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A few years back, when Lima’s Central Restaurante was closed because of zoning issues, Peru‘s celebrity chef, Gastón Acurio, was one of many who petitioned for it to be reopened. I knew that meant the young chef at Central, Virgilio Martinez, must be doing something truly special. Virgilio’s restaurant is located in Lima’s hip Barranco neighborhood. I stopped in solo one afternoon for lunch and was dazzled by the dishes his servers put in front of me: charred purple corn with scented octopus, lentils, yuzu, and bok choy; “mask of the suckling pig” (or pig face) with tart green apple, baby tomatoes, and galangal; and suckling goat with chickpeas, goat cheese, and lemon verbena. Each course was plated like a work of art and was a beautiful riddle on the palette. My enthusiasm for my food earned me a tour of the open kitchen and the rooftop garden, where servers pluck flowers or clip herbs for dishes like the citrus gelée with edible flowers (pictured above). Chef also gave me a tour of his incredible chocolate cellar, where he shows off his favorite chocolate bars from around the world.

This Four Seasons Resort offers guests plenty of ways to relax and get to know Hawai’i.

First, you can push beyond the protected cove and explore the coastline of Lanikuhonua, a sacred spot that served as a retreat for ancient Hawaiian chiefs and royalty. Part of the Four Seasons Resort Oʻahu curator program, this serene early morning experience blends exercise, education and meditation, thanks to its leader Anu, a kahuna (shaman), and his band of merry watermen. “Too often modern life drowns out engagement with nature,” he explains. “We give too much time to our gizmos and forget the ocean can bring health and peace of mind.” Suitable for all levels of paddlers.

After a day on the water, head to their restaurant. This surf-style restaurant elevates Hawaii’s food truck fare at the Four Seasons Resort Oʻahu at Ko Olina. Expect ahi poké, wild boar hot dogs and the coolest French fry innovation out there: a heaping platter of slender spuds topped with parmesan, cherry tomatoes and wilted arugula for that “it’s healthy, really” feeling! Wash it all down with kombucha on draft – with flavors like lychee or lilikoi (passionfruit) – or cocktails such as the Castaway, featuring melon vodka, coconut water and lime juice. Come prepared to lounge outside, as the Waterman wraps around the family pool and also serves its exclusive beach. Open 11am to 6pm.

Don’t let the name or menu fool you. This is neither a bakery nor the wings and burgers joint the menu might have you think. Rather, it’s a lively bar in the otherwise quiet city of Launceston that attracts vegans and meat eaters alike. Vegans and “vegos” come for the shrub burger (with fried pumpkin, eggplant, and vegan lemon aioli) or the veggie enchiladas. Carnivores swear by the “sanga” (sandwich) with slow-roasted pork shoulder doused in whiskey barbecue sauce and topped with coleslaw and apple peach chutney. An Aussie craft beer or Baileys and butterscotch espresso martini on the side patio, strung with faux ivy, isn’t too shabby either. The best times are had on live music and DJ nights, when the bar buzzes late.

Marilyn Monroe once proclaimed that her favorite swimming pool was at the Arizona Biltmore. And Irving Berlin, obviously a person who didn’t know how to relax, is said to have written “White Christmas” while a guest at the hotel. Other musical guests have included Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr., who were known to play on a piano in the lobby. But that’s history, and the Jewel of the Desert, as the 90-year-old hotel was once known, is now just one more sparkling gem in a treasure chest of Arizona resorts. To continue shining, the Biltmore underwent a major renovation that was completed in late 2016. Much of the update focused on restoring the hotel’s original main building, but the guest rooms, meeting spaces, ballrooms, and spa were also polished. The contemporary style that now dominates the Biltmore was inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright, who played a significant role in determining the hotel’s original look. In the guest rooms, Wright’s influence is most notable in the wall coverings, embossed with a design similar to that found on his “Biltmore Blocks,” used in the construction of most of the resort. Of course, for guests who didn’t come for the history, or the design lecture, there are still the eight swimming pools, seven tennis courts, and, next door at the Arizona Biltmore Golf Club, 36 holes of golf.

