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Why we love it: A design-forward hotel in a former fortress with some of the most spacious suites on the island

The Highlights:
- All-suite accommodations with modern design
- A rooftop pool with sweeping Grand Harbour views
- An on-site restaurant from award-winning chef Chris Hammett

The Review:
Built in 1554 by the Order of Saint John to protect the fortified city of Senglea from invaders, this ancient fortress now serves as one of Malta’s finest hotels. Home to just 21 suites, the cavernous property offers some of the roomiest accommodations on the island, each outfitted with vaulted ceilings, Italian furniture and spacious bathrooms done up in marble and black tile. Some of the largest suites also boast lofted sleeping areas, deep-soaking bathtubs, kitchenettes, and terraces, but all feature attractive, minimalist décor that complements the building’s original stonework and explains why Cugó is a member of Design Hotels.

The hotel, which opened in 2018, also has a gorgeous rooftop pool, around which yoga and Pilates classes are frequently held. When hunger strikes, book a table at on-site Hammett’s Macina Restaurant, where you can pair Mediterranean-inspired cuisine by award-winning chef Chris Hammett with a bottle of wine from the hotel’s extensive cellar.

There are many excellent restaurants in Florence, but this one was recommended to me by a local, and I’m so glad it was. Alessandro, the chef, recently returned after working in New York City for eight years. Located on a small street near the Duomo, La Cucina del Garga offers so much for a small restaurant: recipes inspired by the chef’s father (Garga), art covering the walls, friendly staff, great Tuscan wines, funky menu designs, and reasonable prices. A seemingly simple salad of greens, tomatoes, pine nuts and cheese was the best salad I’ve ever had. Other great dishes were the fresh twisted penne with pistachios and cherry tomatoes, and creamy pasta with scallops. If possible, make a reservation and ask for the “painted room.”

In an age when many independent bookstores have surrendered to the advance of chain stores and Amazon, City Lights is a true survivor. Since it was founded by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti in 1956, it has served as a gathering place for San Francisco’s literary communities. Everyone from beat poets to left-wing critics of America have found a welcome here. City Lights is also a publishing house, with Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and Other Poems being perhaps the single most famous book it has put out, though it counts scores of other works by some of America’s leading contemporary literary figures on its list. You can drop in anytime to find an unexpected tome, and the store also has a crowded calendar of readings.

The California Academy of Sciences is an unfortunately stuffy name for an institution that is anything but staid. The country’s largest natural-history museum includes an aquarium, a planetarium, an enormous rain-forest exhibit under a 27-meter-tall (90-foot-tall) dome, and a living roof that looks like a science-fiction fantasy. A visit here can feel like a trip to an amusement park, with a series of attractions to check out, but all of them are educational. The building itself is part of the appeal of the Academy. (Like the nearby de Young, the old home of the California Academy of Sciences was damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, and starchitect Renzo Piano designed its very environmentally friendly replacement.) It would be easy to spend an entire day or more seeing all of the Academy’s exhibits, so be prepared to pick and choose among them.

Featured in the 1997 Jodie Foster film, Contact (based on the Carl Sagan book), the Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array (VLA) is an impressive, stunning radio astronomy observatory located on the Plains of San Agustin. The massive dishes are arranged in rotating patterns and form the largest radio telescope in the world looking for complex solar system life. Visitors are allowed to walk among the array on a self-guided tour.

Make the trek out to Shanghai Film Studio for two reasons: 1) to wander Shanghai’s Hollywood equivalent and stroll through the sets of some of China’s most famous films (such as “Lust, Caution”), and 2) to experience an older, preserved version of Shanghai, sans traffic and millions of pedestrians. Tip: Stop in for lunch at Talking Land Cafe for a chance at bumping into a famous film star. Ooh la la.

Bar Diz is nothing more and nothing less than a great neighborhood pintxo bar. Open at just the right times, with friendly service and a range of hot pintxos as well as larger portions and sandwiches, it hits the spot. They also have one of Gros’s best pintxo potes, which take place on Thursday nights from 7-10. A drink and a pintxo is two euros. It’s a madhouse.

