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On Madklubben’s website is a manifesto that sums up its philosophy: “to offer excellent food and drink for an unusually reasonable price.” That’s not an idle boast. You can get one course for 100 kroner ($16), two courses for 150 ($24), or three for 200 ($32), featuring dishes such as mushroom pie, veal with pickled beets, and cured cod with horseradish cream – a great deal in a notably expensive city (with well-priced wine on the menu, to boot). The original venue, Madklubben Bistro-de-Luxe, is still going strong in central Copenhagen near the Queen’s Palace, and there are now several other locations scattered around town.

This group of more than 30 cafés across Denmark are open early, so they’re great for breakfast. The tea, coffee, and sandwiches are all very nice, but what really sets Lagkagehuset apart is the quality of the cakes. It would take an iron will to resist one of their strawberry tarts or a slice of Christianshavnerkage, a hazelnut torte topped with strawberry-vanilla cream and berries. The café in Copenhagen overlooks the lakes, and when the water glitters on a sunny day, there are few places more pleasant for an impromptu afternoon tea.

This intimate, bistro-like 16-seat restaurant in the heart of Pest’s trendy Jewish quarter brings a dash of Scandinavian cuisine (and Scandi decor) to the Hungarian capital. Chef Gábor Fehér spent time in Copenhagen mastering Nordic cuisine, which here comes as mini-courses (they’re flavorful but small, so the kitchen recommends ordering at least four for a meal). Hungarian and even French culinary influences aren’t ignored, either— Fehér studied at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. There’s a huge variety of Hungarian wines on offer, and the regular crowd is artsy and cool. By the way, “Esca” means “food” in Latin, and it’s easy to see what’s most important here.

This is one of the smallest cafés in the city, which is appropriate as it’s downstairs from the smallest hotel, with just one room. The café is equally tiny and appealing, created by a man who’s worked as a set designer with Danish TV and thus knows a thing or two about atmosphere and pleasant, inviting spaces. Central Café may be small, but it’s impossible to miss: Look for the huge sign on top of the roof. It feels more like a little corner of Paris than Copenhagen—just the place for a café au lait if you can squeeze in, as well as sandwiches, croissants and pastries, and their signature banana split.

To the northwest of central Copenhagen, much-photographed (though less frequently visited) Grundtvigs Kirke is notable as a rare example of a church constructed in the expressionist style. Architect Peder Vilhelm Jensen-Klint won a design competition for the church commission in 1913, but World War I delayed construction until 1921, and the structure was not completed until 1940. (Jensen-Klint was also responsible for the surrounding residential development.) Grundtvig’s monumental and severe exterior was inspired by traditional Danish churches, while the soaring interior is filled with light that pours through the clear windows on sunny days and illuminates the pale yellow bricks. A bit off the beaten path, the church is about a 20-minute bike ride from the city center. The trip takes longer if you use public transportation, so do as the Danes do and hop on a bike.

Every city needs a stand-out confectionery store, and in Copenhagen that role is filled by Summerbird. Locals love the delicious organic chocolates and candied almonds, and flødeboller—chocolate shells that encase super-soft marshmallow—are the specialty of the house. You can buy individual truffles or get them boxed in beautiful packaging for a perfect small gift to take home or give to a Danish friend who’s invited you over. The fairy-tale-pretty products are available at Summerbird shops and other retail outlets around town.

Located in Copenhagen, where Hans Christian Andersen called home for many years, sits a tribute to one of his greatest literary works: The Little Mermaid. Commissioned in 1909, the Little Mermaid resides as a solitary figure on a single rock in Langelinie, a solemn bronze soul, sulking by the waters edge. I love this statue because it captures the true essence of the original story. Most people are familiar with the ‘amended’ version of the tale, or the Disney movie of the same name that had everyone walking out of the theater with a smile on their face. But the original story written by Andersen did not have a happy ending at all. In fact, our heroin simply dissolved into the sea, never to be seen again. Not exactly the uplifting children’s tale we all know and love now. So venture out to Langelinie via car or boat and pay a visit to our mermaid friend, I’m sure she’d appreciate it.

Mama Shelter’s owners, who launched the Flèche d’Or indie rock club across the street, turned an outlying location in the 20^th arrondissement into an advantage. They enlisted Philippe Starck to design the restaurant, bar, pizzeria, and summer rooftop terrace—which now attract poets, artists, and counterculture types from across the city. The hotel’s street cred is still intact years after the 2008 opening, and the decor—black ceilings turned into graffiti chalkboards bearing literary quotations; Mexican wrestling and Halloween masks turned into lamp shades; tree trunks used as stools—remains relentlessly hipster without being overwhelming; guests could be young parents with sleeve tattoos toting baby carriers in the elevators.

Join Afar’s Deputy Editor Michelle Baran for a virtual panel discussion with experts from Wonderful Copenhagen and VisitDenmark to help you uncover the lesser-known side of Copenhagen.

From cherry blossoms in spring to a winter wonderland theme park, there’s something special in Copenhagen for everyone. What’s your season?

Explore Copenhagen’s winter wonders during this five-day itinerary, covering the most charming and cozy experiences the Danish capital has to offer.

Kayak the Danish capital’s canals and take spectacular day trips to Dragør and North Zealand with this summer itinerary.

Get in touch with your inner Viking when you sail on a Viking ship and check out archeological objects on this itinerary including an overnight in an 800-year-old castle.

This 6-day itinerary takes you through the Danish capital’s epicurean delights and the centuries-old historical sites of North and South Zealand.