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Musician Nico Muhly’s Guide to Iceland

Overview

Greenland for Gourmets

Embrace a rustic, woodsy vibe at these timber lodges such as the Fairmont Le Château Montebello in Quebec.

New Zealand’s city hotels combine comfort with modern design touches, while the lodges and country houses—set amid coastal cliffs, pristine fjords, and the soaring Southern Alps—serve luxury with a side of drama.

Nanortalik, which means “the place with polar bears,” is the southernmost town in Greenland, located on an island of the same name. Founded in 1797 as a trading depot at the mouth of Tasermiut Fjord, the town is currently home to approximately 1,000 people. Although the island is named for polar bears, the chance of seeing these furry giants is fairly slim. What you will find, however, is a place of majestic beauty and friendly, welcoming residents. From the nearby Tasermiut Fjord, where rocky summits rise above a narrow glacial inlet, to the Qinngua Valley—the only forest in all of Greenland—Nanortalik is surrounded by natural wonders. Culturally there is just as much to experience. For history buffs, the Nanortalik Museum explores native, Old Norse and European colonial history as it shaped Greenland, with nine historic buildings and the world’s oldest umiak (sealskin boat). To appreciate the richness of Greenland’s traditions, be sure to attend a local choral concert where you’ll hear a unique blend of musical disciplines unlike any you’ve heard before.

Located near Cape Thorvaldsen, the town of Qaqortoq is the most populous town in southern Greenland. The area has a rich history, as it has been inhabited continuously since prehistoric times. You can still see traces of Thule and Norse cultures throughout the region, starting with the ruins of the 14th-century Hvalsey Church at the nearby Hvalsey Fjord.

The town of Qaqortoq is home to the oldest fountain in Greenland; completed in 1932, it depicts whales spouting water out of their blowholes. Most of the city’s main attractions, including restaurants and the Qaqortoq Museum, are located on or close to the main square.

Nearby sites of interest include Uunartoq Hot Springs—the only heated outdoor spa in Greenland—as well as Lake Tasersuaq and the permanent art installation Stone and Man, a series of 40 stone carvings by contemporary Nordic artists that is embedded into the landscape in and around Qaqortoq.

Reaching the remote Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge is part of the fun. The four-hour boat journey from Seward to the only lodge within the 700,000-acre Kenai Fjords National Park is a prime opportunity to spot porpoises, puffins, and whales. On arrival, guests disembark and make their way to the lodge, where they’re briefed on bear safety: No food allowed in the 16 cabins. Calving tidewater glaciers provide the wake-up call for days filled with sea kayaking, canoeing, and hiking. Come evening, relax in the main lodge with a cocktail or with a book from the lodge’s natural history library. From $725, all-inclusive. This appeared in the June/July 2015 issue.

Pretty islet Lille Herbern is located in the Oslo fjord, south of the Bygdøy peninsula on the west side of Oslo. The islet used to be a waiting place for ships arriving to and departing from Oslo. Lille Herbern has been open since 1929 and is one of the older eateries in Oslo. The menu has a nautical feel, serving fresh seafood along with gorgeous views of the fjord. To get there, hop on a bus to Bygdøynes and catch the ferry from there.

Stroll along the designated foot and biking path from Flåm to Otternes, which follows the rugged coastline of granite cliffs overlooking the dramatic fjord. Near the end of the four-kilometer route, the trail intersects with the steep road that leads up to Otternes Farm—a satisfying pit stop on a scenic journey.

Genuine Magallanes fare such as open-flame, spit-roasted lamb is what you find on the menu at this bucolic oceanside estate on the Eberhard Fjord in Patagonia. Aperitifs in hand, visitors can watch how the flavor-packed food that just keeps coming is prepared, and the service is a paean to Patagonia’s renowned hospitality. Connoisseurs recommend ordering the matambre, an especially tasty cut of beef. Tables hold parties of six or more, and individual diners are seated with whatever group can accommodate them. Reserve on the restaurant’s website (and remember that mobile service can be intermittent in this corner of the planet). Open mid-September to late April.

Centrally located in the fjord region of Western Norway, the 124 room Stalheim Hotel has a tremendous view and a wonderful history. This isn’t an intimate hotel experience, meaning that with that many rooms and this being the perfect central location for adventures by land or nearby fjord, there are a lot of bodies from bus tours at breakfast. But the charm of the hotel that dates back to 1885 lies in the warmth of the staff, the pride and presentation of the local folklore and the unbeatable view from your room and the back terrace garden. Don’t miss the chance to have a tour of the on-site Stalheim Folk Museum and ask the front desk for directions to the start of their favorite hikes nearby.

Situated on the Lyngen Fjord, this timber lodge is well suited for boat skiing. From March through May, a skipper ferries guests to nearby islands, where they hike up peaks and ski back to the beach.

One of Norway’s most iconic images is of a traveler dangling his legs over a cliff, a glistening fjord below his boots. Preikestolen, known in English as Pulpit Rock, is that cliff, and it can be reached only by a two-hour hike from the nearest car park. That doesn’t stop thousands of people from undertaking the journey from April to October, however. If you decide to join them, bring sturdy shoes, plenty of snacks and water, and warm clothing no matter what the weather. For a less strenuous day, take a ferry from Lysefjord to Stavanger—you’ll get to see the cliff from below and taste the water from the Hengjande waterfall.

Most people come to the tiny town of Ioannina to cruise Lake Pamvotida -- the town’s most popular landmark. You’ll find yourself on a small island in the middle of a beautiful fjord, where the water is smooth as glass and your surroundings are spectacular. Ioannina itself is an intellectual city, known particularly for its university. Several famous poets and novelists call this place home, and the city often runs several arts-related events year round.