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AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent writer Jonathan Gold on a spontaneous journey to Prague with just 24 hours’ notice.

São Paulo is one of the world’s largest cities and the largest city in South America. It’s also home to huge Japanese and Italian populations (a result of immigration in the early 20th century as São Paulo was an important part of the coffee industry). The city is known for its variety of food, nightlife, and culture, including art and museums. It’s also a great place to experience Brazil’s indoor and outdoor markets and see some very cool architecture thanks to Oscar Niemeyer’s work here.

Far above the plains where lions roam, there’s another Kenya, where life moves slowly and the people run fast. Writer Matt Gross tries to keep up.

Ranging from historic riads to big-name resorts, hotels in the Red City are as magical as you’d imagine, with unique amenities like luxurious hammams, central courtyard pools, and rooftop terraces with sweeping views of the Atlas Mountains. Whether you want a place with mint tea, traditional Moroccan décor, or a restaurant once frequented by Winston Churchill, you can find it here, all in close proximity to attractions like the Jardin Majorelle, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Djemaa el Fna Square, Bahia Palace, and the Saadiens Tombs.

I love exploring the markets in São Paulo. There are many, some big and some small, but my latest discovery is the big one on Sundays in Praça da República in the center of the city, very close to the famous Italian and Copan buildings. This lively market takes place around one of the city’s historic buildings. Artisans sell their work, and there’s a nice selection of handicrafts, jewelry, and other typically Brazilian goods for sale. There is a large food area with tables, live music, and vendors selling traditional Brazilian street food, including the specialties of Bahia. If you take the subway, get off at the Republica station. The market takes place during the first half of the day on Sundays.

If you ever find yourself in Lencois, Brazil, make your way about 40 miles west for one spectacular view. Located in Chapada Diamantina National Park, Pai Inacio Hill is just off BR-242 and can easily be seen from the road. The striking white stone and the majestic appearance of this natural rock formation is compelling enough to make anyone want to stop and explore. It is a relatively easy 20 minute hike to the summit, and once you arrive you will see that it is worth every step. Standing atop Pai Inacio, with the sun and wind greeting your face, you will bear witness to the valley that unfolds below you. It appears to go on forever, and that is about how long you will want to stay and take in the awe-inspiring view.

After hearing so much about the huge Municipal Market in downtown Sao Paulo, I was excited to visit a slightly smaller version in Lapa, one of Sao Paulo’s central districts. I wanted to see not just the array of food but also Brazilians going about their daily routines. The market didn’t disappoint.

Like their European counterparts, Brazil’s indoor markets serve as a one-stop shop where people can eat, drink coffee, and buy fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and even gifts. During my two visits to this market, I watched as salted cod and huge Kalamata olives were chosen for a Sunday feast. I tasted cheeses and bought fresh fruits. I waited while my in-laws picked out party decorations. I watched vendors busily working and yelling to each other. I also watched vendors stop and interact with my children, and I chatted with old women about my kids--Brazilians love kids and enjoy conversation.

For a slice of Brazilian life and a close-up view of Brazilian food, this locals-only market is worth a stop.

Anyone who has been to Brazil knows that the country has fantastic open-air markets, known as feiras in Portuguese. They often feature a combination of handicrafts, antiques, live music, dancing, and street food. The market on Saturdays at Praça Benedito Calixto in São Paulo is no exception, but this one is almost unknown to tourists. Older Paulistanos (as Sao Paulo residents are called) sell beautiful antiques that reflect the city’s cultural ties to Europe. Artisans sell colorful woven clothing, handmade leather shoes, jewelry made from açaí seeds, baskets and mobiles made from recycled magazines, and much more. In the center of the market is a square of food and drink vendors, selling food from Northeastern Brazil, dried fruits, coconut water, and other typical Brazilian street food. In the early afternoon, live chorinho music begins and the square soon fills with people dancing. This outdoor market is much more than a place for people to shop—it’s a place for people to relax and have fun. The market runs every Saturday 9:00 a.m.-7:00 p.m. The streets surrounding the market have many good restaurants, and the neighboring street of Teodoro Sampaio is known for its shops selling traditional Brazilian musical instruments. There are parking garages nearby; the market can also be reached by bus or by subway (Clinicas station).

Perched on a hill between the busy Zona Sul and hip Santa Teresa neighborhoods, Casa Marques is an all-suites boutique hotel with unparalleled views of Rio. The French-Brazilian couple behind the property blended minimalist modern design with contemporary Brazilian art, creating a space that’s as sleek and subtle as a gallery. Stark white, rooms are decorated with unique local art and artisan-made rugs. Standard suites feature pingo de riga (floor-to-ceiling), wood-framed windows, while master suites include a balcony and expanded bathroom with soaking tub. On the roof of the colonial mansion, there’s an infinity pool and bar overlooking Guanabara Bay, Sugarloaf Mountain, and Christ the Redeemer. Rates include breakfast on the terrace or in the warm, stylish kitchen lounge, complete with traditional tapioca and Brazilian iced tea. Note that Casa Marques’ stellar scenery means it’s challenging to access—plan on taking taxis whenever you can tear yourself away from the hotel vistas.

