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Chef Jacques Larson operates on the fringes, creating destination restaurants far off the Charleston peninsula, first with his Johns Island trattoria, Wild Olive, and now with this seafood-and-pizza-focused outpost on Sullivan’s Island. His signature ricotta gnocchi with short-rib ragù and horseradish gremolata sets tastebuds salivating and inspires frequent return drives to the beach, as do pizzas like “Old Danger,” featuring pancetta, black pepper, and a farm egg over melted mozzarella and parmesan. Weekend brunch is in especially high demand, but the well-designed, nautical-but-not-kitsch dining room and wraparound raw bar stay packed for lunch and dinner every day of the week. Downstairs, there’s an in-house coffee-and-gelato shop, BeardCat’s, that doles out breakfast sandwiches and lattes in the morning and 20 flavors of house made icy goodness all afternoon and evening.

Partly owned by part-time Charleston resident Bill Murray, Harold’s Cabin is a nutty combination of Murray’s sweetest comedic roles and Wes Anderson’s cockeyed art direction. This former neighborhood corner grocery store (opened by the namesake Harold Jacobs in 1929) keeps up the bodega tradition by offering some local goods on shelves and in refrigerated cases in the front, like pizza dough and milk, as well as fancier artisanal stuff. The rest of the place is more Wes Anderson—plaid-upholstered furniture, stenciled murals, vintage porch gliders, knotty pine panelling—the look is definitely not haphazard, though, it’s more balanced and a deliberate design. Entrust your cocktail or beer wishes to the affable veteran bartender, Drew Childers, who will draw from the extensive variety of local brews on tap or mix you a cocktail that draws inspiration not just from the bottles behind the bar but from the vegetables grown in the extensive roof garden as well. In addition to dinner entrees like a bison burger and a popular three-cheese ravioli in mushroom sauce, a ‘Graze ‘n Nosh’ menu section includes boards: a snack board is served with a sleeve of Ritz crackers teetering on a plank beside with cheese curds, slices of pepperoni, ham salad, pickles, and savoure cheeese; another board has a generous serving of cured salmon, latkes, pickles, and beet horseradish. The crowd is full of locals (the mournful face of a dog tied up outside implies that her evening constitutional was waylaid) and much of the conversation at the bar concerns surf reports and the merits of the beers on tap. There is frequently live music, as well as goofy regular events like a monthly Johnny Cash day on which customers dressed in black get a discount. Head out to Hampton Park Terrace and join Harold’s Cabin’s low-keyed party.

Chef Drew Hedlund combines classic and contemporary Southern fare here in a retired 1940s naval building on the east side of the Charleston peninsula. Long used for storage by the South Carolina Port Authority, today it’s home to one of the city’s most popular waterfront restaurants, with incomparable views of the harbor. Some highlights of the menu include crispy whole flounder with apricot glaze, Charleston shrimp and grits, crab cakes, Lowcountry boil and lump crab bruschetta.

This soul food joint thrived for two decades in its unassuming nook on the peninsula’s East Side before being discovered by diners outside the neighborhood. It’s managed its transition to Southern food darling well, retaining its modest checkered floor, plywood walls, and red leather booths while also embracing the new attention by launching a website. Fortunately—and most importantly—the family-run operation hasn’t altered their recipes for favorites like their heaping plate of crab rice, fried local shark steak, or savory lima beans stewed in smoked neck bones and pigtails. Daily specials feature harder-to-find items like oxtails and stew gizzards, but it’s not all offal—you’ll certainly leave smiling after a plate of fried chicken or a hefty baked turkey wing.

This sweet restaurant in West Ashley serves up all the Southern classics, from fried green tomatoes to pimento cheese and grits, but makes everything with local ingredients. The grits come from nearby Edisto Island, and much of the produce is sourced from Johns Island. Come at lunch for one of the delicious (and enormous) po’boys, or swing by for dinner and pair fried pork chops with beer, wine, or cocktails from the extensive drink menu.

Cane’s chef and owner Paul Yellin grew up on Barbados, and he drew on this experience while putting together this bar and restaurant: the menu is full of Caribbean dishes, and the space is decked out with palms, corrugated metal, and bamboo. Another Barbados-inspired touch? The heavy presence of rum at Cane. The bar houses bottles from across the wold, and the drinks menu serves classic rum-centric cocktails like Zombies and Painkillers alongside more creative concoctions.

With his high-concept McCrady’s and his more rustic Husk—both in Charleston—chef Sean Brock transformed perceptions of Southern cooking from heavy, simple fare to a culinary tradition that is rich, complex, and filled with history. He worked with experts to resuscitate countless heirloom vegetables and grains lost to the agriculture industry, many of which reflect the region’s deep immigration roots (rice varieties from China; spices from Africa). He also changed the game with this simple rule: No ingredient north of the Mason-Dixon may enter the kitchen. Husk Nashville, which Brock opened in 2013, applies the same philosophy, but this time the menu is a nod to the bounty of inland Tennessee. In a 19th-century former residence in downtown Nashville, the James Beard Award–winning chef serves up his modern spin on classics such as pimento cheese, paired here with benne wafers, pickled jalapeños, and chipped beef. The Tennessee-raised pork prime rib, paired with cabbage, pecan butter, and molasses vinegar, is impossibly tender. Leave room for the vegetable plate, which highlights the best of the season’s produce.

