is shucking fresh oysters. After your visit here, your appetite will surely be piqued; happily the neighborhood is rich in restaurants that base their menus on what’s fresh at the market.

One of the most talked about hotels in Paris, Hotel Costes is located in one of the most fashionable streets, Rue Saint Honore. The hotel is best known for its fine bar and courtyard cafe and for its sexy atmosphere and crowd. If you don’t book a room there, make sure to come at least for a drink.

Hilton’s reentry into the heart of Paris is nothing short of majestic. After a $50 million design overhaul, the 125-year-old hotel, made for the 1889 World’s Fair, has been revived to its 19th-century splendor with a contemporary twist. Formerly the Grand Hotel Terminus and the Concorde Opéra Paris, the property’s landmark status—with its Haussmannian facade and elegant public spaces—demanded it be painstakingly preserved. Among the restored, original elements, the most awe-inspiring are the Corinthian columns, chandeliers, balustrades, hand-painted frescoes, and marble and mosaic tiling. Fortunately, the bar takes pride of place among them, making it the ideal spot to start your stay with a cocktail or glass of wine.

The style in each of the rooms breaks with the traditional stark-white modern codes of most business hotels. Here it incorporates warm accent colors and textiles. With few heritage elements left to preserve, the sense of place is woven in with custom etchings of iconic Paris scenes hung behind each bed. But you won’t be spending much time here, as the action happens in the grand salon.

H&M’s first stand-alone brand debuted in Europe in 2007, selling minimalist, architectural basics that evoke the aesthetic of luxury house Céline—albeit with a few zeroes knocked off the price tag. There are plans to bring the chain to the United States, but until then, Paris, with five shops sprinkled throughout town, is one of the best places to sample the goods. This appeared in the October 2013 issue.

The Pont Alexandre III bridge is probably one of the most striking structures to cross the Seine in Paris. It links the quarter of the Champs-Élysées to the Invalides and Eiffel Tower quarter in a most extravagant fashion. The golden statues of Pegasus appear to watch over the city, and if you stare long enough you are convinced that he might just depart his perch and soar off into the Parisian sky.

The Hotel Adlon Kempinski undoubtedly boasts the most distinguished location in the city—right on historic Pariser Platz, opposite the Brandenburg Gate. The original incarnation opened in 1907 with the blessing of none other than Kaiser Wilhelm II. Despite playing host to such illustrious guests as Tsar Nicholas II, Albert Einstein, and Franklin Roosevelt, the building was almost destroyed after World War II. A new hotel was eventually opened in 1997 and continues to draw celebrities, politicians, and the occasional aristocrat—in 2002, it was here that Michael Jackson notoriously dangled his nine-month-old son out the window.

Needless to say, the hotel is the last word in stately—if somewhat conservative—luxury, as heralded by its glamorous, balconied lobby, which greets guests with the sounds of live piano and a trickling fountain. The sumptuous rooms come with marble bathrooms, full-size work desks, and entertainment centers; the three restaurants include the two-Michelin-starred Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer, serving classic European dishes such as braised shoulder of lamb (there’s a four-week waitlist for reservations, so plan accordingly). A luxury spa and a range of boutiques offering everything from fine wines to jewelry to porcelain are also on-site.

Who is Sir Albert? This issue might perplex the uninitiated because the hotel and its staff insist that the mysterious aristocrat transformed his private mansion into a collection of sleek and fashionable pieds-à-terre for the international cognoscenti who come to Amsterdam. In reality, the 19th-century red-brick building was once a diamond factory, built to be so sturdy that the trams wouldn’t shake it, and, while that rich history is reflected in some of the angular and clean-lined decor, it’s more fun to imagine that a wealthy eccentric has designed the stylish and spacious rooms and left you in the hands of a staff used to realizing whims before they’re even imagined.

The rooms themselves are indulgent in a minimalist way, with dashes of both Japanese modernism and midcentury Scandinavian design in the black wooden floors, oversized white soaking tubs, and all the latest technology; clearly, Sir Albert is well traveled. He also must have a taste for authentic Japanese cuisine, considering the house restaurant is inspired by traditional Japanese pubs and attracts discerning foodies and hip young locals alike. He clearly travels in trendy circles, considering his house’s location in lively De Pijp; his appreciation for art, too, is evident in the proximity to the Museumplein.

Within the 18th arrondissement in Paris France, high atop the city, resides the wonderfully beautiful, hilly neighborhood of Montmartre. This diverse and eclectic section of the city can be a bit busy with tourists, but the views of Paris and the splendor of the Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur are certainly worth it. Riding the funicular is rather novel, but not necessary if you’re willing to climb the 300+ steps to the summit. This is an area to be explored on foot, as is nearly all of Paris. The shops, theaters, and forever famous Moulin Rouge should not be missed. The streets are intimate, the shops unique, and the overall feel of this place speaks of a youthful, colorful Paris.

Coco Chanel famously made the Ritz Paris her home for 34 years, but the grandest hotels need a little brightening once in a while. The Ritz, which originally opened on Place Vendôme in 1898, reopened in 2016 after a four-year, $450 million renovation. Starchitect Thierry Despont wisely retained iconic features like the red entry carpet and the hotel’s signature amber scent, but he incorporated brighter fabrics to the public rooms, subtle touches like a heightened lobby ceiling and the addition of peaceful landscaped gardens, and bold statements such as a retractable glass roof on the patio. Overall, too, the number of guest rooms was reduced to 142, and the number of staff was raised to 630. Guest rooms are light and airy, with cream walls, Empire furniture, swags of floral silk fabrics, and marble fireplaces with gilt details. Some rooms have balconies, perfect for morning coffee. Down in the Ritz Club, the pool, serenely set in a columned art deco room, is long enough for laps. The Chanel au Ritz Paris is the brand’s first freestanding spa, with treatment rooms featuring (of course) Chanel skin care and beauty products.

Did you know that only 25% of French people buy their cheese from a fromagerie? And of that 25, only 3-4% go to an affineur (cheese refiner). Both are the sad realities of a dying tradition in France of sourcing provisions from neighborhood artisans. Young affineur Baptiste Yapar doesn’t let the disheartening takeover of corporate food business dull his passion. The firebrand cheese master focuses his energy on running his shops Au Coeur du Marché (at the Marché d’Aligre) and educating the public. At La Cuisine Paris cooking school, he takes a small group through a complete background of cheese (it didn’t begin in France!), methods of production and the various designations and families of cheeses available. A copious tasting of 7-10 different cheeses (with wine) follows the contextual debut and is, as my friend and I agreed by the end, the closest thing approximating cheese heaven on earth. It is a fascinating two-hour experience that will not only inform how you consider the nuances of cheese in the future but will have you excited to seek out your nearest independent cheese shop for more.