Los Cóbanos is a picturesque stretch of golden sand, framed by a fringe of palm trees, perfect for relaxation. The waters here are home to colorful reefs, which are protected by the government, so the beach is particularly popular as the point of departure for snorkeling and scuba trips with licensed outfitters. Expect to see sea snails and urchins, colorful tropical fish, and even some submerged ship wrecks. The best time of year to visit for snorkeling and scuba diving in the area is between November and February.

On the other hand, the reefs mean it isn’t a particularly good place to visit for surfing. Even so, it is one of the most beautiful beaches to visit while you’re in the town of Los Cobanos, a small fishing community just south of Acajutla in El Salvador.

I first acquired one of Mychal’s beautifully handcrafted leather journals in late 2006 as a gift prior to an extended trip to Brazil. It now sits in my bookshelf, filled with sketches, poems and souvenir Brazilian flyers, stickers, photos, etc, as a remembrance of a great adventure. These are journals you will want to keep forever; they will inspire you to fill their pages, carefully with the same attention to detail that there were created. Visit Mychal’s studio in East Austin and let the smell of leather lure you in; she may even share a glass of wine and engulf you in conversation about her next adventure, the latest leather shipment or the best place to Salsa dance in Austin. I now prepare for a new travel adventure, and have picked the new shade of turquoise to be the color for my next Iona journal!

As a lover of architecture, visiting Edificio Copan in the center of São Paulo was high on my list during my last visit to this lively city. However, what really struck me while standing outside Copan was this fun street art behind us. It seems to be a new version of the Brazilian icon Carmen Miranda.


São Paulo’s streets come alive with street art. From murals and graffiti to whole facades of buildings painted with beautiful scenes, the creativity and color exhibited in the city’s outdoor work reflect the vibrancy of the Brazilian people. According to street art experts, the city is one of the world’s best for the development of this form of art. To see some of the city’s best examples, head to the Vila Madalena area (which is fun to visit anyway). The best examples are found in Beco do Batman (Batman’s Alley), off Rua Harmonia just before Rua Luis Murat.

Remote and difficult to access, this three-mile beach on the Dominican Republic’s southwestern Caribbean coast (15 miles from Pedernales and close to the Haitian border) is also blissfully uncrowded. Playa Bahia de las Águilas, which translates to “Bay of Eagles,” can only be reached via a four-wheel-drive vehicle on an unpaved road, or a 15-minute speedboat ride from the little village of La Cueva at Cabo Rojo. Once there, however, you’ll discover a pristine beach, bordered by rocky cliffs and free of any hotels or restaurants—the beach is located in the Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo Biosphere Reserve, so building is forbidden. Turquoise water laps the white sand, while well-preserved coral reefs wait just offshore. Don your mask and snorkel to see starfish, sand dollars, and maybe even a manatee. Also remember to bring water and sunscreen as there’s virtually no shade, and pack lunch or plan to eat in nearby La Cueva.

Given Ipanema’s highly fashionable status, it’s no surprise that its first luxury hotel comes courtesy of aesthetic superstar Philippe Starck, who outfitted the property—his first in Brazil—with mid-century modern furniture evoking Rio’s Bossa Nova glory days. Rooms include luxe bedding, high-pressure showers, and complimentary flip-flops from Brazilian brand Osklen, while public spaces feature Starck’s Surrealist “L’oreille Qui Voit” (“ears that see”) mirrors to maximize water views. In fact, the entire hotel takes advantage of its oceanfront location—even the meeting space has a sea-view terrace.

The Fasano family made its name a century ago with Italian restaurants so, naturally, the hotel’s Al Mare takes a Mediterranean bent, serving expertly prepared seafood under sparkling Murano chandeliers. Elsewhere in the hotel, the modest fitness center offers complimentary personal trainers to guests, while the Asian-influenced spa features a Vichy shower on the roof. The surrounding beach scene may be hot during the day, but the Fasano’s rooftop infinity pool and bar—exclusive to hotel guests—is the place to be come sunset. Grab a drink and watch the sun go down over Aropador, Ipanema, and Leblon beaches and Rio’s iconic mountains.

Surely one of the most extraordinary imperial relics of Morocco, the Palais Bahia (“the brilliant”) doesn’t disappoint. Built at the start of the 19th century by architect El Mekki for Si Moussa, the then chamberlain of Sultan Hassan I, the palace showcases a wide range of architectural styles hinting at the chamberlain’s playful spirit, especially after his son inherited it and added his own brand of flamboyant glamour to the place. Women’s quarters bedecked with crimson-and-mustard–striped ceilings, a marble-tile courtyard the size of a soccer field, and extensive salons lined by stained-glass windows are just some of the features of the 20-acre space. In 1912, General Lyautey, the governor of French protectorate Morocco, moved in and added creature comforts such as fireplaces and central heating. In so doing, he attracted a number of illustrious guests, among them the writer Edith Wharton. She described the palace this way: “They came, they built the Bahia, and it remains the loveliest and most fantastic of Moroccan palaces. Court within court, garden beyond garden, reception halls, private apartments, slaves’ quarters, sunny prophets’ chambers on the roofs, and baths in vaulted crypts, the labyrinth of passages and rooms stretches away over several acres of ground.” Follow Wharton’s lead and don’t miss it.