Montes + Mugica is a furniture studio and clothing store that devotes itself to good, clean taste. It’s been in the family for generations, but each generation has brought a new style to the shop. The young brothers José and Javier bring a distinct affinity for all things Nordic, resulting in a gorgeous, hip aesthetic and real treasures for sale. Don’t miss their monthly pop up market in their other building, Espacio La Central.

Loreak Mendian is the epitome of youthful Basque couture for the people. Carefully designed, shying away from trends and focusing on classic cuts and prints with a bit of ‘edge’, their clothing walks a lovely line between wearable art and utilitarian. The boutique also has a winsome collection of carefully curated shoes and accessories. Worth a visit to pick up a catalog and check out the shop window display alone.

The de Young Museum, with its perforated copper facade and spiraling tower in the center of Golden Gate Park, is as dramatic outside as it is inside. Follow the widening crack in the sidewalk into the atrium. It’s an Andy Goldsworthy–created nod to the tectonic plates that carved out California, and emblematic of the museum, too: The previous building was damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake and rebuilt by Herzog & de Meuron, opening in 2005. Inside, Gerhard Richter’s wall-size mural, made from digitally manipulated photographs, greets visitors. The museum specializes in American art, international textile arts and costumes, and art of the ancient Americas, Oceania, and Africa. Visiting exhibitions often focus on modern works and draw massive crowds. Recent blockbusters include Georgia O’Keeffe, Richard Diebenkorn, and David Hockney. Make sure to visit the observation deck at the top of the tower. (It closes one hour before the museum.) It’s a unique view over the low-lying western end of the city.

Open to the public since the middle of the 18th century—and subsequently expanded by various Saxon Electors and museum curators—this celebrated museum contains one of Germany’s finest collections of Old Master works. Housed in the magnificent Dresden Zwinger, the museum spans three floors, focusing mainly on European painting (specifically the Italian Renaissance) but also featuring Dutch and Flemish masters like Van Eyck, Dürer, Holbein, Rubens, and Rembrandt. Highlights include Raphael’s Sistine Madonna, Vermeer’s Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window, and Bellotto’s depictions of Dresden’s historic city center. Also worth checking out is the collection of Cranach paintings—the largest of its kind in the world.

Housed in the former archbishop’s palace, the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Tours features one of France’s most extensive art collections, with works by everyone from Rubens, Rembrandt, and Rodin to Monet and Degas. Outside, the courtyard is dominated by a splendid cedar of Lebanon, planted in 1804, and Fritz, a stuffed elephant who was killed in 1902 after a bout of madness during a Barnum & Bailey circus parade in the streets of Tour. After you’ve seen the museum, from its Italian, French, and Flemish galleries to its modern art collection, head across the park and refuel with a coffee and pastry at Aux Délices des Beaux Arts.

Pizzeria Antico’s Italian decor couldn’t be more bella, from the distressed chairs to the white marble bar to the vintage road bicycle perched above the open cucina. Flatbread aficionados will find familiar fare such as the Margherita, funghi, and quattro formaggi along with house-made pastas like gnocchi di Antico. The gnocchi, made with Pemberton potatoes grown nearby and dressed simply in a garlicky tomato sauce, are absolutely sublime.

At the neighborhood’s eastern extreme, on Rue Dante, this traditional Italian bakery is renowned as the purveyor of the city’s best cannoli, though it’s a hotly debated issue. They are blindingly scrumptious, that’s for sure, and they come in chocolate, vanilla ricotta, vanilla ricotta with tiny chocolate chips, vanilla custard or mocha. They’re just one of the many sweet treats on offer though, so wander over after a day at the market and let yourself be tempted by the cornetti, the million-layered sfogliatelle, the flaky, cream-filled lobster tails or the dozens of varieties of cookie.

The stretch of Boulevard Saint-Laurent between Rue Marianne and Avenue Mont-Royal is known as furniture alley, for all the furniture and home appointment stores that exist there. Latitude Nord was among the first to move to the area and remains the best spot to spy cutting-edge contemporary design items like lamps, chairs, rugs and couches. The focus is on European imports, particularly Italian brands like Cassina, Bisazza and Cappellini, but there’s also minimalist American ware from the likes of Emeco (makers of the ubiquitous Navy Chair) and cushy rugs made in Spain by Alpujarreña. The slick showroom is worth visiting even if you don’t intend to buy.