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When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

See proof that the idea behind national parks—preserving spectacular landscapes—has been successful at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. In 1871, William Henry Jackson took more than 100 photos with an 8x10 plate camera. (His photos were a large part of why Yellowstone was, in 1872, named the world’s first national park.) Jackson took several shots of various places in the 24-mile long Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, including of the Upper and Lower Falls. In 2017, Jackson-based photojournalist Bradly J. Boner published the book, Yellowstone National Park: Through the Lens of Time, in which he rephotographed all but one of Jackson’s images. The book shows Boner’s modern-day photos side-by-side with Jackson’s. It turns out the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is very little changed.

A little beyond the city walls, and just a few blocks from the Musée National des Beaux-Arts de Québec and the Plains of Abraham, Avenue Cartier offers a different shopping experience than what you’ll find in Old Town. This is a part of the city more popular with locals than tourists, and instead of shops selling sweatshirts with moose and maple-leaf designs, you’ll find upscale stores and boutiques. The street is also known for its dining and nightlife options, offering a wide selection of restaurants, pubs, and bars where you can take a break from the hard work of shopping.

Skiing, celebrities, and log cabins might come to mind when you think of Jackson, Wyoming, but the just-opened Anvil Hotel offers a hyperlocal new take on the picturesque town. New York design firm Studio Tack transformed a motor lodge into a 49-room hotel with a Shaker-inspired mid-century aesthetic, complete with iron bed frames and Woolrich blankets. Downstairs, there’s a general store selling hipster Western gear, as well as plenty of places to mingle with travelers and residents, including a zinc-topped bar serving cocktails by the famed New York City−based Death & Co. team.

Welcome to the teeny-tiny atelier of the Montreal-based brand, famous for their iconic crew-neck sweatshirts with a bow. Talk about a souvenir shirt that is neither cheesy (looking at you, moose t-shirts found everywhere in Old-Montreal) nor cheap-looking. Most female Montrealers I know pretty much live in this sweatshirt come wintertime. A high-quality staple that will certainly make for a great conversation starter back home.

There are no guarantees the Northern Lights will start dancing on the night you look skyward, but it’s so worth taking the chance. One of the great rewards for hanging out in Alaska once the dark and cold settle over the state, the Northern Lights (or if you want to be scientific about it, aurora borealis) serve up a light show that is equal parts science, magic, and art. Your best bet for catching the light show is to head away from city lights. That’s one of many reasons it’s worth making the trip to Denali National Park, open year-round. When the park’s summer crowds disappear, visitors feel as though the massive national park is an intimate personal space.

The pointy Tetons offer plenty of eye candy, but when you pair them with kaleidoscopic wildflowers, the scenery rating soars off the charts. That’s what you’ll find in Death Canyon—which sounds menacing but actually serves up some of the park’s finest wildflower displays. Take Moose-Wilson Road to the Death Canyon Trailhead and hike west. One mile later, you get your first “ahhh!” moment as you overlook the sapphire waters of Phelps Lake. Continuing upward, the canyon’s granite walls become steeper and closer, and you may see climbers carrying heavy packs full of the hardware required to scale these thousand-foot cliffs. Purple monkshood, crimson paintbrush, and pearly-white columbine fill the meadows just beyond the ranger cabin (4 miles from the trailhead). If you can push on all the way to Fox Creek Pass (9 miles one way), you’ll wade through waist-high wildflowers in an alpine basin offering views of the Tetons’ knifelike summits.

Whether you’re looking for a family-friendly itinerary or a route that hits the state’s most beautiful outdoor areas, here are 6 great road trip itineraries in Wyoming.

On this six-day itinerary, you’ll travel through Wyoming’s “Salt to Stone” Region, traversing the Star Valley Scenic Byway and Grand Teton National Park.

Whether it’s bison steak in Casper, pancake feasts for Cheyenne’s most famous festival, or modern vegetarian cuisine in Laramie, Wyoming is a dynamic culinary destination that demands exploration.

From horseback riding and rock climbing to fly fishing, swimming, and camping under the unbelievably clear night skies, there’s never a dull moment in a Wyoming summer.

On this episode of View From Afar, host Michelle Baran talks with Wyoming’s new executive director of tourism, Domenic Bravo, about why the Cowboy State is so much more than Yellowstone.

This five-day itinerary highlights some of Wyoming’s best family-friendly activities—from paddleboarding on Fremont Lake to fly fishing, sandboarding, and unforgettable wildlife sightings.

Discover the ways of the Old West in Northern Wyoming, from Shoshone National Forest to Paintrock Canyon Ranch and all the way to the historical hub of Sheridan, as you road trip through the state.