We stood like a pair of Hemingway’s cats in the thin Scandinavian rain to photograph the oxidized lions washed dark at the front of the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. A rainy day is always a good day to see a museum and the Carlsberg, the brainchild of the beer scion Carl Jacobsen, is one museum to visit when the weather encourages it. The well-lit solarium of the winter garden speckled with koi ponds, tall palms, and miniaturized sculptures first welcomes you. There a popular cafe serves coffees, beers (from the Carlsberg Brewery naturally), organic lunches, and locally sourced treats. The most popular dining spot, where a reservation is needed, is along the terrace which overlooks the garden. The museum’s two collections are antiquities and French and Danish art from the 19th century. Sculptures are the museum’s métier- they dot even the quiet corners of the museum- from the serious Roman busts to the Danish sculptures which extol physical perfection and line the bright rooms like alabaster runway models. The patterned tiles and marble columns add airs of formality. Then there are the impressionist wings: van Gogh’s Landscape from Saint-Remy; Manet’s the Absinthe Drinker; Gaugin’s Tahitian Woman with Flower; Degas’ The Little-Fourteen-Year-Old Dancer. One appreciates that you can get up close to the works without a rush of onlookers; the museum’s collections are carefully curated, so as to not to overwhelm, and are laid in a manner inviting you to stay for a while.

If you’re driving out to the beaches or bars of St. Kitts’ southeast peninsula, make sure to stop for an envy-inducing photo op at the top of Timothy Hill. Up here, your 360-degree view includes the Atlantic Ocean, the Caribbean Sea, Friar’s and Frigate bays, Nevis, and the hilly peninsula itself.

Salar de Uyuni, located in the Daniel Campos province of Bolivia, looks like it belongs on another planet. Stretching for more than 4,050 square miles—a little smaller than the state of Connecticut—it is the world’s largest salt flat, formed when several prehistoric lakes dried up 25,000 to 10,000 years ago, leaving behind hexagonal patterns of salt on the otherwise featureless surface. When nearby lakes overflow, or the area gets rain, a thin layer of water covers the expanse, transforming it into a massive reflective mirror that makes for jaw-dropping, dreamlike photos.


The natural wonder has served as a valuable source of salt and lithium for Bolivia, and it has long been a hot spot for tourism in South America. There’s even a hotel built out of salt bricks: the Palacio de Sal. If you’re planning a trip to witness the surreal beauty of the Salar de Uyuni salt flat, here’s what you need to know.



To see Salar de Uyuni’s breathtaking mirror effort, visit during wet season, from December to April—but be aware that when it gets too rainy, it can be hard to get around and you might not be able to access certain areas. May to November is the dry season, which means temperatures are colder, but the ground is harder and you can drive across the land more easily.



The ideal month to visit is May, when the seasons transition from wet to dry and you’ll have a good chance of seeing the salt flats both dusty and reflective.



Salar de Uyuni sits near the point where Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile meet, so tourists tend to come from three different starting places.



The town of Uyuni in Bolivia is the most popular place to embark on tours of the salt flats. The small town is so close to the flats, you can easily take day trips. If you’re traveling from La Paz to Uyuni, you can take a one-hour flight or an eight-hour overnight bus.



San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is another well-known starting point for tours of the salt flats, but because it’s about 200 miles away, most tours are three days long.



If you’re coming from Argentina, look into multi-day tours operating out of Tupiza, Bolivia, a good base less than 60 miles over the Argentinian border.



Tour operators in the region offer shared or private tours. Shared tours are more affordable, but they don’t offer much flexibility when it comes to your schedule. Also, most shared tours are led by Spanish-speaking guides, while private tours can offer English-speaking ones.



Many tours of the salt flats also go to other attractions in the area, such as the Polques hot springs, the Atacama Desert, and high-altitude lakes like Laguna Colorada. Look into tours originating in San Pedro de Atacama and Tupiza for itineraries that include these destinations.



Salar de Uyuni is located nearly 12,000 feet above sea level, so you might experience altitude sickness symptoms such as nausea and headaches and should plan accordingly.



To enter Bolivia, travelers must have a tourist visa, which costs $160 for U.S. citizens, and a yellow fever vaccination certificate if they are traveling from a country with risk of yellow fever.

