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After years at its original, jewel-box-like (and maybe even a little solemn) location, the city’s high temple of Mexican regional cuisine has moved to a more expansive—some say more relaxed—space. It includes more light, a bar area for “taco omakase,” and large windows overlooking the garden, plus a groovy, midcentury accent that might recall Manhattan’s late, lamented Four Seasons restaurant. Changes aside, diners can still count on a six-section prix fixe menu, with each section home to multiple bites involving an astounding variety of local ingredients that even most Mexicans have never tasted, all exquisite enough to have placed Pujol on several best-restaurants lists for years running. And yes, you still get a taste of chef Enrique Olvera’s mole madre, well over a thousand days in the pot as of this writing.

If there’s one night to slide into a booth at this casual diner inside the hip Ace Hotel & Swim Club, make it a Monday. That’s when the place is transformed by the unmissable presence of 90-year-old ex-showgirl Shirley Claire, who sings and brings a healthy dose of razzle-dazzle as she hosts Fabulous Bingo. In fact, most nights of the week have a theme—see Tuesday karaoke at the adjacent Amigo Room bar, half-off wine bottles on Wednesday, and Taco Jueves—so making reservations is a good idea, but not a must. If you wind up waiting for a table, grab an Orange You Glad To See Me—made with gin, orange, Chareau, and lime—and pop into the photo booth. With its stone wall, leather booths, and globe pendant lights, the diner (a former Denny’s) embraces the spirit of the sixties, while the menu offers a distinctly Californian twist on Southwestern and Mexican fare. Must-orders: For breakfast (served until 2 p.m.), opt for the desert classic Date Shake and Huevos Rancheros, made with California- and Coachella Valley–sourced ingredients. For dinner, try the Grilled Mahi Mahi Tacos or Desert Highway Burgers, and request the pickled jalapeños for added kick.

The Palais Garnier, the national opera house of Paris, is a magnificent building dripping in ornate details and glittering with gold. The five-ton chandelier, made famous in The Phantom of the Opera, still takes center stage in the auditorium. It is surrounded by a swirling, colorful ceiling painting by Marc Chagall. The decoration goes beyond the auditorium: The grand foyer rivals the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, and the grand staircase is an entryway fit for royalty. You don’t need to buy a ticket to the opera to see the space: Tours are given daily in a variety of languages.

Few call this restaurant by its actual long and somewhat odd name, preferring simply Happy Valley Dim Sum or Dim Sum in Happy Valley. Look for the green retro sign with the words Dim Sum running vertically in gold under big red Chinese characters. This cozy 1950s-style Shanghai café—with snug wooden booths under old movie posters—serves some of the best dim sum in Hong Kong. Order from a menu that includes lots of vegetarian options as well as panfried shrimp and chive dumplings, lobster and shrimp dumplings, and fried rice rolls with soy sauce.

Set within a century-old, Pantheon-inspired former bank building, the Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia raises Center City living to classical heights. When the building opened in 1904, the Girard Trust marble dome was the largest in the country, and its columns and styling matched its inspiration down to its oculus 142 feet from the floor, the exact height as the Roman original. Today, every stay starts in this grandiose rotunda, where staff man the immaculately preserved bank-teller booths. Guest rooms and suites are in the attached 30-story office tower, gutted and transformed into a hotel by Ritz-Carlton.

All 299 rooms and suites bring classic Ritz-Carlton elegance, with wood furnishings matching gold, sage, and pumpkin hues. High ceilings and picture windows with stunning city views enhance the vibe, while spa-style marble bathrooms have rain showers.

The largest luxury hotel in the city, the Charleston Place takes up a full city block with entrances on King and Meeting streets; the latter leads to the grand lobby, with its imperial open-arm staircase, 12-foot crystal chandelier, and Italian marble floors. Its 433 large guest rooms have old-fashioned Southern details like mahogany and damask furnishings. The hotel’s lower level houses fine-dining restaurant Charleston Grill, an attractive hotel bar, a large indoor saltwater pool with a retractable glass roof, and a shopping arcade with designer stores. The hotel recently began a $150 million renovation but will remain open as the property is upgraded from stem to stern.

Reykjavík’s old harbor, built between 1913 and 1917, has seen quite the transformation in recent years, morphing from a mainly functional area dominated by ships and their fishermen to a lively, modern tourism area that’s almost a new city district of its own. The sparkling, award-winning Harpa concert hall and conference center has dominated the area since it opened in 2011, and several restaurants and cafés, along with offices, now line the harbor promenade, interspersed with the occasional cultural spot such as the fascinating Reykjavík Maritime Museum. The boats, trawlers, and whaling ships are still there, of course, and remain a big part of the atmosphere, but they’re today joined by a number of tourist boats offering whale-watching and puffin tours.

The rainy or cold weather can make walking down the famous Strøget in Copenhagen, Denmark in the off-season a little tiring. There’s a little bit of magic just off the main walking street in the form of the Royal Cafe. The high pink walls and large windows let in a lot of light, which reflects off the artfully placed mirrors and display glasses. Rest on funky-patterned seats at small or large community tables and order a coffee or a custom smørrebrød known as a “Smushie” to warm up.

