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Pronounced cull-EE-la, this little-known distillery commands a picturesque position on the northeastern shores of Islay, overlooking the Sound of Islay and the Paps of Jura. Here, distillers tend to six copper stills, producing whisky for blended brands as well as their own peaty single malts. Visitors can tour the distillery to learn all about the whisky-making process, or enjoy a variety of tastings, from whisky and chocolate pairings to some of the distillery’s cask-strength expressions.

Old San Juan may look, at first glance, like a few other charming cities built during the height of Spanish colonialism—Havana or Santo Domingo, for example—but what sets it apart is the extent to which its architectural infrastructure from that era remains visible. It’s the only city that has its original colonial wall almost entirely intact, and both of its principal forts are in excellent condition, remain accessible to the public, and offer panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean (so bring your camera). Both El Morro and Fuerte San Cristobal are run by the National Park Service; guided tours will leave you with greater knowledge about the era, as well as the forts’ construction and their role in Puerto Rican history. (There are other, smaller forts in and around the capital, next to the Caribe Hilton, and in Luís Muñoz Rivera Park, plus Fort San Juan de la Crúz in the nearby town of Cataño.)

Cape Town’s Table Mountain National Park, which hugs the perimeter of the city, is so popular that the line for the cable car to the top can be longer than a queue for a Disneyland ride. But why stand in line when you can put your feet to use? There are several routes that lead to the top of the 3,562-foot, flat-topped mountain, including the two-mile Platteklip Gorge trail. Yes, it’s steep, but startling views of the city and the Atlantic await. Trek, get hungry, then picnic on local provisions—crackers, Dutch-style Gouda, and biltong, the thick-sliced South African jerky—before riding the cable car back down.

Once summer has arrived in all her glory, city folk yearn to escape the concrete jungle. The cheap and chic solution for locals is to pack a picnic and head for a beach day on the Toronto Islands, just a short ferry ride away. Of the three primary islands, all of which are connected by paths and bridges, Centre Island boasts the highest number of visitors; people head straight to its main strip to get to the beach and the amusement park. Ward’s Island offers more charm: In addition to the sandy shore, there are small summer cottages and gardens. Those intent on exercise can rent bicycles or paddleboats.

Two of the cooks who worked with me at Nahm in London opened a dinner-only spot named Bo.lan. Bo and Dylan prepare traditional but often hard-to-find dishes, such as stir-fried chicken thighs with bamboo shoots, and red curry of pork hock. —David Thompson

New Mexico has the reputation for 364 days of sunshine every year. But occasionally it snows a lot, blanketing and softening the rocky scenery New Mexico is so famous for. Ghost Ranch is a conference center about 50 miles northwest of Santa Fe, made famous by Georgia O’Keeffe, who lived in Abiquiu for many years and painted almost every formation with her unique style. You can stay at Ghost Ranch or nearby Abiquiu in one of several B&Bs. For more information, consult the Ghost Ranch website.

Mollusk is a neighborhood surf shop that sells clothing and great boards. They carry my surfboards and handplanes [for body surfing]. They occasionally host art shows and live music. The shop is sort of like the cornerstone of the Sunset. 4500 Irving St., (415) 564-6300, mollusksurfshop.com. This story appeared in the January/February 2012 issue.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

With more than 250 acres of grounds, the New York Botanical Garden manages to fit a number of different landscapes and experiences into its garden walls. The garden was established in 1891, the inspiration of Nathaniel Lord Britton and his wife, Elizabeth, who returned from a trip to England determined that New York should have its own equivalent to London‘s Kew Gardens. They found backing among New York society and created one of the country’s leading research institutions that also happens to be an ideal place to commune with nature right in the city. The rose garden designed by Beatrix Farrand is a highlight, while an abundance of azaleas reaches their peak in May. In all there are some 20 different gardens, including one dedicated to native plants, a rock garden, and a wetlands trail. The conservatory, constructed in 1902, is the largest in the country and includes 11 different climatic zones. When the last of the fall foliage has fallen from the trees, the conservatory hosts the popular annual Holiday Train Show (from the end of November to mid-January).

The vibe in Waikiki is the most frenetic of all the spots in the islands, but there is an escape. The scene at the current iteration of the classic Hawaiian hangout, Duke’s, is a step back even by Oahu standards. Best approached via the beach to enhance the original feel and avoid the mall-like carnival from the street entrance, this is the kind of bar that welcomes sand on your flips. Slip in for happy hour and be prepared to jockey for a spot. Even with the crowd, the music, the food, the drinks are all designed draw you back to a simpler time when Duke was still riding the longboard. I’m partial to the beers and french fries, but will never refuse a fish taco. With a long relationship with the Kona Brewing brand, I opt for the Longboard larger or Fire Rock Pale ale. The umbrella drinks don’t disappoint, but neither do the gin and tonics. The local musical talent that ply the stage at Duke’s are traditional Hawaiian in style and like to keep the island theme front and center. There is a family vibe to the musical community, much like the rest of Hawaiian culture, and it’s not unusual to get a sibling or cousin to come up on stage and do some traditional Hawaiian dance or help out on a song or two. There was an 8 year old girl that got asked to come up on one of our visits and she blew the crowd away! The strip a Waikiki can be a bit daunting in terms of relaxation, but Duke’s remains my refuge from the madness. Aloha.

