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Overview

AFAR staffers wax poetic about their most significant solo adventures.

Wandering Chef: Masaharu Morimoto in Oahu

Featured Artisan: Andrew Fallshaw

The island of Hokkaido gets more snow than almost anywhere else in the world. To make the most of a visit, you’ll need to see the mountains through Japanese eyes. And bring an appetite for sushi.

Wandering Chef: J&G Grill’s Matt Harris in Jackson Hole, Wyoming

A Spontaneous Trip to Cuba

There are over 100 excellent guest ranches in the Western U.S., offering a range of family vacations. Brush Creek Ranch, in southern Wyoming, is one of the more exclusive properties, offering an enormous range of activities on 15,000 acres of stunning high-mountain ranchland. This is the main lodge building, looking out over the horse pastures.

After a five-year, $30 million renovation, The Adelphi is Saratoga’s grande dame once more. Housed in a stately building from 1877, the hotel takes its design cues from the Victorian era, featuring everything from ornate wall moldings to brass lighting fixtures and tufted-leather headboards. Modern conveniences also abound, including hidden storage cabinetry and marble bathrooms with freestanding tubs and glass showers. Downstairs, carved horseheads at Morrissey’s bar are the only reference to Saratoga’s racing heritage, but the area’s farmers get their due at the Blue Hen, the hotel’s farm-to-table brasserie, and Salt + Char, its rustic-chic steakhouse.

With its white, single-story exterior and dark window frames, this 12-room inn on the Saratoga Race Course looks like a Tudor take on a vintage motor hotel. Once inside, however, visitors realize the boutique property is much more luxurious than a roadside motel. Rooms feature light-wood bed frames and equine-inspired art, while the bar offers an excellent wine and cocktail menu, which regular happy hours featuring Moscow mules served in copper mugs. There’s also an outdoor patio, where the hotel can arrange barbecue meals on request, and free bike rentals for those who wish to venture farther into town.

Having been raised on National Geographic magazines, I have always been fascinated by western landscape of America. The jagged peaks of Tetons have been on my to-see list ever since I have known the works of Ansel Adams. Last labor day weekend, my husband and I could finally make a trip to Grand Teton National Park in northwestern Wyoming. We started our trip by flying into Salt Lake City, Utah and then drove about 5 hours north to Jackson Hole in Wyoming. The roads are beautiful, the landscape mind blowing. We were in the Jackson Hole area for about 4 days and one of the days we left our car behind and instead rented a bike to go back and forth between the Teton National Park and Yellowstone Nat Park. It was worth every single aching muscle :)

“Are we still going to ride?” I ask, glancing at the storm rolling off the jagged peaks of the Absaroka mountains. Wrangler Dallin Maples, 25, responds by handing me a long, yellow raincoat as the first drops splat on the hard brim of my hat. “The trails up the hill will be too slick,” Maples says, “so we’re going exploring.” With that, he pulls his horse into the trees, and three of us follow. I’m visiting T Cross Ranch, a small, rustic guest operation in northwest Wyoming, with my wife and three daughters. As a schoolteacher about to start another busy year, I wanted to bring my family somewhere special before hectic schedules take over our lives — somewhere quiet, where we would be forced to turn off our toys and actually listen to each other. Holing up in a simple log cabin at the end of a remote mountain road seemed like just the ticket, and the old-fashioned family fun of a guest ranch seemed like the perfect level of excitement. Dates: Open through late September Highlights: This small, remote ranch embodies traditional Western hospitality, and they have spectacular, well-kept horses, to boot. Rates: $1,690 adults for six nights

Lake Geneva is one of the gems of the Cloud Peak Wilderness. The picturesque lake, nestled in between great rocky mountains and old pine forest, is roughly 3.5-miles from the Coffeen Park trailhead, which makes it a breeze to access for hikers of even moderate experience. The trail to Geneva skirts Edelman Creek and runs past beautiful Duncan Lake, a host of old mine camps, and finally runs through the Big Goose Creek at a crossing that is at once thrilling and quite safe.

Geneva is one of my favorite destinations in the Cloud Peak Wilderness because it serves so many purposes - I love to overnight near the shore when taking off on long backpacking adventures, I get a kick out of running the trail to the lake when I’m feeling spry, and I’ve found few places this picturesque during all my time in the mountains. The view from Geneva Pass (pictured here) is simply unparalleled.

After driving just over six hours from Denver into the northern reaches of Wyoming, I needed to crash for the night. Taking the Buffalo (population 4,585) exit off the interstate, I cruised towards downtown passing a Holiday Inn Express, a Super 8, and a Day’s Inn. Did I really have to spend the night in a modern matchbox of a room? No, in fact, I didn’t. I used one of my lifelines and called a friend, asking her to do a quick Google search. Bingo! She said, “Go to the Occidental!” almost in the same tone Horace Greeley had uttered, Go West, young man.” In the front window, a sign read: “Wireless in 1880 and still wireless. Internet in all rooms!” I opened the front door and walked directly into the 19th century – a Tiffany chandelier, an embalmed moose head, and a roaring fireplace in the lobby of this 130-year-plus historic hotel. According to the owner, the Occidental’s been witness to a parade of Western icons: Butch Cassidy, Calamity Jane, Buffalo Bill, Owen Wistler, and Teddy Roosevelt. I kind of liked the idea I’d be sleeping under the same roof, as had this gang of five. Fully restored in 2007, the names of the rooms themselves conjure up another era: The Bordello, Cowboy Bunkhouse, and Madam’s Retreat, to name a few. I happily wound up in the Cottonwood Suite, boasting a four-poster king bed, an ensuite bathroom, and dressing room. Twenty-first century comfort amidst 19th century antiques. If you’re in the area, this is the place to spend the night.

The proprietress, her team, and the Mushroom Stand have become important staples at the Baltimore Farmers’ Market. With a huge following in Baltimore, she is known to many as the “Mushroom Lady” because she sells the most amazing mushroom dishes. The favorite (well, my favorite really) are the mushroom fritters: oyster mushrooms, beer-battered, fried, served over greens with sheep’s cheese, basil, and their special homemade hot sauce (if you like hot sauce, you should ask for a generous helping). Other equally great dishes include the portobello quinoa and portobello sandwiches. The portobellos are marinated and roasted on what looks like a big smoker. All dishes are served with the cheese and hot sauce. A logistical note: the wait can usually be a bit long, but you’ll make friends with fellow mushroom lady groupies in the process. Do a lap around the expansive market and you’ll run into a long line towards the back (not far from the pit beef stand) where people are waiting for their mushroom dishes. You’ll pay first near the fresh mushrooms and you’ll be given a number. Find a table or a parking block and don’t wait to eat. You’ll guaranteed be asked what amazingness you’re eating or bond with fellow Mushroom Stand patrons over the deliciousness.