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Argentina at a Gallop

From croc balls to mud crabs, Australia offers many dishes one might not at first consider food. But outback bushrangers have been hunting wild animals and raising livestock for generations, while indigenous people have lived off the plants and animals of Australia for thousands of years. Many restaurants and tours specialize in such cuisine, called “feral food” or “bush tucker,” depending on what it is. If you can’t hunt and gather yourself, hit up one of these iconic spots.

Emporium Hotel is a unique, award-winning urban sanctuary that embodies much of the stylish and sunny sensibility of Brisbane today. Sunlight fills its soaring lobby through oversized floor-to-ceiling windows, while its rooftop bar is one of Brisbane’s most popular spots to toast the city.

Each of the 143 rooms at this 5-star, luxury property are decked out in dreamy details—from handcrafted touches and marble bathrooms to Tom Dixon amenities and ultra-plush pillows.

Situated in the chic Emporium Precinct in the buzzing nightlife hotspot of Fortitude Valley, it’s also a great location if you want to be close to the CBD, Queen St Mall, nightlife and the best of Brisbane’s dining and arts scene.

The capital of the Northern Territory isn’t known for its shopping, but that doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be. Beyond Aboriginal artwork and market handicrafts, there are plenty of stylish boutiques to outfit travelers in fresh swimwear and modern Australian fashion. There are also precious local pearls, second-hand books, natural body products, and anything one could ever want made out of crocodile skin. These great boutiques deserve more than a window shop.

Australians didn’t invent drinking but they may have perfected it. The national love of a good drink meets the sunny climate and lively culture of Sydney and is elevated beyond a tin of Foster’s into something magical. We’re talking sunny warehouse spaces devoted to beer worship and harborside terraces serving experimental wines and sophisticated cocktail lounges full of enthusiastic patrons. Cheers, mate!

In search of a flightless, sex-crazed, and rarely seen parrot in a land once ruled by birds.

When Southern Ocean Lodge, the flagship property of Australian hotel brand Baillie Lodges, opened in 2008, it was Kangaroo Island’s first true luxury lodge, known for its cinematic spot atop grass-covered limestone cliffs, with curved guest suites facing the namesake seas. Surrounded on three sides by national parks, Southern Ocean Lodge connected travelers with Australia’s powerful natural landscapes. Then in early January 2020, wildfires consumed more than half of Kangaroo Island, reducing the ecological paradise to sandy hills and blackened branches. Southern Ocean Lodge was a casualty of the blaze.


As AFAR’s Katherine LaGrave reported in her feature on the island, rebuilding began in earnest in February 2022, with the goal of becoming more sustainable: “The new lodge will use 25 percent less energy than the original lodge, and diesel fuel consumption will be halved. There will be rainwater harvesting, reliance on a hybrid solar-and-battery system, and elevated boardwalks to minimize impact on the health of coastal plants. Smart landscaping will create a sort of buffer around the lodge.”



Along with the new sustainable choices, the lodge has replicated the footprint of the original property, with 25 guest rooms slightly reoriented to optimize sea views. A new ultra-premium suite, the Ocean Pavilion, has up to four bedrooms and bathrooms (or two separate suites) with an outdoor terrace and private pool. And the ever-popular main lodge still has a Great Room with a suspended fireplace and a deck with a plunge pool that juts toward the sea.

Lyons Cottage, built in 1925 on the corner of Knuckey Street and the Esplanade, is famous for being the first residence in Darwin built of stone. It originally housed executives from the British Australian Telegraph Company; today it’s a café and gallery run by Aboriginal Bush Traders, a nonprofit community initiative. Visitors can shop for artworks, jewelry, clothing and woven fabrics made by Aboriginal artists and artisans. The garden is a pleasant spot for coffee, tea or lunch under a frangipani tree. The café serves dishes made with indigenous produce, such as bush tomatoes and Kakadu plums. And the building’s history is preserved in a hologram exhibit that tells stories of the Overland Telegraph line, which first linked Australia to the rest of the world in 1872.