Why we love it: A soulful getaway with access to the best of Todos Santos

The Highlights:
- Guest rooms stocked with luxury linens, alpaca throws, and locally made bath products
- The farm-fresh breakfast served on the palapa-shaded patio
- On-site hosts who will arrange everything from paddle-boarding trips to art walks

The Review:
With their otomi print–clad headboards, colorful talavera tiles, and eclectic hanging lanterns, the eight adobe-and-thatch guest rooms at La Bohemia may inspire you to quit your day job and make Todos Santos your permanent home. The boutique hotel’s husband-and-wife owners fell in love with the place five years ago when they stumbled upon it during a South American road trip and are happy to ensure you enjoy the property as much as they do, whether you use it as an adventure base lodge (they can arrange surfing lessons, fishing trips, and swimming with sea lions) or an escape from the bustle of downtown Todos Santos.

A palapa-shaded patio hosts regular yoga classes, mezcal tastings, and fish taco nights, while a lush tropical garden dotted with loungers and hammocks encourages late-afternoon siestas. There’s also a lovely outdoor pool, plus a beach just a short walk from the hotel (guests also have access to nearby El Faro Beach Club, with a spa and saltwater pool). While there’s no on-site restaurant, there is daily farm-fresh breakfast and on-site bar La Panga Rosa for house mojitos and margaritas. And there are plenty more dining options within strolling distance, nestled among the shops and galleries of hip Todos Santos.

Why we love it: A conveniently located stay offering high design and low-key charm

The Highlights:
- Striking design with handcrafted furnishings
- Welcoming neighborhood vibe
- Great drinking and dining from an acclaimed F&B team

The Review:
You’d never guess that several hospitality heavy hitters were involved in this low-key, boutique spot—and that’s just the way they want it. Developed by former Ace Hotel group co-owner Jack Barron and architect Jen Turner—the husband-and-wife duo behind the Mighty Union hotel group—the hotel is set in the former Local 1266 Carpenters Union Hall, tucked among a grove of pecan trees just off South Lamar Boulevard. In a nod to those carpenters, a maker aesthetic runs strong throughout the property, from the warm woods and plush leathers to the handcrafted furnishings and woven textiles. Rooms are unfussy and sparsely furnished but comfortable, with a sort of friend’s guest room feel; they come in queen, double, and king options, all with blackout shades, low-slung seating, and terraces.

Down in the public areas, locals and guests meet for coffee in the lounges, grab kolaches or tacos in the Hot L Café, or head to the Carpenter Hall restaurant for elevated yet casual meals under the direction of chef Grae Nonas, co-founder of Austin’s much-lauded Olamaie. (More on the big-name front: Mighty Union’s F&B program is overseen by another husband-and-wife team, Christina Skogly Knowlton and Andrew Knowlton—the latter an editor-at-large for Bon Appetit and host of Netflix’s The Final Table.) A sparkling courtyard pool is also on-site for cooling off after an Austin scorcher.

Rising before one of the world’s most famous sailing sites—the host of the Louis Vuitton Regattas, the Volvo Round the World Race, and the Auckland International Boat Show—the Sofitel Auckland Viaduct Harbour blends French and South Pacific influences while respecting the maritime heritage of the area. Glass walls maximize views of the marina and its many yachts as well as the reflective pools that create optical illusions in the hotel lobby. The color palette sets cherry and dark woods, jade greens, and slate grays against cream and white backdrops, while artwork—from ceremonial pieces to a Maori tribal sculpture in the atrium—pays homage to indigenous New Zealanders. Some of the treatments at the SO Spa, like the greenstone massage, also reflect local culture, while others use French products in a nod to the hotel brand’s heritage.

References to Auckland’s volcanic origins also abound, most notably in the back-lit marble walls of the Lava Dining restaurant, an all-day spot for French- and New Zealand-accented dishes; the casual 21 Viaduct Café and panoramic Sabrage Bar are other dining options. And then there are the rooms: from the Superiors and Junior Suites to the exclusive Opera Suite, all have contemporary décor, signature MyBed mattresses, marble baths with Lanvin products and separate showers and tubs, and walls of windows opening out onto a Juliet balcony with views of either the hotel’s atrium, or the city, harbor, and beyond.

