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Throughout Budapest are a whopping 123 therapeutic hot springs, but these, in the stately, slightly dusty Hotel Gellért (built in 1918) might be the most famous. The communal bath in the center of the hotel spa is for everyone, but the most interesting traditional spa experience is in the back thermal pools, which have been coed since 2013. Here, join Hungarian locals in pools of varied temperatures, steam baths, and saunas, and jumping into ice-cold baths in between. Everyone takes their time to not only bask in the baths but also gaze at the Art Nouveau tiling on the walls and vaulted ceilings.

Ludwig museums crop up frequently throughout Europe—the Ludwigs were avid German art collectors who were also generous enough to make large donations and establish institutions in places like Cologne since the late 1980s—and Budapest is no exception. The collection of this particular Ludwig Museum, like the others, focuses on art made since the 1960s. Unlike the others, it has a decidedly Hungarian focus. Rotating exhibitions feature much avant-garde and often Eastern European art not easily or often seen elsewhere. The museum itself, which is situated inside the Müpa complex, is an airy, unadorned space to view the works.

Mark my words, MAK will receive a Michelin Star! The Chef’s Tasting menu was sublime—innovative offerings with caviar, sweet breads, foie gras (not surprising because every menu in Hungary features foie gras), duck, cod, and trout. The New York Times has taken notice of Mak, too, so reservations are recommended.

Fisherman’s Bastion was built between 1895 and 1902 on Buda’s Castle Hill not to provide protection, but rather as a lookout point—and this fairy-tale castle site, with its seven spired towers representing the seven tribe of Magyar (Hungarians) that settled here in the 9th century, is all about providing stunning views of the city, the Danube, and best of all the ornate parliament building across the river. In medieval times, a guild of fishermen protected this area, giving the bastion its name, and its construction coincided with the restoration of the nearby church. You can just walk around and drink in the beauty, or pay a small fee for a walk up a tower spire, to further amplify the amazing view.

The 60 pairs of iron shoes lined up along the promenade on the Danube River’s east bank are a part of the Shoes on the Promenade Holocaust Monument. Conceived by film director Can Togay and created in period style by sculptor Gyula Pauer, the iron shoe sculptures represent the footwear that fascist Arrow Cross militiamen ordered 3,500 Budapesters, 800 of them Hungarian Jews, to remove and leave behind just before they were executed at the edge of the water in 1944. Today the sculptures serve as a subtle, touching monument that gives new meaning to the saying “put yourself in his shoes.” A long bench runs behind the monument for reflection.

A huge dolomite rock rising up from Hotel Gellért at its base marks one of the earliest inhabited parts of Budapest. The citadel atop the hill was built by the Austrians in the mid-1800s to better control the unruly Hungarians after squashing the revolution (it was later used by German SS troops in World War II). Other monuments dot the verdant landscape atop the hill, which is now surrounded by posh residences. The walk up from the hotel is steep but worth it for the view once on high.

Founded in what was previously an artists’ residence, Brody House fittingly takes its name from Hungarian author Sándor Bródy. Each of the 11 air-conditioned rooms features a bohemian mix of upcycled furniture—think sofas with frames crafted from old shipping pallets and accent walls made with old wooden doors—and some have claw-foot tubs. The hotel is part of a larger effort that includes condo-style accommodations (Brody Apartments), a grand suburban villa (Brody Villa), and an art gallery (The Art Yard). However, the group’s best-known property is Brody Studios, a private-members club for the local arts communities featuring bars, workshops, and even a recording studio. All guests staying at Brody sites get free access to the space and its regular calendar of dance parties and literature- and art-related events as well as the occasional English-language comedy show.

Opened as the Grand Hotel Royal in 1896, the luxurious Corinthia Hotel has a long and storied past. It was here that the first film was ever screened in Budapest, and the building weathered fires and war before relaunching in its most recent incarnation in 2004. Travelers who really want to learn about the hotel’s history can take one of two weekly tours with manager Tibor Meskál, who has worked on and off here since 1961. Though the original interiors were demolished long ago, the property nevertheless retains a regal atmosphere. Italian limestone, Spanish marble, and gilded molding lend a sense of grandeur in the Grand Ballroom, a marble lobby is accented with swirling golden filigrees in the flooring, and guest rooms feature warm wood furnishings and creamy palettes. Even the leisure facilities skew toward the opulent: the courtyard-style indoor swimming pool is topped with a stunning stained-glass ceiling.

