Search results for

This is the place to visit if you are looking for a multicultural neighborhood that is getting better and safer every day that passes. Near Mouraria, once a degraded neighborhood, you will find Martim Moniz’s Square—full of life, with many kiosks with esplanades, serving food and drinks from all over the world. Weekends feature the Fusion Market, with DJs, concerts, workshops, and debates. Even the city’s mayor changed his office to this area, to show that is a good neighborhood. From the square, you can see São Jorge’s Castle, up there on the hill, protecting us from evildoers.

La Glorieta attends to those attracted to tango’s drama but who eschew slick, three-hour dance extravaganzas in downtown cabarets. Free and open to the public, this gazebo, in a plaza near Belgrano’s Barrio Chino, transforms on weekend evenings into an open-air gathering place for tango dancers—young and old, experienced and rookies alike. If you’re looking to learn the dance’s steps (as well as its complex etiquette), go early for classes (5–6:30 p.m.) before the dance floor opens. Dancing goes on until 11 p.m. and is canceled on rainy nights.

Mendoza has suffered devastating earthquakes that have reduced the city to rubble. The earthquake of 1861 destroyed most of the city. Instead of repairing all the damage, the city decided to build a new city center southwest of the original location. They created a large principal plaza—Plaza Independencia—surrounded by four smaller plazas: Plaza San Martin; Plaza Chile; Plaza Italia; and the most picturesque, Plaza Espana. These open spaces created a safe retreat for residents to gather in the event of another destructive earthquake. On weekends the plazas come alive with artisan markets, food vendors, lip-locked lovers and families. Enjoy the people watching and be aware of your belongings.

La Boca’s Don Carlos is heaven for the indecisive. Since there is no menu, the restaurant’s namesake owner sizes you up and intuits what you need. The idea is to feel like you’re at home, where the whims of whoever’s cooking determine what comes out of the kitchen. Everything is made from scratch, in-house, and reflects what you’d get in a typical Argentine household: pastas, Spanish tortillas, vegetable croquettes, juicy grilled meats. Plates come out in quick succession until you say uncle. Wash them down with a bottle from their impressive wine list; you’ll leave with a full belly and a smile. Closed Sundays and Boca soccer match days.

Chef Vanina Chimeno recently debuted María Antonieta in downtown Mendoza. You’ll find grilled meat aplenty but also house-made pastas such as broccoli orecchiette Belgrano 1069, Ciudad, 54/(0) 261-420-4322. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.

It would be easy to walk past this tiny, unassuming joint in the Recoleta neighborhood. But those in the know flock to La Cocina, which is still run by the Catamarca Province family that opened it 40 years ago (the owners’ grandson answers the phone and wraps up lunch orders nonstop). La Cocina’s famous empanadas are oven-baked (as opposed to fried), and this lighter take on the Argentine staple feels like something you could eat every day. Go early for lunch or dinner, as the tiny place fills up at peak hours; don’t miss the picachu, a spicy cheese-and-onion empanada. Open Monday through Saturday from noon to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Buenos Aires is a city of readers—it supports more bookstores per capita than any other place in the world. The crown jewel of the librerías here is the Ateneo Grand Splendid. Housed in a theater where music legends such as Carlos Gardel once attracted vast crowds, the store features shelf after shelf of tempting volumes on its rounded balconies. Italian frescoes on the domed ceiling and plush red-velvet curtains are from the theater’s original 1919 design. The four-story space carries over 120,000 books and a local-music selection, and there’s a café on the erstwhile stage.

Just a short ride from the historic Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Cultural Center, Pestana Palace Lisboa is itself a designated national landmark. The 194-room hotel occupies a carefully restored 19th-century manor that once belonged to the cocoa baron Marquis of Valle-Flôr, and now caters to queens of pop like Madonna (she reportedly stayed in a Royal Suite).

“Lavish” is the key adjective here: The manor is set within an immaculately manicured private park filled with palms, subtropical plants, sculptures, a former pond-turned-swimming pool, and a spa with an indoor pool and Turkish baths. Palace interiors give the air of a gilded cocoon—all ornate ceiling frescoes, soaring stained-glass windows, and magnificent oil canvases—while the main restaurant, Valle Flôr, has Regency airs and Portuguese fare. Guests may linger on Saturdays for a “chic-nic” lunch on the lawn by the pool.

