Search results for

At the top of the Campuhan ridge is a perfectly located spa and cafe called Karsa where at the end of a trek up the ridge you can have a drink, a massage, and even a little nap. This is not the most luxurious spa in Bali, but the staff are lovely and the view is absolutely breathtaking. If you don’t want to get sweaty walking up the ridge before you go to the spa you can also drive up, or even better get a driver to drop you at the top so you can have your treatment and then walk back down into Ubud. There is a helpful map of the ridge walk and spa on Karsa’s website: www.karsaspa.com

Warung Bodag Maliah, often just called Sari Organik is a fabulously simple spot with a view to die for about 2km up a twisty ricefield path to the north of Jalan Raya, Ubud. The menu features a rainbow of fruits and vegetables from the Sari Organik farm, where you can visit and buy produce, just a couple of rice paddies away. The juices, lassies and health elixers menu is a work out just to decide what to drink, so between that, the delicious fresh food and the walk up there, you’ll come out feeling fresh as a daisy.

Teeny-tiny but perfectly formed, Pica South American Kitchen is one of the stars of Ubud’s burgeoning foodie scene. It’s simple, modern interior and social vibe makes it an excellent place to go with friends and share plates of gorgeously flavorful food created by Chilean native Cris and his small team. Sourcing much of their produce locally, Cris and partner Monica deliver mahi-mahi, barramundi, sweet potato and other local fruits and vegetables in ways you have never tasted before. The ceviches with the traditional Peruvian leche de tigre, the vibrant marinade packed with lemon, chili, thinly sliced onion and the juices of the fish, are like no other ceviche I’ve ever tasted and are one of the must order dishes. You’ll also want the Bife Ancho, a melt-in-the-mouth rib-eye steak in 8-hour reduced jus. Don’t forget the large glass of red…and someone to drive you home in your blissful state. With a maximum of 28 diners at a time, you’ll want to book well in advance to avoid disappointment.

Just South of Ubud in the village of Singakerta are some of the most talented wood carvers on the island of Bali. In this village in the myriad of carving workshops you can buy everything from tiny detailed dancers to full sized Komodo dragons. The skill of carving is generally passed down the male side of the family, but women are also involved in the smoothing and polishing of the carvings and you’ll probably meet them sitting outside chatting while they work. Many of the shops sell basic souvenir style carvings, which are generally a bit cheesy, but there are also more original pieces lurking in the background as well. Many of the carvers will give half day lessons if you ask, so don’t be shy to learn a little while you’re there as well.

Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets is a free museum tucked away in a small village about 5 minutes outside Ubud. Created by a businessman with a beautiful collection of puppets and masks from all over Indonesia, and many other countries, the space is more private house than museum and has a very relaxed and welcoming feel to it. The staff are extremely knowledgeable and usually have time to talk you through the collection and answer questions. If you’re lucky enough to be in Bali when Setia Darma is holding a cultural performance, don’t miss it. The dances and shadow puppet plays they hold are the real deal, not just for tourists. Check the website for upcoming events www.setiadarma.org

If you didn’t know before you dug into your meal, you might not realize that every item on Sage’s menu is vegan (a nice bonus for parents eating with kids). The jackfruit or tempeh tacos are so good many devoted carnivores choose to get their Mexican food fix here over local nonvegan Mexican joints. Sage also makes excellent vegan burgers, potato flautas, and salads filled with great crunchy textures and pops of flavor. Follow lunch or dinner with a slice of coconut cake or vegan birthday cake ice cream.

The wax resist dying technique of batik is one of the symbols of Indonesian culture. Although it actually came from Java to Bali with the Majapahit Kingdom in the 14th Century, the Balinese now consider it as much part of their culture as the Javanese. You can find beautiful batiks all over Bali but one of the most impressive batik makers in Bali is Pak Tjok Agung who has a workshop and small shop in his home village of Pejeng near Ubud. This isn’t on the main tourist trail and purposefully so. Pak Tjok uses natural fibers and dyes and local workers to try to support the local community without the need for tourist dollars, which makes Pak Tjok’s textiles sustainable as well as stunning. Pak Tjok’s workshop is about 15 minutes north east of Ubud in the village of Pejeng. www.tjokagung-indigo.com

Balinese people have taken ritual baths in the waters of Tirta Empul since it was founded in 962. The waters are believed to have healing powers, both physically and spiritually, so people come from all over the island to purify themselves under spouts of cool water in the long stone pools. Worshipers place offerings or say a prayer at each of the spouts from west to east. Nonworshipers can bathe, too, and the experience can be very moving (be aware that the last of the spouts in the first pool are reserved for purification after funerary rites). As at any Balinese temple, you must be respectful of Hindu rules and traditions. Menstruating women should not go inside any temple, and all visitors must wear a sarong and sash while on temple grounds, even while bathing. Men can go shirtless in the pools. There are changing rooms, so don’t forget to bring an extra set of clothes. Tirta Empul, 25 minutes outside of Ubud, is very close to Gunung Kawi, another religious site worth a visit.

