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With its outdoor cafés and Technicolor facades, the 17th-century Nyhavn Canal is perhaps one of the most Instagrammed attractions on the planet. The best place to experience it all is 71 Nyhavn, an intimate boutique hotel overlooking the harbor at the end of the canal. Occupying a pair of former seaport warehouses built in 1804, the 130 rooms—many of which are newly renovated—mix original details (wood beams, brick walls) with contemporary comforts (leather headboards, furnishings by Arne Jacobsen and, in the lobby, avant-garde paintings from the owner’s private collection). Downstairs, SEA serves southeast Asian fare by the team behind Michelin-starred restaurant Kiin Kiin—a nod to the once-exotic trade routes that gave the canal purpose.

Design geeks must take the train from Copenhagen‘s city center to Orestad. The neighborhood is like a futuristic city with its innovative architecture, much of which looks like it’s straight out of the Jetsons. Bjarke Ingels is arguably one of the world’s most influential young architects and urban developers. His No. 8 building (above) was voted Best Residential Building 2011 at the World Architecture Festival and is a glimpse at the future of sustainable city living. Walk the grounds and be sure to check out the green roof.

The Copenhagen Admiral Hotel began its life as an 18th-century warehouse on the Copenhagen waterfront, before being turned into a maritime-themed hotel in the 1970s. With the royal family’s Amalienborg Palace on one side, the lively and picturesque Nyhavn canal on the other, and the Copenhagen Opera House across the water, the hotel couldn’t be better placed for feeling like you’re in the heart of Copenhagen’s sights. Historic tall ships regularly dock out front, and, when the sun comes out, locals and guests alike spill onto the waterfront patio for a Carlsberg beer.

Inside, the hotel feels quintessentially Scandinavian, with exposed beams and a blue-green color palette. The acclaimed SALT restaurant puts a modern spin on traditional Scandinavian cuisine with inspiration from local, raw produce and French cuisine.

Built in the Gothic Revival style, many locals feel that this is Copenhagen‘s most elegant church. With its multi-hued design, sharp lines, and picturesque location overlooking Kastellet’s moat the “English Church” can be quite enchanting. Situated immediately next to the church is the Gefion fountain which depicts the Gefjun (Norse mythology) riding in a chariot pulled by giant animals. Designed by Anders Bundgaard, the fountain is dramatic and features spraying water which leaves you feeling as though Gefjun is in motion while in the midst of a raging stream.

Perched on Peblinge Sø, one of Copenhagen’s man-made lakes, Hotel Kong Arthur is hidden away within the walls of an 1882 apprentices’ residence, on the edge of the hip Nørrebro neighborhood. From the outside, it looks like any other historic building in Copenhagen, hidden down a cobblestoned alley, but walk through the doors and you’ll discover a whole world inside. In honor of the hotel’s medieval-inspired name, a full suit of armor greets guests upon arrival, but the historic comparisons stop there. Each room is individually designed in modern Danish style—minimalist, light, welcoming, with all the modern gadgets and a look worthy of a design magazine. With its highly acclaimed spa, three restaurants, private courtyard, conference rooms, and even an afternoon happy hour for guests, Hotel Kong Arthur is an oasis in and of itself—if only it weren’t so well situated to tempt guests out to explore the city.

Straight from the Pony’s mouth: PONY is Kadeau’s cheeky ”little brother” residing in the small, homely premises of Vesterbrogade 135, where Kadeau Copenhagen used to be. The idea behind PONY is a more simple approach to the good dining experience, revolving around a small selection of à la carte dishes and a daily four course menu known as the “Pony Kick”. The food is based on seasonal and local produce and is in that sense new Nordic, as it is at Kadeau. But it is also bistro in style, and at PONY we proudly cook using produce from both Bornholm and the rest of our delicious Danish backyard.

In 1971, squatters moved into the barracks on an abandoned military base and established Freetown Christiania, an autonomous district in the middle of the city. Later, many dwellers built their own homes on the 86-acre property. Although the Danish Supreme Court ruled this year that the state owns the land, the area’s nearly 1,000 residents have yet to be evicted. Today, visitors can bike along tree-lined paths and check out the handmade structures before they disappear. christiania.org. This appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.

