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I love all of the McMenamins properties I’ve stayed at over the years on travel through the Pacific Northwest, but I may have a new favorite: McMenamins Edgefield in Troutdale, right at the western mouth of the Columbia River Gorge. As always, the hotel honors the past of the building it now resides in, it has great food and drink, and every inch is covered in whimsical art that demands you have a good time. Historic Edgefield was built in 1911 as the county poor farm, and it’s now a 74-acre hotel and playground, home to award-winning farm-to-table cuisine, a winery, a brewery, three pubs, movie theater, golf course, you name it. With 100 guest rooms and hostel accommodations, the instant you step on the grounds you’ll be able to tell that community and creativity are cherished here. If you’re traveling solo or out on a long trip and looking to save some money on the hotel part, I’d encourage you to look at their rooms that don’t have a private bathroom en suite. Instead, you head to the large, comfy, and private communal restrooms to get cleaned up. Brilliant. This is a great spot to launch your explorations along the Columbia River Gorge, and if you live in the Portland area, it’s a great place to gather for a weekend bike ride, grub with fellow friends, and a few cold pints around the outdoor fire pits when things get cold. With films and live music nightly, it’s hard not to want to just live here forever.

New York, Tokyo, and other major cities are home to startling numbers of authentic Neapolitan pizzerias, many with ovens handmade by Neapolitan craftsmen. In those places, pizza making is definitely considered an elevated craft. Perhaps Neapolitans do not think of their cooks as artists because so much of the city’s cuisine is rooted in cucina popolare, or people’s food. What strikes me most about the food of Naples is the uniformly high standards in even the humblest restaurants. That goes for pizzas as well, which makes it impossible to single out one pizzeria. Or so I thought until I visited La Notizia, located up in the hills on the edge of the gritty working-class borough of Fuorigrotta (too far from central Naples to be reached on foot). Owner-chef Enzo Coccia is as obsessed with the details of materials and technique as any Neapolitan tailor.

From my first bite, Coccia’s pizza struck me as something categorically different and decidedly better than anything I had tasted in Naples—or anywhere else in the world. It was feather light but still chewy, the way Neapolitan pizza should be. The thin middle crust didn’t dissolve into a soupy blend of cheese and tomato. When I asked Coccia about his technique, he formed two small test rounds of dough. He flattened one by hand; the other he rolled out with a can. He threw them both into the wood-burning oven and pulled them out 30 seconds later. The hand-formed dough was light and airy. The can-leveled dough was dense. “I prepare my dough at seven in the morning,” said Coccia. “It needs 14 to 16 hours to rise. I make only 300 pizzas’ worth of dough, and when that’s done, we close. Of course it takes the best and freshest ingredients—artisan mozzarella and local extra virgin olive oil—but it’s more than that. You need a passion for the traditional way. Then pizza can be as artisanal as a suit. 39/(0) 081-714-2155. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue.

This Lisbon restaurant, more than 30 years old, is known for its creative take on Portuguese gastronomic traditions. An extensive wine list represents the many regions of the country offering opportunities to explore by simply ordering a glass. Other bonuses: the restaurant’s glorious views over the river and its location, behind the Santa Apolónia train station, less than five minutes from the National Pantheon.

Why we love it: Tanzania’s first Design Hotel delivers eco-chic 20 miles off the coast

Highlights:
- A very haute take on African village architecture with 56 thatched bungalows, suites and villas
- The sight of dhows (traditional wooden sailboats) silhouetted at sunset
- Lush tropical landscaping with a spice garden flourishing over a quarter of the 32-acre grounds

The review: Set on the equator, Zanzibar glows with color from the pearl-hued beach to lush vegetation and the turquoise Indian Ocean. “Zuri” means “beautiful in Kiswahili, the island’s language, and the hotel delivers on this promise at every turn. Of especial note: the carved doorframes, contemporary African art and locally made furniture, often crafted from old dhows. Enjoy nice upcycled touches too like the rainbow of hanging lamps in the open-air Peponi bar, made from old bottles.

Tucked on a west-facing slope, most of the accommodations face the sapphire Indian Ocean, and all have large terraces with bold-colored hammocks and wicker furniture. They also boast outdoor showers, where concrete floors contrast with curtains of paper beads, handmade by artisans at the female-led social enterprise Chaka. Inside, the warm tones of Tanzanian teak and eucalyptus compliment the nyasi (grass) thatch from the mainland. Make sure to veil your bed with the mosquito net, which contains an energy-efficient cooling system!

Bungalows can sleep up to two adults and some have hot tubs. Suites step things up with larger terraces, living rooms and private outdoor Jacuzzis. Or really splash out with an exclusive oceanfront villa that can host up to six adults, complete with an infinity pool and private swathe of sand.

