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Wandering Chef: Mary Sue Milliken in San Francisco

Stay where the chocolate is made.

Wandering Chef: Matthew Accarrino in Oahu

Shopping in Guadeloupe is a thrill. On the one hand you get the best of French goods, from perfumes and beauty products to trendy beach apparel, and on the other you get Guadeloupean arts and crafts. On Grande Terre, Sainte-Anne’s artisanal fabrics will have you renewing your beach closet, while the colorful markets of Pointe-a-Pitre are ideal for stocking up on cooking spices. Guadeloupean rhum—which also comes in delicious fruit flavors—and cacao are sold island-wide, while the shopping malls house French designer brands. The best packing advice for Guadeloupe is to save plenty of luggage space.

One of Playa’s newest hotels, Cacao is being touted as a “kicked-back, relaxed ‘hippie chic’ boutique, 60-room hotel. Conveniently situated on Playa del Carmen’s 5th Ave. in the heart of the destination’s fashionable restaurant, club and boutique scene it is also walking distance to the beach. Spacious, modern rooms and suites provide comfortable amenities, including bathroom toiletries by Italian fashion designer Missoni and distinctive touches by architect Rodrigo de la Peña. Dramatic architectural elements such as huge canvas accents in geometric shapes and a central court with a hyacinth lily pond combine with clean interior design and contemporary, bold color accents. The roof-top bar boasts innovative “coctelería” (mixology) experiences, along with spectacular views of the Caribbean and Cozumel Island as a scenic backdrop. Onsite Nibs Restaurant dishes up gourmet food in a serene setting, while a rooftop pool provides a refreshing escape

How do you make sense of diverse, dizzying São Paolo? Talk to the people who make the sushi, spray the graffiti, and build the giant watermelons.

Once upon a time, Europe (mostly Switzerland, France, Belgium, and the UK) dominated the chocolate market and through aggressive marketing and downright colonialist extraction methods, became erroneously known for being the world’s experts on cacao, yet cacao came from South and Central America and didn’t grow anywhere near Europe. Recent years have seen the best chocolate rightfully return to the source where it originated—Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, and Venezuela, where a boom of quality chocolate has replaced reimported European milk chocolate sold to those cacao producing countries for generations. But Switzerland is back in the game with this excellent new chocolate shop by local food expert Dieter Meier and his patented cold pressed extraction method that brings out the botanicals and nuances of these sourced cacaos in ways other chocolate manufactures cannot. The results are Cuban, Bolivian, and Guatemalan single bean bars ranging from white to 80% dark that are unlike anything else on the market. The tiny shop overlooking the Limmat River opened in December 2017 and is not cheap, but worth every rappen for its exquisite expression of flavors.

Set on the grounds of a cacao plantation turned hotel, Boucan’s open-air restaurant is just one more fine-dining option with impressive views, in this case, St. Lucia’s verdant hills and Petit Piton. But the difference between Boucan and the others is that Boucan offers a menu informed by its immediate surroundings, throwing a hint of cacao into many of the dishes. Chocolate balsamic vinegar, cacao butter dip, chocolate onion soup—a meal here is a unique experience. Dessert, of course, is divine; opt for the molten chocolate cake. For more insight, ask for a walking tour around the plantation’s cacao groves. Better yet, sign up to take part in a tree-to-bar chocolate-making experience.

Smoothies go great with warm weather. This cozy little place is tucked in the back of the building—look for the cow by the front door on the little lane called Mills Place just before McCormick Alley. Juice Farm’s organic, cold-pressed beverages use the freshest and best raw ingredients, from fruits and veggies to cacao and bee pollen. They have a creative selection of smoothies, cold-pressed juices, wellness shots, and juice cleanses.

Hidden Xaman is a trip to the post-technology future, a mysterious, underground garden in the center of the urban jungle. Once you’re in—finding it takes some poking around—craft mixologists take the Mexican liquors you know and push them to the edge. The bartenders showcase rare ingredients like cempasúchil marigold, xoconostle prickly pear, and cacao, not to mention artisanal vinegars, spooky tinctures, and kombucha teas, presented in line with all-but-inscrutable pre-Hispanic names. Electro-shamanic beats from resident and guest DJs take you back to that lost weekend in Tulum. So hip it hurts but all are welcome.

Former interior designer and gallery owner Elisabetta Capei now presides over this shop near St. Peter’s Church. It specializes in artisan handmade Swiss and Italian chocolates. Among her highlights are chocolates by Reichmuth von Reding, a little-known producer whose super-smooth, velvety-tasting bars are made with single-origin cacao beans and are conched for up to 72 hours. In the back of the shop, there’s a small counter with just eight stools for drinking Elisabetta’s hot chocolate, which she whisks herself, making just four to five liters a day.

Voted one of the top restaurants in Lima, chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino’s modern Amazonian restaurant, Malabar, is worthy of the praise. From the à la carte menu, order the river snails with chorizo sausage and exotic, sweet-and-sour aguaje fruit, followed by the smoked duck with cacao sauce, avocado, and blue cheese. Or opt for the seasonal tasting menu featuring organic heart of palm salad with chestnut flour and paiche jungle fish with black hot peppers and nutty dale dale. In a city addicted to meat, Schiaffino’s vegetarian tasting menu is a delight. It includes black quinoa, Amazonian honey, and a starchy-sweet tuber dish translated as “seven textures of yucca.”

While wandering through Oaxaca‘s markets, you’ll probably spot large clay basins filled with a liquid that’s topped with a beige foam. This is tejate, a drink that dates back to pre-Hispanic times. It’s made with cocoa beans, maize, the seed of the mamey fruit, and a flower called “Rosita de Cacao.” All the ingredients are ground up to form a floury paste. The “tejatera” mixes it by hand while slowly adding water until it is completely mixed and a thick foam forms on the top. In Oaxaca city a great place to try tejate is La Flor de Huayapam. It’s a stall inside the Benito Juarez market. They have a counter and wooden stools so you can have a seat while you sample the concoction.

Jo and Chris Beaumont are expats from London who moved to Belize, to open a windsurfing and adventure sports business. They now own the Belize Chocolate Company, which produces the luxury chocolate line, Kakaw and numerous other cacao-based skincare, healthcare and cooking products. Their small shop on Barrier Reef Drive just steps from the beach in San Pedro seems like an expat’s dream. They certainly exhibit the kind of easy happiness that comes from providing a product everyone wants. The Belize Chocolate Company is a café and a store, so visitors can stop in and stay a while. When you do, make sure you seek out Jo or Chris. They are wonderful people, and their chocolate isn’t half bad either!

This unassuming adobe house in Santa Fe is home to one of the world’s ‘top ten places’ to drink chocolate. (Seriously. It ranks up there with anything in Europe or South America.) Walk the few blocks from the city’s central Plaza, open the door and inhale the pre-columbian fragrance of the eight or nine ‘drinking elixirs’ that will be swirling and ready to serve. Free samples will tempt and educate you... My wife lingered over the “Spanish” blend, sipping on a blend of chocolate, floral essence, coconut sugar and spices, while I had their version of “atole,” a traditional hearty breakfast drink made with blue corn masa, chocolate, honey, Mexican vanilla, and local chimayó chile pepper. But there’s more to cacao here than just drinking; the handmade truffles, caramels and mendiants are arrestingly good! The house-made agave caramels dusted with chile powder (again, from the beloved chimayó peppers from their namesake valley just north of the city) or topped with nuts from the pinyon pines so common in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo mountains--these are treats with a definite taste-of-place. Sip. Savor. Linger. Marvel.