Search results for

Feast your eyes upon the Francesinha. What is in this curious looking sandwich, you ask? Heaven. Sausage. Cheese. Port wine. Onions. And a bit more heaven. If you visit Porto - and why wouldn’t you visit the home of Port wine - you’ll come to know the Francesinha. How well you come to know this sammy has a direct correlation to how good of a time you have in this gem of a throwback European town. Restaurants throughout Porto claim that they were the first to invent this sammy or that they were the first to add foi gras or the first to serve it with prawns - none of that matters. All that is important is that you ear more than your fair share of one of the world’s sauciest culinary marvels. And that you do it with a pint of beer, and a glass of port nearby.

To get to know the neighborhood and its daily life, nothing beats a stroll through Alfama’s streets. It is the oldest and one of the most typical neighborhoods in Lisbon. Here you might see two women chatting at the window (well, screaming) while hanging the laundry; people sitting outside on small wooden benches or the entrance steps to old houses; and, of course, people listening to fado. The sounds of fado can come from a fado restaurant or from an old tavern (here fado is called Fado Vadio since it is sung by nonprofessionals after drinking aguardiente). On the nights of June 12 and 13, Alfama celebrates Santos Populares, when the streets are adorned with colorful little flags, the air is aromatic with smoke and smell of sardines, the beer is flowing, and music is everywhere.

When hotelier Sean MacPherson opened the Ludlow he totally nailed the unique spirit of Manhattan’s Lower East Side. The 175-room hotel is the perfect mix of gritty and stylish, cool and calm. Rooms are done up in that signature MacPherson style with unique artisan touches including handmade silk rugs, artisan—crafted Moroccan pendant lamps and Indo-Portuguese-style beds. The “and” factor amenities include bathrobes from cult Paris fashion label Maison Martin Margiela and a Rockstar suite with a 1,100-foot terrace with Williamsburg Bridge views. The lobby is always abuzz, no matter what the hour and features a rotating selection of art curated by Vito Schnable as well as an outdoor “secret” garden that’s perfect for hiding away with your laptop or a good book. Breakfast is included for guests and the warm pastry basket should not be missed. Perhaps the highlight of any stay is the fact you’re right above Dirty French, one of NYC’s buzziest restaurants. Being an elevator ride away from the complimentary herb-seasoned flatbread is reason alone to book a stay.

The name of this little-known Alfama gem means simply “Aunt Natércia,” and that’s exactly who will greet you if you manage to snag a seat. Here, you’ll find no-frills, home-cooked Portuguese dining, with classic dishes like bacalhau com natas (oven-baked salted cod with fried potatoes and cream), arroz de pato (duck rice), and folhado de bacalhau (salted cod in puff pastry) being upstaged only by Aunt Natércia herself. She’ll talk your ear off in Portuguese while she cooks and serves—it’s a one-woman show—but her food is so good you won’t even care. Reserve ahead.

I often go to Chiado for dinner, a drink, or a visit to Bertrand bookshop, and every time I pass the door of Paris em Lisboa I breathe deeply—so that I feel the wonderful smell that comes from this store. Founded in 1888, it was chosen by Queen Amélia to be the official supplier to the royal palace. In the 1930s, due to customers’ changing habits, it created a section for household items. Nowadays it sells bed, bath, kitchen and table linens, and other accessories.

If you ask anyone in town where you can eat the best fried octopus fillets, the answer will be: Casa Aleixo! Facing Campanhã train Station, you can’t miss it, and you shouldn’t! Founded by a gentleman from Galicia, it was later bought by Ramiro Gonçalves and is now run by his son, Ramiro Gonçalves. Mr. Ramiro Gonçalves (the father) came up with the idea of doing the fried octopus fillets and to ensure quality he would go daily to Povoa do Varzim (35km North of Porto) to purchase the freshest octopus. And the tradition is kept by his son! Every meal is prepared in the “laboratory” (the kitchen) and wine comes from the “pharmacy” (wine cellar) and at the end of the meal you’ll be asked to move to the “torture chamber”, where you’ll drink coffee and pay the check!

A Lisbon favorite, this family-run chocolate-and-coffee café is continually showered by locals with love and devotion. Here, both the coffee and cocoa beans come from São Tomé and Príncipe. The former are roasted in-house and perfectly executed in one of Lisbon’s best espressos, while the latter are churned into artisan chocolate bars in outstanding flavors like ginger, orange, sea-salt-and-pepper, and toffee. If you order an espresso, you’ll get a free sample of chocolate so you can suss out your favorite before committing to a pricier piece of heaven.