Guests can dine on the shore, at the pool or in one of the beachfront restaurants. Expect a fusion of African, Indian and Arabian cuisine, though European and Middle Eastern elements come into play as well. Zuri Zanzibar is especially strong on shisha (hookah) offerings and sugar-cane cocktails, along with dishes like beef samosas, coconut-milk ceviche, octopus-tentacle salad and pilau rice with kachumbari (a tomato-onion salad popular in the African Great Lakes region).

It doesn’t get more quintessentially Australian than this: waking up to a symphony of kookaburras and the heady scent of eucalyptus, the sight of kangaroos roaming freely about the 7,000-acre nature reserve. You might be tricked into thinking you’d slept under the stars—if it weren’t for the four-poster bed, flicker of a warm fire, and sunrise reflected from the glittering private pool. A three hours’ drive west of Sydney, this luxury ecolodge feels worlds away, surrounded by sandstone bluffs and sweeping plains filled with leafy gumtrees and Wollemi pines. It has 40 homestead-style villas that are as eco-friendly as they are indulgent: materials sourced within a 60-mile radius, solar panels for hot water and lighting. Highlights include the Aussie cuisine, mostly grown and sourced within 100 miles of the resort (and included in the all-inclusive rate, along with a premium minibar). A fruit orchard and edible garden supplies organic herbs, vegetables, fruits, and nuts.


The most intriguing aspect of the property is an original farmhouse, built around 1832, that hosted Charles Darwin in 1836. Today, the homestead functions as a museum that highlights the Indigenous, settler, and agricultural history of the valley. The comprehensive program of activities gets guests off the homestead: There are peaks to climb, glowworms to ogle, and horses to ride. Following a landslide in 2022, Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley has faced access issues. It is temporarily closed.

Why we love it: A historic property full of local details that make guests feel at home in Minneapolis

The Highlights:
- Prime location in the trendy North Loop
- Site of one of Minneapolis’s best restaurants, Tullibee
- Local literature, artwork, and spirits in every room

The Review:
A former farm implement warehouse, the Hewing Hotel has a rustic yet refined sensibility. Located in the heart of the North Loop, just a short walk from some of Minneapolis’s best restaurants and shops, the property mixes exposed timber and brick, tall ceilings, and original industrial elements with high-end finishes, creating an environment that’s at once local and luxurious. Available in five different layouts, the 124 rooms, including 14 suites, are individually designed with exposed wood, metal, and brick accents, plus local details like books, artwork, minibars, and Faribault Woolen Mills throws that speak to Minneapolis. Should you be traveling with your pet, simply pay a $75 fee and you’ll find their name written on a chalkboard alongside those of other furry guests, all under the heading “V.I.Pets,” as well as a treat-stocked bowl in your room.

Although Hewing guests are surrounded by one of the city’s most vibrant neighborhoods, they’ll want to save at least one night for dining at the hotel’s renowned restaurant, Tullibee, which serves rustic Nordic cuisine alongside craft cocktails, local beers, and house-made sodas. For something more casual, head to the Rooftop Bar & Lounge for drinks and city views. Also on the roof is a pool and Nordic-inspired sauna, though guests may be more inclined to visit the Hewing Spa, where they can enjoy a range of massages, plus add-on services like wraps, scrubs, and face masks. When you want something more active, head to the 24-hour fitness facility, stocked with treadmills, stationary bikes, and elliptical trainers; the yoga studio, which offers weekly classes through Gem Life Yoga; or the front desk, where you can rent a custom Handsome bicycle to explore the city.

Towering palms and a true Scottsdale vibe greet guests of the Westin Kierland Resort & Spa, located in northern Scottsdale. Families will love features like the Adventure Water Park, which has a lazy river perfect for floating on a sunny day, a water slide, and even a spot to do some desert-style surfing on the FlowRider. A kid-friendly light show takes place seasonally at night, and the projection onto the hotel makes the building look like it has come to life. For the grown-ups, the property is an even better place to play. By day, go for a round of golf on the award-winning links, lounge at the adults-only pool, or enjoy a massage at Agave, the Arizona Spa (the namesake plant, native to the area, is used in many of the treatments). By night, choose from four on-site dining options—not including cozy in-room bites. Be sure to make a reservation at Deseo, where Chef de Cuisine Derek Biazo serves up delicious contemporary Latin American small plates (try the hamachi ceviche with truffle ponzu sauce, and definitely don’t skip dessert or the exceptional wine list). Tipplers will also appreciate the open-nightly Scotch Library, which boasts more than 300 labels and kilt-clad Scotch Ambassadors who can guide you through a tasting. The Scotch Library is one of the hotel’s many tributes to the area’s history and culture. Scottish immigrants played a role in establishing the early economy of Arizona, and homage to that heritage is evident not only in the Scotch Library but also in the sunset bagpipe shows and the offering for golfers to play Scottish-themed golf. Other nods to local culture include the rehabilitated desert reptiles in the lobby (don’t worry, they’re enclosed) and room decor highlighting important personalities and moments from Arizona’s history like female pilot Ruth Reinhold, who taught pilots in World War II and eventually became Arizona Senator Barry Goldwater’s personal pilot.