A 10-minute walk from downtown Scottsdale, the Hotel Valley Ho, its name most likely inspired by the long-ago repurposed Westward Ho (once the area’s premier hotel), has the kind of riches-to-rags-to-riches story that makes the crowd hanging around the pool on weekends not just hip but part of history. Opened in 1956, it featured a futuristic design of red-tinted concrete, stone, and glass—and a well-connected owner—that quickly made it a magnet for movie stars like Robert Wagner and Natalie Wood, who held their wedding reception here. But as the Hollywood crowd knows best, fame wanes, and the hotel eventually reached such a low point that it was nearly torn down. It was saved due to its historic significance, and after a massive renovation that preserved many original elements, it re-emerged in 2006 not only with its trendy reputation revived, but also as one of the country’s best examples of mid-century hotel architecture. (The seven-story tower block was part of the original design but not built until the renovation.) Guest rooms are bright with colors that wouldn’t be out of place on South Beach. And the pool is still the place to be.

Inspired by the lunar calendar, new spa treatments at the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne resort on an island south of Miami Beach explore the moon’s influence on the senses. Products from Éminence’s biodynamic line utilize ingredients harvested during corresponding phases of the moon.

Why we love it: An iconic spa resort remade as a chic, eco-friendly retreat

Highlights:
- A digitally disconnected philosophy that allows guests to unwind and engage
- Meals at the fantastic on-site restaurant included in the room rate
- Dark sky–friendly lighting and other sustainable design elements

The Review:
Once the preferred haunt of the American aristocracy, Castle Hot Springs, located just an hour’s drive northwest of Phoenix, attracted families like the Pews, Wrigleys, Vanderbilts, and Rockefellers. In 1945, John F. Kennedy even convalesced here, hiking the high-desert trails and soaking in the hot springs that have served as a place of healing for the native Yavapai tribe for millennia. A 1976 fire set the resort on the path to decline, but as of 2019, it’s back and wowing guests with old glamour and new green elements.

The resort, now freshly renovated, comprises a main lodge, 12 contemporary bungalows, and 19 cabins (complete with telescopes for stargazing), all designed by the team behind Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort and Hotel Valley Ho. Following the property’s “digital detox” ethos, rooms don’t have TV or Wi-Fi, but more than make up for it with luxurious bedding and deep-soaking tubs. When not relaxing in privacy, guests can dine on fresh, local fare at on-site restaurant Harvest (which works with more than 150 varieties of fruits and vegetables grown on the hotel’s organic farm) or take a dip in the 125,000-gallon swimming pool fed by the surrounding hot springs. Also on property are two natural soaking pools, a rock grotto, and a serene spa right next to the spring. For those who wish to venture off-site, the staff can arrange hikes or horseback rides through the Bradshaw Mountains.

The sky above Jasper National Park comes alive at night. Celebrated as a Dark Sky Preserve, the national park is one of the best places in the world to stargaze. Light pollution is that orange hue often seen above cities, which is caused by the large amount of iridescent light omnipresent in populated areas. Jasper, home to only 5,000 people in a 10,000-square-kilometer area, is essentially light-pollution free. Because of this, the skies are darker—the area around Columbia Icefield is one of the darkest places in North America—so it’s possible to clearly see more stars than nearly anywhere else. Although the dark skies are best viewed in autumn and winter, from September to March, the best time to learn about the stars is during Jasper’s annual Dark Sky Festival that takes place at the end of October. The best part? It’s absolutely free.

It’s one of the most recognizable facades on Passeig de Gràcia: a modernist fantasy of undulating stone, brightly colored mosaics, and stained glass—one that could only come from the mind of famed Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. Designed in 1904 as a home for local industrialist Josep Batlló, the building pays homage to the legendary tale of Saint George and the Dragon. The balconies are reminiscent of skulls, and exterior columns look like bones—recalling the dragon’s human victims—while the roof’s arched shape and scale-like tiles mimic the dragon itself. The interior is just as fantastical, all sinuous lines and curving forms. To avoid the crush, try going first thing on a weekday morning, or shell out a bit extra for a Fast Pass timed ticket online (28.5 euros, or about $37—5 euros more than regular admission).