If you happen to be meandering through Budapest, and have the urge to do a little sightseeing, St. Stephen’s Basilica is definitely a sight to see. The structure is named in honor of Stephen, the first king of Hungary. Apparently, his right hand is also housed here, but fortunately I did not come across it during my explorations. What I did come across, and what will greet you upon entering, is a dazzling array of multicolored marble columns that soar to the heavens. What is not carved in relief on the walls is gilded in gold on the ceilings. The intricacy of the floor and the meticulous attention to detail will almost make you forget to look up. Ah, but when you do, what a sight to behold! The dome of St. Stephen’s is probably one of the more awe-inspiring views in Budapest. Natural light spills in from the etched windows to illuminate the works of art that seem to float above you, all while being surrounded by an inordinate amount of gold leaf. The visual masterpiece almost makes you want to clap - it makes you want to give King Stephen a hand.

The Rácz Hotel and Thermal Spa has its own hot spring, which supplies the extensive spa. The complex includes a 16th-century Turkish bath with a domed roof, saunas, steam rooms, and five pools. The oldest parts of the spa have no electricity, so guests are given waterproof lanterns to light their way. Rooms in the hotel offer some of the best views of the city.

An edgy crowd gathers at Szimpla Kert, a wacky ruin pub in the old Jewish Quarter. On entering, you’ll be overwhelmed by the maze of rooms, where you might find recycled computer monitors, towering piles of books, hookah pipes, or live music. Bars throughout pour beer and, of course, shots of pálinka.

Statues of Communist ideologues once dotted every city behind the Iron Curtain, but in the world’s rush to forget the Cold War, such monuments are hard to find these days. Not in Budapest—once East and West came together in the early 1990s, the city decided not to destroy the evidence. It rather collected about 40 monuments of figures like Vladimir Lenin, valiant soldiers, and even a huge sets of boots from a statue of Stalin, and in 1993 put them all in a park about 25 minutes by bus from Budapest’s city center. History buffs, especially, will find it worth the trek.

With six thermal pools, a large swimming pool, a wellness area, and an oft-Instagrammed rooftop jacuzzi, Rudas has been a full-service spa bathhouse since its restoration and renovation in 2014. Its center, however, reveals a centuries-long history: the octagonal pool under a domed ceiling and surrounded by old stone vaults and pillars, dates to 1550, the Ottoman occupation of Budapest, and is thus literally steeped in history. Though it initially only served men, Rudas now separates genders on weekdays (Tuesdays are for women) and offers coed bathing on weekends. Tip: single-gender bathing can be fabulously pressure-free and almost spiritual; Rudas is the only place that this is still possible. And Fridays and Saturdays, Rudas stays open until 4a.m. Tickets can be booked online.

This funky venue for experimental art of all kinds—theater, visual art, dance, performance, music, even circus arts—began as a transformer station, then later sat empty for 40 years until a group of artists began squatting there in the early 1990s. The city of Budapest bought and officially renovated the spaces, opening Trafó in 1998. The wildly varied program has been going strong ever since with event spaces, an exhibition room, and even a basement club for discourse and literary nights. Expect cutting-edge performances and an intellectual, offbeat crowd.

It’s hard to say what’s most appealing about the ultraluxurious Four Seasons Gresham Palace, a stately Art Nouveau hotel on the banks of the Danube. Perhaps it’s the central location, on the Pest side of the iconic Chain Bridge, or the swank accommodations, which range from lovely river-racing rooms with marble bathrooms and deep soaking tubs to sumptuous suites, the largest of which measures 1,464 square feet and features a dining room with crystal stemware and private butler service. With its top-floor infinity pool and picture windows overlooking the city, the spa alone makes a stay worthwhile—a coup in a city known for its thermal bath complexes—but for many travelers, it’s the hearty dishes served at Kollázs Brasserie & Bar (rotisserie lamb shoulder with eggplant and olives; octopus and scallops with potato paprikash) that seal the deal.