Designed by Oscar Niemeyer and Roberto Burle Marx, this expansive park was meant to be an improvement to Central Park in New York City. Home to an impressive amphitheater, museums, water bodies, and lots of paths with some impressive landscaping, it’s well worth a visit. Come for a stroll, jog, picnic, open air concert or bike voyage on a Sunday. Various food vendors are strewn throughout with agua de coco and snacks. It’s best to check the website for events if you’ll be visiting on a weekend.

The Old Man and the Sea in Savaneta is an ideal place for a romantic island dining experience, amid the ‘clicking palms,’ overlooking the water. Feel the sand beneath your feet, and listen to the waves gently lapping the shoreline as you enjoy a sunset supper in an intimate setting.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes. ~ Marcel Proust. For my inaugural highlight on AFAR, I am starting with my wife’s favorite quote, and a local sight in Chicago. Sometimes people feel they must jet off to some far off exotic place in order to ‘travel.’ However, if you gaze anew at your immediate surroundings with fresh eyes, you will discover an entire host of wonderful surprises. Here we have Cloud Gate, located down in Millennium Park, back before they buffed out the seams. The contrast between the organic form of ‘the bean’ and the structured grid lines, along with the warped fun house mirror quality of the city, makes this a truly unique destination.

The beach may be the magnet that draws crowds to Trancoso but its the Quadrado that is the heart of the town. The town square sits atop a hilltop offering stunning views of the mangrove forest and sea below. The 1,050-feet-long green park is anchored by the town’s iconic white church and bordered by 50 or so Crayola-colored old fisherman houses. During the day most of the homes stay shuttered due to the heat. But by 5pm, particularly during the peak summer season, they open their doors to reveal chic boutiques and art galleries, restaurants, and pousadas like Uxua and El Gordo. At sunset wild horses graze in the square sometimes interrupt the local kids’ soccer game. The square is filled with crowds after sunset, and artists and artisans come out to sells their goods while musicians come to play music and capoiera dancers come entertain passersby.

Sometimes overshadowed by more glamorous southern French cities, Montpellier comes as a surprise to many visitors when they stroll its lovely medieval old town, filled with boutiques and bistros, and with the vibrancy of university life in the air. In an enormous renovated mansion, the Musée Fabre has vaulted to major-art-museum status with a collection of French masters like Poussin and painters from the Fauvist movement, as well as a notable decorative arts collection.

Before you even leave for Telluride, the staff at Madeline Hotel & Residences can help you arrange itineraries, transfers, and equipment rentals or book activities like snowmobile tours and alpine hikes. Once you arrive, however, you might be content to never leave the property. Guests can get acclimated with an altitude oxygen treatment at the spa, browse the 80 original paintings chosen by the in-house art curator, or find their Zen during a yoga class at the fitness center. There’s also an outdoor heated pool, a kids’ club with games and movies, and the Black Iron Kitchen and Bar, which serves local comfort food like Colorado bison chili and warm Camembert with honey and figs. Outdoor fire tables offer the perfect place for après-ski cocktails but the Madeline’s pièce de résistance is its Sky Terrace—a 9,500-square-foot outdoor lounge with fire pits and two hot tubs. Should you actually tear yourself away from the hotel, you can take the nearby gondola to Telluride’s nightlife and shopping, or use the slope-side valet to get on the mountain quicky and easily.

The Madeline is surrounded on three sides by the San Juan mountains, so many of the guest rooms offer stunning views. They also feature contemporary but comfortable furnishings, plus access to a “bath barista,” who will draw you a customized soak in your spacious tub. Suites have heated bathroom floors and a separate living area with a kitchenette and gas fireplace, while residences include full kitchens, laundry facilities, and balconies.

Why we love it: A design-savvy boutique hotel with direct beach access

The Highlights:
- Bright design that’s full of personality
- A focus on exploring the hotel’s natural surroundings
- Direct access to pristine Seven Mile Beach

The Review:
A welcome departure from the classic Negril resort scene, this stylish boutique hotel—opened in 2018—melds local flavor, a vintage Havana feel, and a contemporary sensibility in a way that speaks to the curious, independent traveler. Set along 220 pristine feet of Seven Mile Beach, the hotel features a clean-lined, mid-century modern-inspired aesthetic throughout, accented by bright textiles, artwork, and a curated soundtrack that celebrates the history of Jamaican music.

Room options range from studios set on the second floor of the accommodation wing, to options with patios or balconies looking out at either the garden or the ocean. All have air conditioning, USB outlets, Bluetooth radio, free Wi-Fi, and mini-bars. Skylark is big on encouraging guests to explore the area, whether that means taking advantage of the direct beach access (the hotel provides loungers, paddleboards, snorkeling gear, and beach games, plus food and beverage service), going for a boat ride, hiking to a waterfall, or zip-lining through the jungle.