For 20 years now, the Spring Mountain corridor north of the Las Vegas Strip has been a hotbed of hot pots—and every other Asian dish under the desert sun. When celebs such as Anthony Bourdain and Penn Jillette raved about the real-deal northern Thai cuisine at Lotus of Siam, chowhounds followed. Tell your friends you’re finally making the trip out to the strip mall and they’ll tell you to avoid the items you can order from the takeout joint at home: no pad thai, no chicken satay. They’re right. Dive into the last page of the menu, the one about dishes from Northern Thailand, then entrust your tastebuds to the award-winning hands of Chef Saipin Chutima and try her larb or the jackfruit curry, anything with ground pork sausage, the khao soi (egg noodles and meat in a coconut curry sauce), the nam prik ong (a chunky mix of pork, tomato, and red chili, served with lettuce and raw vegetables), or the whole fish with chilis. The food is spicy, yes, and the afterburn is serious, but the depth of flavor is sublime enough to make you weep with regret the next time you have to call your local takeout place for delivery.

Just inland from Ensenada, Baja California exists a wonderland of fine wine, haciendas and Provencal restaurants. There is an energy here that is worth dawning the bullet proof vest and heading a couple hours south of the Mexican boarder to check out the excitement and culinary innovation. In the Valle de Guadalupe wineries and restaurants are redefining where fine wine comes from and what Mexican cuisine can be. The Valle de Guadalupe sits in a valley that warms through the day and is cooled every evening by the onshore flow off the ocean, allowing perfect conditions for grape growing; which has been going on here for over a hundred years. Additionally, the valley is a source of fine olive oil, locally grown herbs and produce, local farms and seafood from the nearby ocean. The best way to experience this culinary movement is to stay at a winery like Adobe Guadalupe or Vinedos Malagon in the heart of the valley. These wineries offer more than just wine tasting and luxury, they offer activities, ranging from horseback riding to cooking classes, deep sea fishing or dirt biking. The best part of it all is you can still fill up on classic Mexican tacos and mariscos when the fine dining and wine becomes too much.

Situated on the Lyngen Fjord, this timber lodge is well suited for boat skiing. From March through May, a skipper ferries guests to nearby islands, where they hike up peaks and ski back to the beach.

Helmed by Chef Danny Trace, a New Orleans native whose resume includes stints at Commander’s Palace and Cafe Adelaide, Brennan’s is the kind of place you go to for well-executed classics: Oysters Rockefeller, Shrimp and Grits, Gulf Fish Pontchartrain. But should you happen to venture into less predictable territory, you’ll be just as pleased. Still, every meal should end with bananas foster prepared tableside.

Inspired by a former Ford car dealership that once sat on the site in upscale Mission Hills, Fort Oak’s interior mixes old and new; hexagonal tiles and brass accents give the space a vintage feel, while a black oak communal table and plank flooring bring a modern industrial vibe. Executive Chef Brad Wise excels at wood-fired cuisine—the exhibition kitchen has a 7,000-pound grill and range where he fires up 45-day dry-aged ribeye and Australian wagyu beef—but what really sets Fort Oak apart is a raw bar serving seafood towers and buttery hamachi poke. For a decadent night out, slide into Fort Oak’s chef’s counter for a six-course tasting menu cooked by Wise (offered Wednesday and Thursday nights every other week; reserve ahead).

If you are looking for a quiet meal, this is not the place for you. But if you want mouth-watering, inventive food with attentive service and authentic Israeli hospitality, Machneyuda hits the spot. Situated in the iconic Jerusalem shuk, or marketplace, the restaurant is the brainchild of three acclaimed chefs: Yossi Elad, Assaf Granite, and Uri Navon. The kitchen showcases locally sourced ingredients prepared with modern creativity and classic techniques. The lively dining room is focused on creativity. For the restaurant’s signature dessert presentation, tables are covered with aluminum foil and covered with a dizzying variety of cakes, fruits, ice creams, and sweets.

Kinsterna Hotel & Spa is in an 800-year-old mansion. Guestrooms feature such details as original fireplaces and Byzantine domes. The hammamlike spa was inspired by the natural springs that flow through the property.

From $234. 30/273-206-6300.

This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.

Take a stroll down one of the cobbled streets of Valladolid and you might come across a cart peddling “volcanos.” The busy vender sells one item: a thick masa bun stuffed with chili marinated pulled pork and topped with red onion. For an extra kick, pour on a spoonful of homemade habenero sauce, but be careful! These small pockets pack heat.