(Note: Google insists this is Kamuela, it is Kohala) The lava coast of Kohala on the Big Island is dramatic. Waves dash against the black rocks relentlessly until eons from now they will be sand. True, there are fewer white-sand beaches per square foot of land on the Big Island than others in the Hawaiian chain, but the island is huge. Beaches here often hold secrets, are the sources of legends, and are part of the circle of life for creatures indigenous to Hawaii. There have been lava flows since the ahapua’a land divisions were formed, but from the very tops of the mountains running to the sea, most beaches remain intact. One of my favorites is in a little inlets fronting the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel on Makaiwa Bay called Keiki Beach. Not for much swimming, it is a sandy-bottomed dipper’s delight or, as the name states, a place for children (keiki) to play in. A tree for shade, sand, tide pools to explore, a canoe house (hale) covering a koa canoe nearby, and a friendly turtle (honu) who feeds here are all part of what could be a perfect day. There is surf off the point in winter and snorkeling in other seasons. You might even want to rinse off and have lunch at the Mauna Lani pool restaurant. Parking is a good 15 minute walk via a trail. Follow signs to public parking off Mauna Lani Drive, bring water and beach gear, and get there early. Of course you could stay at the Mauna Lani Hotel and Bungalows too. http://www.maunalani.com/

Deemed the second-smallest Catholic church in the world by the Guinness Book of World Records in 1983, St. Francis by the Sea clocks in at just 1,008 square feet, with room for just 42 people at Sunday mass. While it’s certainly diminutive, it more than makes up for its size in charm. In addition to hosting regular services, the church is home to the National “Sick Call” Set Museum, which features kits from as far back as the 1880s that were used to perform last rites. In the choir loft, visitors can peruse everything from crucifixes and bowls for holy water to devotional items like statues, then head downstairs to ogle the church’s beautiful stained-glass windows and wood-beamed ceilings. Though St. Francis doesn’t hold regular hours, guests are welcome following Sunday mass or during larger Laguna Beach tours.

Located along the Mississippi riverfront, the Mill City Museum rises eight stories from the limestone ruins of what was once the world’s largest flour mill. Today, this National Historic Landmark houses antique milling equipment, vintage advertising, and exhibitions on the wheat farms, and visitors can ride the grain elevator, watch a movie about Minneapolis’s humble beginnings, learn how the Mississippi River powered all the local mills, and sample freshly made treats in the Baking Lab. There’s also an observation deck with panoramic views over the city, and the Ruin Courtyard, which hosts events and live music throughout the year. When hunger strikes, head to the on-site restaurant, Bushel & Peck, for lunch fare like burgers, sandwiches, and salads.

Just 30 minutes from the bustling tourist towns of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge sits this secluded bed-and-breakfast surrounded by 200 forested acres. Accommodations at Christopher Place are intended for couples rather than families: Nine individually decorated rooms, four with in-room hot tubs for two and several with fireplaces, have only one bed, and children younger than 12 aren’t allowed.

You can savor in-room breakfasts and dinners in a few of the rooms; everyone else can enjoy meals at the Mountain View Restaurant, which serves an affordable, seasonal four-course menu with a backdrop that’s just as satisfying. Hearty breakfasts will gird you for a full day of exploring Great Smoky Mountains National Park, or just hiking the trails outside the resort’s front door. Return for a dip in the pool, then a cocktail or glass of wine in front of a roaring fire at Marston’s Library Pub, named after the property’s owner.

Far from Juneau’s cruise crowd, this secluded oasis is popular with honeymooners—and the appeal is clear. Situated inside Tongass National Forest, its 10 rooms and suites come furnished with cozy fireplaces, while two offer a private balcony overlooking a small glacial kettle pond. The serenity extends to the inn’s rain-forest garden, dotted with a wooden footbridge, three gazebos, a sauna, and two hot tubs surrounded by lush Sitka spruce and hemlock trees. Those looking to experience local floes don’t have to venture far. It’s a mere eight-minute drive to the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center. Expect phenomenal views of the 13-mile-long river of ice and the lofty peaks of Southeast Alaska’s Coast Mountains, along with miles of hiking trails that meander past cascading waterfalls and salmon streams.