Ranked as one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants on the 2018 eponymous list, Chef Narda Lepes’s Narda Comedor serves healthy, seasonal meals and adds excitement through an ongoing new-flavor rotation. Vegetables play a key role but this isn’t rabbit food; the kitchen turns out succulent meats from top providers committed to wholesomeness and sustainability. Sharing dishes with your dining companions is a winning strategy.

Downtown Mendoza’s finest luxury hotel, the Park Hyatt Mendoza Hotel, Casino & Spa enjoys a privileged location on Plaza Independencia with choice rooms overlooking the Andes mountains. A stunning 19^th-century Spanish colonial whitewashed façade gleams beautifully with majestic columns and ornate cornices. Behind the historic entrance lies a modern, six-story hotel with a contemporary art collection featuring the works of 23 renowned local artists.

Park Hyatt Mendoza’s signature service extends to 186 luxurious guestrooms and suites, plus a spa, health club, casino, and outdoor swimming pool. The hotel’s Grill Q is known for its steaks, while its fine-dining restaurant Bistro M features an impressive two-story wine library with a Wine Spectator stamp of approval for having one of the most outstanding wine lists in the world. The Vines Wine Bar & Vinoteca is a contemporary bar offering local wines.

Get up, up, and away with Lake Tahoe Balloons. The company launches its colorful hot air balloons not from land but from the surface of the lake via the Tahoe Flyer, the world’s only certified balloon launch-and-recovery boat. Trips begin with a 5:30 a.m. boat ride to the mid-lake launch site. Once the balloon is in the air, passengers and pilot float up to 3,000 feet above the water’s surface for bird’s-eye views of the entire Tahoe basin. On the clearest days, views extend southward all the way to Yosemite National Park. After the flight, everybody celebrates with a champagne toast—then heads back to their hotel for a nap.

The bricked-over windows of the bookstore/wine bar Falena may have you worrying the place has closed. But the isolation from the street that the bricks provide is part of what gives Falena the feel of a hidden sanctuary. Ring to enter and step into what could be some bookworm’s particularly inviting minimalist home. Downstairs, floor-to-ceiling shelves hold books handpicked by local independent publishers; a basement wine cellar safeguards a carefully curated selection of boutique vintages. And the rooftop terrace is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass—or pore over newly acquired volumes.

Cesare al Casaletto is far off the well-beaten tourist track, but it is easy to get to: just take the 8 tram from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina and get off at the very last stop. Fifty yards from the tram tracks sits Rome‘s best trattoria, where spectacular fried appetizers (get them all, or at least the gnocchi fritti and polpette di bollito) give way to classic pasta dishes like carbonara and gricia. The second courses are excellent and fall-off-the-tailbone braised oxtail is a favorite. Pair it all with fairly priced natural wines from all over Italy and be sure to leave room for dessert, preferably the panna cotta.

The hot-air balloon captains of the Masai Mara see themselves more as sailors than pilots. Despite the fact that they are flying, they guide the balloon through the air, adjusting the pulleys and controlling blasts of hot air like sailors harnessing the wind with canvas. The anticipation of takeoff is exhilarating: Guests arrive to an open field in the darkness and lie down on the grass to be hoisted up into the basket, with the roar of the flames overhead. The ride itself is tranquil and relaxing, drifting through the sky, admiring the balloon’s shadow on the golden ground as the sun rises. Rides can be booked in advance while staying at Angama Mara, one of Kenya’s most luxurious lodges.

As the saying goes, “When in Rome...,” and in Mendoza, this means slipping into an immodestly cut bikini bottom to blend in with the locals. Get rid of those American tan lines with some of the most adorable bikinis in the southern hemisphere. Two young Mendocenean sisters design and stamp the bathing suits themselves, making each one slightly unique. You can mix and match tops and bottoms for size and cut. The only question is, do you have enough courage to wear it back at home? With your flattering new tan lines, you just might.