Here you’ll find all manner of steaks and chops, sides and beverages, but if you’re looking for the ultimate Brazilian cut, ask for a picanha ao braseiro, a two-person portion, seared on both sides in its own juices (let them know if you need it more well-done). It comes with fried potatoes (best served à portuguesa, i.e., round and crunchy), broccoli-rice salad and farofa (manioc meal) plus bananas and a (you guessed it) fried egg. It’s the kind of celebration that calls for free-flowing beer. Even when you’re satiated, leave room for dessert: fried plantain and sweet-cream ice. Look around to see the line is as long as when you arrived—now it all makes sense.

Continental’s downstairs bar—with a marble countertop and chilies, garlic, and aged ham hanging overhead—transports diners to Spain or Portugal. Despite the old-world ambience, however, the menu and staff are young and playful. Pop in for a meatball sub and vermouth at lunch, or enjoy king-crab-stuffed zucchini flowers before moving on to slow-roasted lamb in the upstairs bistro. In either case, complement your meal with something canned—the deli’s specialty— whether it’s the seafood plate of the day or a “Cosmopoli-tin” cocktail. A whole wall of canned and jarred concoctions are also available to take home. In 2018, a second, and larger, outpost of Continental Deli was opened in the CBD.

Are you looking for a funny, original, and practical gift? In this shop you will find it. Pillow cases with phrases like “I love you too” or with swallows or frogs (that might turn into a prince). If you take your lunch to work, check out the lunch set (bag, box, and pot). And for the kitchen, there are many colorful accessories. Some time ago, I bought a scratch map, where you can scratch the countries you’ve visited. The shop also had another map where you color the countries visited till you have the all world in color. And you can take it with you, because it comes in a tube.

The city’s iconic wood-paneled Tram 28 rambles along a 4.3-mile route from Campo de Ourique to Praça Martim Moniz, navigating tight turns and steep inclines as it passes some of Lisbon’s most endearing attractions. Originally commissioned in the 1930s, these classic Remodelado trams were in fact enlisted for their ability to handle Lisbon’s hilly terrain. They can get painfully crowded—wait times can be outrageous in the high season—so catch an early ride (5:40 a.m. most weekdays, or 6:45 a.m. on Sundays) for unobstructed views of hilltop neighborhoods like Graça and the Alfama.

What began as a recreation area for immigrants from Brazil’s northeast is now a destination for visitors looking to get off the beaten tourist path. The densely populated São Cristóvão quarter is home to this enormous complex, open seven days a week, to which visitors may arrive at a reasonable hour and not get out before dawn. Afternoons are for shopping and noshing; but after dark, the volume goes up, and the marketplace becomes a scene for partying, pop-up karaokes, and live-music performances that are 100-proof Brazil. Authentic northeastern music known as forró plays until sunup.

In the Rossio in Lisbon, there is a tiny, very popular tavern called “Ginjinha Sem Rival” (Ginjinha Without Rivals or The Best Ginjinha), 7 Rua Portas de Santo Antao. This shop was the first to sell this now famous liqueur. The family has produced this brew for about 150 years and opened this establishment after about 27 years, in 1890. They value their recipe and the family still runs the tavern. Ginjinha is a concoction of water, cinnamon, sugar, aguardente (fire water), and sour cherries. Many people really enjoy it. I am sorry to admit that I have tried it and I do not. Stand in the little area by the Church of St. Domingues and watch the people (tourists and locals alike) wait their turn at the small counter. Almost all seem to enjoy the ginjinha and the ritual wait. They step up and the owner pours the drink and asks “Com o sem”? (with or without?) You decide if you want the cherries or not. Be forewarned - the cherries hold most of the liquor and are pretty potent! Stop by and try ginjinha and see if you like it. You might want to try another tavern or two and compare the liqueurs. This is a fun stop to add to your “to do list” in Lisbon.

Thanks to the grandson of the founder (Manuel Aquino de Azevedo Rua), who now manages the shop, this lovely place is still open. Notable people like Fernando Pessoa and Spain’s King Carlos have been among its customers. Even with fashion changes over the years, the hat shop has been able to keep on going, adapting to new times. It has hats for men and women. Do you need a wedding hat, a beret, or a fancy number with plumes? Take a look at this shop.

When in Lisbon, most tourists make a beeline to Antiga Confeitaria to try its world-famous pastel de Belém. The legendary custard tart is indeed delicious, especially when dusted with a healthy dose of cinnamon, but what these travelers don’t know is that is that the ones at Manteigaria are just as good—if not better. Plus, Manteigaria features an open kitchen, where you can watch the creamy treats make their way from dough to delivery. Avoid the crowds in Belém and get your pastel de nata here instead, then ride out your sugar rush nearby on the atmospheric Praça Luís de Camões in Chiado.