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From 1883 to 1926, Claude Monet lived in this pink stucco house in Giverny, where he cultivated his flower and water gardens and painted his famous Water Lilies series. Visitors to the house will find it just as Monet left it, complete with an all-yellow dining room and blue-tiled kitchen. You can tour everything from the sitting room, pantry, and studio to the bedrooms, dining room, and kitchen, then head outside to wander the gardens and see the famous arched bridge. Though you won’t find any of Monet’s paintings on-site, you can view his collection of 46 Japanese prints, and shop in the gift store, which is located in his old studio. When you get hungry, there’s also a café with healthy dishes and a spacious outdoor terrace.

Every Wednesday morning in my neighborhood near Fatih Mosque, the traffic disperses, the roads are closed, plastic canopies are strewn from building to building, and thousands of stalls bursting with color and produce are set up across several blocks. It’s my favorite day of the week because not only do I get to rub shoulders with the locals, I can also grab a bargain of fruit and vegetables, cheeses, olives, herbs, spices, kitchen odds and ends, clothes, shoes, bags and haberdashery. Not all the fashions are geared to the western tastes, but wandering through the makeshift open-air markets is highly entertaining as vendors compete over offering the cheapest bargains with the loudest voice. It’s also an opportunity to better understand how the locals live—just keep in mind that the market is in a somewhat conservative neighborhood, so dress modestly to avoid becoming the main attraction.

On the banks of the Macal River, at the edge of downtown San Ignacio, you’ll find a sprawling Saturday market where everything from shoes and clothing to housewares and fresh produce is for sale. Local people shop for supplies and gather to catch up on gossip at the food stalls. The market is somewhat divided between produce sellers and souvenir vendors, but as the market has grown, the separation seems to have floundered a bit. Leave enough time to wander every aisle and stall to ensure no gem is left undiscovered. Locals recommend the tacos and pupusas as the best choices for lunch, and the snow cones topped with evaporated milk for a snack. Buses also park just next to the market in a dirt lot, so transportation is not difficult if you’re coming from outside of town.

One of the island’s best lookouts, Drake’s Seat offers a panoramic view of Magens Bay and the U.S. and British Virgin Islands to the east. The site is named for Sir Francis Drake, who is said to have kept watch over the harbor from this vantage point. (Was Drake benevolently watching over his own fleet or looking for ships to plunder? The answer will depend on whether you subscribe to the British’s regard of him as a celebrated explorer or to others’ belief that he was a brutal privateer.)

Praised by everyone from the James Beard Foundation to Anthony Bourdain to Esquire to RateBeer.com for its massive selection and delicious eats, the Porter Beer Bar is one place well worth a stop. The Porter opened in 2008 in a narrow space in Little Five Points. It boasts 44 beers on draft and over 700 bottled. The food is made by an award-winning chef, serving up upscale bar food. The portions are massive, particularly buffalo shrimp po boy with herb fries. It can rarely be said that everything on a menu is good, but the Porter may just be an exception.

This “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven” was once the heart of Korea. It was the power center of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897), and was originally built in 1395—some new digs for a new dynasty. Like the Forbidden City in Beijing, the palace is a complex of buildings—a throne hall, the king’s living quarters and more—a sort of city inside a city, accented by gardens and pavilions. The Japanese flattened the place in the 1590s, and the site remained a ruin until a complete reconstruction in 1867 brought back more than 500 buildings. At the Gwanghwamun Gate, soldiers, beautifully costumed in red robes, still perform the changing of the guard. Seoul has other palaces, but this is the one to see if your time in town is limited.

Although the city of Jeonju has been famous throughout Korea for centuries, it’s still not a commonly known destination for Western visitors. Recently designated as a UNESCO world “city of gastronomy,” Jeonju is definitely worth a several-day stay, and it’s an easy couple-hour-train-ride from Seoul. In addition to savoring local culinary specialties and wandering the traditional ‘hanok'-house neighborhoods with their galleries and boutiques, check out the chess and go-players on the benches just outside of the Gyeonggijeon shrine, on the corner about a block to the east of the venerable Jeondong cathedral. “Jang-gi” is the Korean version of Chinese chess, and “Ba-duk” is the local name of the game more widely known as “Go.” On sultry summer evenings, grab an ice-cream (red bean and melon are popular flavors) from across the street and then check out these neighborhood ‘haraboji’ (‘grandfather,’ the respectful term for older men), engrossed in strategy on the sidewalk of one of Korea’s most traditional cities.