When local restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink shut down Saint Alban, Charleston was distraught. They had something different in mind for the space, however, and replaced their airy, all-day café with a cozy steak house straight out of the 1950s. Much like its predecessor, Little Jack’s has quickly established itself as a neighborhood favorite. It’s open every day from 11 a.m. until late in the evening and serves classic, meat-heavy dishes (steak, sliders, pastrami) alongside seasonal salads. A solid menu of classic cocktails (Harvey Wallbangers, sidecars) rounds out the throwback experience.

Despite its refined food and atmosphere, the Park Cafe is really a neighborhood spot at heart. It opens up at 7 a.m. on weekdays, dishing out top-notch coffee and avocado toast, and stays open into the evening with great cocktails and a diverse menu full of local, seasonal ingredients. Try the mushroom-and-walnut pâté, which comes with raw vegetables and crostini—and for a good deal, don’t miss their happy hour Mondays-Fridays from 3-6 p.m.

Come to this neighborhood corner establishment for the seafood, but don’t overlook the beef tartare, complemented by radish, nori, and ranch (and don’t be ashamed to order two if you’re with a party of three or more). Pricing is akin to the Ordinary, without that big brother’s fancy full experience, but it’s worth a visit for treats like tempura blowfish tails—bone-in adult lollypops of crispy, savory flavor, with lemon and spicy mayo on the side. Unconventional entrees like the smoked fish curry (amberjack one week, mackerel the next) with pumpkin and peanuts and hints of citrus, make each bite a pleasant and surprising adventure of textures and tastes. The tiny dining room gets packed quickly on weekends, and the residential setting means they still haven’t acquired a liquor license a year in, but the flavor is worth any sacrifice. The small but excellent wine list includes creative sparkling varietals, and the restaurant is one of a few places in town to serve Life Raft Treats desserts—don’t leave without a waffle-flavored ice cream in the shape of a small chicken leg, coated in toasted corn flakes, wrapping a frozen cream-filled chocolate wafer.

The resort town of Mondello, just a short drive from Palermo, is a popular escape for visitors and Sicilians alike. Cerulean waters lap a beach of soft white sand. Visitors staying in nearby villas spend much of their time relaxing on the beach, with occasional breaks for arancini and panelle bought from street vendors. For a serious meal, stroll down the pier to the Charleston, a landmark restaurant and bar in an Art Nouveau building over the water.

Located on Sullivan’s Island, Fort Moultrie was a key defensive position in controlling Charleston Harbor during the Revolutionary War. In June 1776, the Royal Navy of Britain attacked what was then called Fort Sullivan, firing cannonballs directly into its walls. Colonel William Moultrie and his patriot regime were able to hold the British off, however, since the walls were constructed from the soft trunks of the island’s palmetto tree and could absorb the cannonballs rather than break apart. Eventually renamed for Moultrie, the fort was rebuilt in 1798, then “modernized” in 1870 to include two massive cannons that still stand today. Dive deep into the history at the National Park Service’s museum before touring the armaments and taking in the unparalleled views of Charleston Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean.

It seems criminal that what many consider the best barbecue in Charleston comes from a Texas pit-master, but such is the nature of a global food scene in a thriving culinary city. John Lewis arrived in town with focus and intention, constructing an array of smokers that slow-cook hundreds of pounds of brisket, pork, and “hot guts” (sausage) each day. His expansive, counter-serve joint accommodates grab-and-go meals as well as extended feasts, for at least as long as diners can fend off the meat sweats. If you’re indecisive—which is natural at Lewis Barbecue—opt for the Sancho Loco, a mountain of a sandwich that piles guts, pickled red onions, pulled pork, and chopped beef between two slices that do their best to accommodate the onslaught of sauce and smoky flavor. Regulars know not to miss the green chili corn pudding—it’s a taste of Texas that’s more than welcome in the Lowcountry.

This Spring Street café’s name is deceiving—yes, two in-house sommeliers assure there’s a focus on excellent wines, but this isn’t a pecorino-and-prosciutto wine bar—it’s a full-service neighborhood restaurant serving hearty entrees like a cast iron-seared hanger steak, and squid ink pasta alla chitarra with zucchini, chilis, and local shrimp. That’s not to say there isn’t cheese; it’s a fine place for a snack and a glass of wine (over a dozen are offered by the pour). But likewise, don’t let the name steer you away from house cocktails like the namesake Josephine, with its balance of grapefruit juice, yellow chartreuse, and Lillet. House sodas like a passionfruit limeaid with jalapeño syrup appeal to non-drinkers in search of inspired mocktails. Picture-worthy, white-and-gold décor lends elegance to the space, whether you’re sipping in the late afternoon natural light or out on a dinner date after dark.

Two sommeliers walk into a bar—it’s not a joke—and soon it’s the hottest spot in town to drink wine. Sure, it’s a wine shop, but the comfy, welcoming blue-leather booths beg you to pop the cork and stay awhile. Owners Femi Oyediran and Miles White (whose sister runs Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit further down King Street) are among the city’s most respected oenophiles, and Graft lets you hang out, surrounded by shelves of incredible wines, priced reasonably. Spare wall space is decorated with vintage records that match the chill/hype soundtrack of funky jazz and hip-hop, depending on the mood and time of day. The minuscule venue hosts live music on Wednesdays and frequent pop-up dinners, plus a regular light menu of charcuterie and cheeses.