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An amateur baker apprentices with a Paris boulanger and learns the secret of artisan bread.

With hundreds of castles and chateaux in Belgium, open to the public, it’s hard to know which ones to visit. The castle of Freÿr, in Wallonia, is a great place to start. This grand building has remained in the same family for 20 generations and one wing is still home to the current owners. Exploring the interior of the castle is a must, as you’ll be visiting some of the same rooms as Louis XIV and the Archduchess Maria-Christina. The best place to take in the scope of the castle and its grand formal gardens, however, is across the river. You’ll need a good GPS or map to find the 2 unmarked lookout points. You’ll be rewarded for your diligence by this spectacular view.

Listing Montreal’s best restaurants is nothing short of a feat; indeed, Montreal has the second largest number of restaurants per capita in all of North America, with a new establishment setting up shop every week or so. From Italian trattorias to izakayas, from hole-in-the-wall bagel shops to classic eateries and French brasseries, to trendy Nordic-inspired and hipster-run taco shops, there is no such thing as leaving Montreal hungry.

Since first reading about Capri as a teenager, I had dreamed about a shop like this. Crammed with hundreds of colorful tunics and beach coverups, Antica Sartoria makes it easy to leave with a bag stuffed full of gifts for oneself and friends back home. The inexpensive resort wear makes liberal use of polka-dots, paisleys, and ornate designs. Not a shop for wallflowers. There’s another outlet in Positano.

A weekend trip to visit Berlin offers just enough time to explore some of the city’s history and cultural hotspots, and, of course, tuck into some German cuisine and street food (hello currywurst). If it’s a meet the locals sort of weekend you’re after, pick a few neighborhoods to focus on: perhaps the restaurants, street art, and galleries of Mitte and Friedrichshain? Don’t miss the East Side Gallery. And, on Sunday, Prenzlauer Berg for its open air flea market. A perfect weekend indeed.

One traveler discovers a tradition even richer than the cuisine.

There’s a lot more to the San Fermín festival than the running of the bulls. In Pamplona, a skeptic learns what it’s really like to attend the biggest summer fiesta in Basque country.

Skip the night markets if you’re after authentic handwoven textiles (most of what’s there comes from Thailand and Vietnam) and instead make a beeline for Weaves of Cambodia. Located in a sleek contemporary store attached to the Angkor Hospital for Children, the proceeds from your purchases go directly to the hospital, which provides free medical care to Cambodian kids an the disabled weavers of Preah Vihear who make these beautiful handwoven textiles, garments, accessories, and woven products, like cushions. I love the large vibrant textiles which make wonderful wall hangings and sideboard runners, however, there are also small inexpensive embroidered purses and wallets, like those above, that make great gifts that give back.

When Southern Ocean Lodge, the flagship property of Australian hotel brand Baillie Lodges, opened in 2008, it was Kangaroo Island’s first true luxury lodge, known for its cinematic spot atop grass-covered limestone cliffs, with curved guest suites facing the namesake seas. Surrounded on three sides by national parks, Southern Ocean Lodge connected travelers with Australia’s powerful natural landscapes. Then in early January 2020, wildfires consumed more than half of Kangaroo Island, reducing the ecological paradise to sandy hills and blackened branches. Southern Ocean Lodge was a casualty of the blaze.


As AFAR’s Katherine LaGrave reported in her feature on the island, rebuilding began in earnest in February 2022, with the goal of becoming more sustainable: “The new lodge will use 25 percent less energy than the original lodge, and diesel fuel consumption will be halved. There will be rainwater harvesting, reliance on a hybrid solar-and-battery system, and elevated boardwalks to minimize impact on the health of coastal plants. Smart landscaping will create a sort of buffer around the lodge.”



Along with the new sustainable choices, the lodge has replicated the footprint of the original property, with 25 guest rooms slightly reoriented to optimize sea views. A new ultra-premium suite, the Ocean Pavilion, has up to four bedrooms and bathrooms (or two separate suites) with an outdoor terrace and private pool. And the ever-popular main lodge still has a Great Room with a suspended fireplace and a deck with a plunge pool that juts toward the sea.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

Hoi An’s iconic noodle dish was tangled in mystery for decades. Then writer David Farley came to town.

In search of a flightless, sex-crazed, and rarely seen parrot in a land once ruled by birds.

Although everyone heads to France to see its chateaux, there are more than 3000 castles in Belgium and many are open to the public. A good place to start is the Chateau de Beloeil near Hainaut, in Wallonia. It has been in the hands of the same noble family since 1394. The rooms are filled with period furniture and artworks and the beautiful library contains over 20,000 titles. Sadly, the grounds seem a bit faded in their glory, but it’s still worth a walk to the far ends of the property for this stunning view of the chateau.

An intimate gem whose only shortcoming (in some eyes) is that it does not sit on Pink Sands Beach, the Rock House Hotel & Restaurant was a labor of love for the late Wallace Tutt, an interior designer to the stars who was best known for designing Gianni Versace’s Miami mansion. Ten individually decorated rooms in the 1940s private home turned boutique hotel echo that property’s grandeur with king size beds and seaside motifs, as well as sumptuous linens and stone lion heads mounted on the walls in the restaurant. But the real story here is the service: There is always a picnic basket on-hand in every room, a library of games and books is available for perusal on rainy days, and the concierge is happy to arrange in-room pampering treatments if the walk to the neighboring spa feels like too much trouble.

Ever wondered how it feels to sit behind one of those curtained windows in Amsterdam‘s Red Light District (RLD)? Find out from women who’ve been there at the Prostitute Information Center (PIC), near the statue of Belle on Oudekerksplein engraved with the words, “Respect sex workers all over the world.” Founded in 1994 by former prostitute Mariska Majoor, the PIC offers a glimpse into Amsterdam’s infamous sex trade while working to reduce prejudice and misunderstanding about window prostitution. In its furnished mock-brothel room, soak in the vibe of a place dedicated to satisfying prurient needs for a price. Learn about Amsterdam’s intriguing sex industry in the mini-museum and check out Jaap Majoor’s paintings of prostitutes and his haunting mural depicting the RLD. While Mariska’s father abhorred the idea of his teenage daughter working as a prostitute, painting enabled him to portray some of the beauty of sex-for-hire and to work out his feelings about Mariska’s chosen profession. The PIC offers walking tours of the RLD, as well as presentations about prostitution aimed at providing an accurate view of the world’s oldest profession―a practice that’s been legal throughout the Netherlands since 2000. Pick up a book about Amsterdam’s sex industry, a painting or other souvenir of your visit to the PIC in the Wallenwinkel, adjacent to the center. Purchases help the PIC survive, as it receives no governmental support.