Intricate textiles woven on looms handed down through generations. An array of laurel, olive, and lavender bath products and the hammered bowls to hold them. Silk shawls with which to drape the color of the Aegean in a graceful arc below bare shoulders. All organic and produced locally, with the specific intent of preserving a dying art. Jennifer’s Hamam works with traditional Turkish weavers to produce luxuriously looped Turkish towels, flat-woven pestamels (the towels and wraps used in hamams, similar to a sarong), and fine silks woven from hand-spun thread. Looms are passed from one generation to the next. New designs evolve over time. Part entrepreneur and part preservationist, Jennifer and her staff are generous with their knowledge and delight in sharing their affordable luxuries. Wander, shop, and emerge enlightened. Accessibility: A wheeled walker can easily maneuver the main path of the Arasta Bazaar.

Here’s a novel concept; markets that pop up around the island in different locations each day of the week. I shot this while wandering the Monday Market near Saladan Village (the main settlement) on the northern tip of Koh Lanta. Despite the market’s proximity to the island’s main tourist hub, it was surprisingly void of foreign visitors. The Monday Market is run by locals and caters to local tastes - which makes it a fantastic place to explore with a camera. I don’t often make images of children (I scare them, I guess), but I couldn’t resist firing a few frames of this girl in the fruit isle. It’s a departure from the grittier market fare I often come home with - perhaps that’s why I’m so fond of such a simple picture. Insider tip: a smile takes you a long way in a Thai market - and often leads to more free samples than you find at Costco on a Saturday. Be polite, and try anything your gracious host offers you, including roasted beetles and/or funky durian fruit.

On the North Shore of O‘ahu, Turtle Bay Resort is the only hotel of its caliber on this less developed part of the island. Set on a 1,300-acre property—half of which has been set aside permanently for conservation—the 408 rooms and suites all have ocean views and a neutral/blue palette inspired by the surrounding area. The resort’s commitment to environmental sustainability is palpable: Meals are prepared with leafy greens, beets, and other crops from the resort’s own Kuilima Farm, a plot of land five minutes from the hotel with a farm stand and “you-pick” self-harvesting days for locals. Meanwhile, the 18-hole golf course is maintained with gray water treated by the resort’s own plant.


The resort doubles as a wildlife sanctuary. A birding experience via electric golf cart led by Captain Scott Sundby, who runs Shaka Kayaks and has lived on the North Shore for 20 years, offers a glimpse at some of the wild residents. They include the ‘alae ‘ula, or Hawaiian common gallinule, which according to Hawaiian legend got its fiery red forehead from the gods, and Hawaiian monk seals, one of the world’s most endangered seal species. The coastline here is set within the Hawaiian Island Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, extending more than 1,200 nautical square miles; in the winter, it’s the site of humpback breeding, calving, and nursing.

Australian-Vietnamese celebrity chef Luke Nguyen has put his energy into creating fresh, modern, healthy renditions of Vietnamese street food and traditional family recipes at Moi Moi, his new Hong Kong restaurant. A master at balancing sweet and sour tastes as well as spicy and bitter, Nguyen gets big raves for his food, especially the panfried rice cakes topped with tiger prawns and caramelized pork neck. Other hits include green tea–smoked duck in rice-paper rolls, citrus wild salmon, caramelized Kurobuta pork belly, a pho made with raw Wagyu beef, and slow-braised free-range chicken drumsticks with coconut juice, fish sauce, ginger, and garlic. Moi Moi has an extensive and creative cocktail menu to accompany the feast.

With a great atmosphere and a packed room of locals, if you’re in the mood for Vietnamese food, you won’t go wrong here. Some swear by the pho and others by the gloriously crusty banh mi sub sandwiches, which come heaped high with grilled pork, herbs, salad, and a few slices of chili to add heat. And if you’re feeling greedy, I say do both.

A local institution, situated since 1953 in a 1692 adobe hacienda with brightly colored walls and a pretty courtyard, the Shed is deservedly famous for its smoky chile, just-hefty-enough blue corn tortillas, and classic recipes. Its sister restaurant, La Choza, is another local favorite. “We don’t have ambition to do a lot more,” says co-owner Courtney Carswell. “We just do what we do.” And they do it well.

Anything that you can imagine, made local and beautiful! Parts & Labour has been working with local crafty artists for many, many years, and the shop is truly like walking into a studio filled with one of a kind pieces. This is the ideal place to visit for a gift that says: “Austin” or for an original piece; whether it is jewelry, clothes or decorative pieces. Support Austin, support local!

by Fabrizia Lanza Within the Palace of the Normans, there’s a chapel of the kings. “It’s sumptuous,” Fabrizia says, “all covered with mosaics. It’s like getting inside a golden box of jewelry.” Piazza del Parlamento 1 This story appeared in the January/February 2011 issue.