Down To Earth on Jalan Goutama Selatan, just off Jalan Hanoman, sells itself as a whole lifestyle brand, catering mostly to expat families who want the same organic produce and eco friendly products they are used to back at home. Part shop, part cafe, Down To Earth serves delicious salads, Middle Eastern inspired dishes,wraps and fantastic raw (and cooked) desserts. If you are staying a while, they also have a daily organic veg delivery service.

If you call ahead and make reservations, you can still eat lunch at the “Big Table” with the staff at John Hardy’s Jewelry compound outside of Ubud. With a showroom built entirely of bamboo, surrounded by rice fields and a state-of-the-art factory, the compound plus the nearby Green School, which Hardy founded to train citizens for the 21st century, is a must-see.

Just outside Gelgel and Klungkung, which were the seats of the Majapahit Kingdom from the 15th until the second half of the 17th century, is the village of Kamasan. This village was and is still of great cultural importance to the Balinese as it has been the core of Balinese traditional arts for the past 600 years. It is most famous for its painters, who have been painting in the ‘Kamasan style’ for many generations. This style is derived from the Javanese style that came to Bali with the Majapahit Kingdom and is now the basis for all traditional Balinese styles. You can tour the village and chat to the painters in their workshops and also buy directly from them. There are also textile workshops and silversmiths in the village you can visit. Kamasan is about 40 minutes from Ubud or 1 1/2 hours from Kuta or Seminyak.

When he sold his jewelry company in 2007, Canadian expat John Hardy and his wife reinvested much of the money into the Green School, an innovative K-12 school in Sibang Kaja, Bali. The curriculum is very experiential—the international and Balinese students learn everything from aquaculture to Balinese puppetry. Named greenest school of 2012 by the U.S. Green Building Council, the school is worth a visit if only to see the far-out architecture. Many of the complex buildings are constructed entirely of bamboo.

Bali is the perfect place to learn a new way of traveling. Rather than racing from temple to batik factory, and the 4:15 shadow puppet show, my traveling companion opted for the 45 minute pacing of stopping for beers along the back roads. The rice terraces in Tegalalang are possibly one of the most gorgeous places in the world to hoist a Heineken (or a football sized coconut water) Descend about 50 steps to a perfect viewing platform with tables, and umbrellas because a little drizzle is par for the course on January days. The rice terraces are equal parts engineering marvel, natural miracles, and pure art.

One of the best places to watch the sun set is from the cliffs of Pura Luhur Uluwatu, or the site of the old Uluwatu Temple on the island of Bali. The dramatic cliffs overlook the ocean, and arriving before sunset allows you to explore before dark. The temple grounds are inhabited by a large number of monkeys, which are fun to watch but can be aggressive, so avoid wearing sunglasses or jewelry and bringing food, and be careful with your camera. Expect to wear a provided sarong over your pants/skirt/shorts, which is a sign of respect at religious sites in Indonesia (true here for men and women). At one end of Uluwatu, the rhythmic Kecak dance is performed nightly at sunset, and if you plan to stay, expect a crowd. Uluwatu is easily reached by car from most places on the southern part of the island. Drivers can be hired from hotels or villas.

If you’re looking for tropical tranquillity, bypass Maui’s buzzy resort enclaves and head away from the coast to the island’s laid-back Upcountry, where you’ll find Lumeria. At the 24-room wellness retreat, visitors can start the day with a guided sunrise meditation, then strengthen their yoga practice, learn to hula or surf, and go snorkeling off the North Shore. Spa treatments include Hawaiian massage and acupuncture as well as nontraditional therapies like crystal healing and shaman-led journeys. The schedule is flexible, so you’ll have plenty of time to learn about Hawaii’s paniolo (cowboy) culture or just take in the ocean views from your private lanai. Guest rooms feature art by local Maui artists, four-poster beds topped with organic linens, and stone-tile showers stocked with Aveda products, while the Wooden Crate restaurant prepares farm-to-table meals with nearly 200 types of fruits and vegetables that grow on the property.