An old shoemaker’s workshop hidden above a tiny café has been transformed into what Copenhageners call the world’s smallest hotel—a 12-square-meter room outfitted in vintage-inspired decor and the highest quality gadgets. It feels like a hideaway from reality, on the border of two of Copenhagen’s coolest, undiscovered-by-tourists neighborhoods. With a Royal Eden bed, hidden flat-screen TV, iPhone with stereo dock, and free Wi-Fi, Central Hotel & Café has thought of every requisite modern convenience. The 1950s-style decor even feels straight out of a movie—not surprising, actually, since one of the owners previously worked as a set designer.

Downstairs, the café feels like your own, even if just for a day, with its sounds and smells wafting up through the windows and vents. Open the flower-framed window to get a better smell, and arrange to have your coffee delivered to your door, or simply head downstairs to order in the café.

Copenhagen has a staggering array of museums, concerts halls, and opera houses. The one captured above (while getting rained on during a boat ride in the harbor on our way to see the Little Mermaid statue), is of the Royal Danish Playhouse. Opened in 2008, the playhouse was designed to complement the nearby Copenhagen Opera House, as well as the original 1874 playhouse venue located on Kongens Nytorv. The bluish-green glass-enclosed area affords visitors panoramic views of the harbor, and also has a restaurant and cafe if you want to accompany your view with food or drink. Or considering the weather I was in, it’s a nice pace to simply protect yourself from the elements.

Noma, consistently ranked as one of the world’s best restaurants, closed in 2016, but its impact on dining in Copenhagen has been profound. Many chefs who worked there have since launched their own restaurants, including two who opened Bror. It’s a small space with big ambitions—expect astonishing food made from the best local produce. The five-course menu costs 625 kroner ($100), with wine pairings an additional 450 kroner ($72). There are also some memorable snacks. Don’t miss the bull testicles with tartar sauce or the cod head with cabbage wrap.

This place is an interesting blend. In the recent Danish tradition, it is a partnership between a number of different creative types. This time, those personalities happen to be design-oriented people from the food, interior design, and dinnerware design communities. This restaurant has focused completely on providing a rich, intensely rustic experience that embodies modern trends in both the New Nordic cuisine movement and Danish design. Recent offerings include flounder with fried chicken skin and sauce made from fermented asparagus and grilled lobster with juniper pancake and pointed cabbage. Photo: Höst.

This restaurant has a simple goal: capture the essence of hygge (Danish coziness) while serving up excellent smørrebrød variations to guests. Enjoy the artful presentation, simple ambiance, and rich flavors that have made this place one of Copenhagen‘s top smørrebrød restaurants. Photo: Restaurant Kronborg (Facebook)

I absolutely love the interior courtyard of Christiansborg Palace. It is the type of place that seems straight out of a Disney fairy tale. Stand in the courtyard and close your eyes, imagining carriages, lanterns, and a steady stream of affluent Danes attending a grand ball—it’s a magical place. Started in 1733, the palace was completed in its present form in 1928. Over the years various stages were added and expanded in response to fire damage, periods of prosperity, and the latest design trends. The Palace currently serves as the seat of the Danish Parliament, the Prime Minister’s Office, the Supreme Court, The Royal Reception Rooms, and the Royal Stables which are the reason that the middle of the inner courtyard is a large dirt space (still used as part of the Royal Stables). You can access the ruins from the previous castle through the Christiansborg Palace museum.

Copenhagen is one of the world’s most sophisticated cocktail cities. Bars as far afield as Tokyo and New York keep a close eye on what is shaking—and stirring—here. Ruby, among the more elegant of Copenhagen’s bars, opened in 2007 with a focus on classic cocktails. It can be hard to find, but look for the flag of Georgia to guide you there, as it’s in the same building as that country’s embassy.

I was lucky enough to get to Copenhagen this weekend and also lucky enough to come across the sand sculptures that were done by several international artists from around the world. These things are amazing and seem to love the Danish summers because after a couple of months, they’re still standing.