A bright space in Darwin’s Parap neighborhood, Nomad Art Gallery emphasizes limited-edition prints and collections produced by contemporary Australian Artists as well as Aboriginal art centers around Northern Australia. The focal point is cross-cultural collaborations between artists and master painters and etchers. In addition to the prints shown in exhibitions and sold online and through the shop, visitors can purchase textiles, books, and small sculptures.

Set on the western side of Circular Quay, the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia (MCA) is the country’s leading institution for modern art. While access to touring international exhibitions from the likes of Tatsuo Miyajima and Annie Leibovitz incurs an entrance fee, the permanent collection of more than 4,000 contemporary works by Australian and Torres Strait Islanders, from Gary Carsley to Lena Yarinkura—plus a rare collection of artist notebooks, music, letters, and sketches—is always free. Come on Wednesday night when the gallery is open until 9 p.m., or for the adults-only Art Bar on the last Friday of the month. The rooftop café offers occasional live music and DJs plus glittering views of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge after dark.

On a promontory within Bouddi National Park, overlooking a secluded bay and a short walk to an empty rust-red beach, Pretty Beach House lives up to its (classically understated Aussie) name. It’s hard to believe this intimate retreat is only a 90-minute drive from Sydney city center. Its location is spectacular and historic—spot the 2,000-year-old Aboriginal rock drawings on a nature walk nearby.

There are four guest pavilions, each outfitted with wood-burning fireplaces, deep-soaking clawfoot tubs, and sun-drenched decks overlooking Broken Bay and Angophora treetops (three have their own private plunge pools). Dining is included in the stay, and it’s exceptional: Celebrated chef Dean Jones takes freshly caught seafood and local produce and crafts them into modern Australian dishes, which you can enjoy anytime you like in the Beach House’s safari-chic dining room or poolside beneath the shady gums.

Islands trace the Great Barrier Reef up the northeastern coast of Australia, clustering in the clear blue waters known as the Whitsundays. There, nestled on Hamilton Island, Qualia has set a new standard for Australian tourism—and resorts worldwide. What is magical about Qualia, however, is not just the champagne on arrival, or the fact that some rooms have their own plunge pools. The winning feature here is how perfectly the resort fits into the natural beauty of the island, almost disappearing into the eucalyptus trees of the surrounding rain forest. Understated and sophisticated, Qualia fosters a sensitive connection to the environment, allowing guests to experience Australia without all the usual tourist fanfare.

Rooms look through natural bushland out to the water and surrounding islands, where dolphins are frequently spotted. They also come with their own electric golf carts, which guests can use to tour the entire island. In the epic Long Pavilion, floor-to-ceiling windows on the seaward side open to an infinity pool, while glass windows at the other end offer views of the resort’s bright tropical landscaping.

Founder’s Note: Uncommon Travels

Find cool pieces by an array of new and noteworthy Australian brands at this small concept store, founded to showcase independent designers in an artistic shopping environment. The Melbourne space stocks a monthly edit of men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, with original and limited-edition pieces by around 100 local lines. With so many unique options on offer, you’ve got an excellent chance of finding something that perfectly suits your aesthetic, be it a little black dress by Ella Fashion, or attention-grabbing earrings by Plain Janes. If you can’t find what you’re looking for downtown, you can always check out the other Design a Space locations in Fitzroy and Windsor—the selection is different at each store.

The craft cookies, cakes, and ice cream churned daily here from local milk and fruit are as creative as they come. Ask for a nostalgic Australian treat, and you might be offered a Mit Mat (a ganache-filled play on the Tim Tam), a Ro-Vo (a room-temperature spin-off of an iced VoVo), or a Jatz pie (like a caramel slice topped with a mosaic of Arnott’s Jatz crackers). The bloke behind the brilliance is none other than Alistair Wise, son of cookbook author Sally Wise, who spent a stint working with Gordon Ramsay. This emporium of happiness—and envy, to be sure—also whips up scrumptious savories including a mean scallop pie and a buttery poached chicken “sanger” with bacon, lettuce, hummus, mayo, and hard-boiled egg.