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L’Express, on rue St-Denis in the Plateau Mont-Royal neighborhood, opened in 1980 and has about it the air of a beloved institution. Indeed, with its timeless style, it feels even older than it is. This popular spot serves classic renditions of bistro fare—steak tartare, bone marrow, onion soup—into the early morning hours (2 a.m. except for Sundays, when it closes at 1 a.m.). When the kitchen ventures into new territory, the results are impressive. The spaghetti with mushrooms is unconventional in its presentation (topped with a healthy serving of arugula)—one of those dishes you try on the road and then want to re-create at home. Reservations recommended.

Rustic elegance is the order of the day at La Champagnerie, a champagne-only bar in Old Montreal. Between the delicious cocktails, heaven-sent food, and exposed brick walls of this historic building, the drinking experience will be memorable. The menu features over 50 different brands of bubbly (including real champagne, cava, and prosecco) and a very entertaining sabering act, as well as brie poutine and oysters. Contrary to popular belief, la Champagnerie isn’t that expensive. Yes, there is the odd $500+ bottle, but visitors can easily enjoy a meal and a cocktail or two without needing to remortgage their house. A very nice way to spend an evening, if you ask me—champagne, Old Montreal, and good music. Santé!

Ask any Montrealer the question “Which is the fanciest restaurant in town?” and chances are Toqué! will be a frequent answer. Indeed, quite fancy. But also quite expensive. Luckily, chef Charles-Antoine Crête, once mentored by Toqué’s Normand Laprise, decided that a more accessible and younger version of the famous restaurant would fit perfectly well with the new Place des Festivals—in style, location, and ambience. And he wasn’t wrong. I always go for the beef tartare, and not once have I been disappointed. The menu changes according to the season, but there is a constancy in quality, regardless of the time of the year. This is definitely the best way to get a taste of Montreal‘s finest, sans the waiting list and the steep check.

Stretching a formidable 27 miles, Jasper’s Skyline Trail is a challenge for all but the most seasoned hikers. The journey is worth undertaking—nearly two-thirds of the route is above the tree line, which means you’ll enjoy stunning panoramic views as the rule rather than the exception. The path runs from Maligne Lake back to the town of Jasper at the foot of Signal Mountain, traversing the Maligne Range mountains in the middle. There’s a short window during which you can enjoy this trail, typically from late July until mid-September. The classic trip includes two nights of camping at Snowbowl and Tekarra campgrounds, but if you’re pressed for time, hike like the locals: Many Jasperites choose to start early and finish late, conquering the entire length in a single day.

Reasonably priced food is somewhat hard to come by in the upscale hamlet of Lake Louise, which is why Bill Peyto’s Café is such a find. Located in the HI Lake Louise Alpine Centre hostel and within walking distance of the Samson Mall, Peyto’s has a sizable dining room and an outdoor patio that’s perfect for relaxing on warm, sunny days. The menu is almost as vast as a classic Greek diner’s, including everything from a Thai stir-fry to a traditional poutine, but its dishes are executed flawlessly. (If you’re looking for standard pub fare, you can choose from plenty of burger options.) Servings are generous and cheap, meaning you’ll want to arrive early to lock down a table—especially in the summer.

This urban icon started as a hippie food truck housed in a surf shop parking lot on Vancouver Island. It has since blossomed into three restaurants, two burrito bars, a taco joint, and two food trucks, located everywhere from Hastings-Sunrise and Yaletown to Gastown and the Financial District. Chef Stefan Hartmann, who once ran a Michelin-starred restaurant in Berlin, now captains these elevated spots along with founder Jason Sussman. Expect nuanced options like chorizo-kale, pork al pastor with pineapple, and chicken with pickled vegetables, all on soft wheat tortillas for six to seven dollars. Also noteworthy are the meat-free dishes like “vegetable scrapple”—a delicious fritter of squash and chickpeas, topped with herbed tomatoes. And don’t overlook the octopus tostada—Tacofino not only sources seafood sustainably but also participates in Vancouver’s Climate Smart program and is working toward being a zero-waste business.

Regulars at this Little Italy joint (and there are lots of regulars) flock here more for the friendly atmosphere and the cheap drinks than for the two bowling lanes that gave it its name (“quilles” is “bowling” in French). Games do happen though, usually more as the night goes on, unless it’s one of the nights when a band uses the lanes as a stage. The drinks are nothing special except that most moments in this down-home haven end up being special, and they go wonderfully with the vegetarian burritos made on the spot. Take a spot at the bar to keep the pints coming, or find a nook in the back or in the turquoise-painted side room to wile away the hours.

The name makes it sound like the driest place in Christendom, but the SAT, as it’s known by locals, is at the forefront of coolth. This giant building on Boulevard Saint-Laurent near Rue Sainte-Catherine is dedicated to electronic culture and entertainment, which means it hosts some of the best art events, dance parties and music performances in town. The top level of its four storeys includes the famous Satosphere, a dome structure that allows for mind-blowing, immersive 360-degree visual projections. Events include presentations and master classes in addition to dance nights by the likes of Borgore, Brodinski and MYD. Don’t forget to stop by the in-house restaurant, the FoodLab, which is constantly pushing the gastronomical envelope. Photo: Sébastien Roy

Castle Ho’s motto, the owner of lovely boutique 1861, is quite simple. “Women who love being women and dressing the part.” Such is the premise of her work, and it definitely transposes into her boutique. The store is decorated in what seems to be a vintage fashionista’s dream: airy space, high ceilings,Vvictorian inspiration, and soft eggshell, champagne and pastel pink hues everywhere. No boys allowed! The multi-brand store focuses on feminine, timeless pieces first and foremost, and incorporates up-and-coming designers into the mix, like UK-based Emily and Finn and Torontonians Pink Martini, along with Montrealers lines Coccolily and Arti Gogna. Don’t be fooled by the perfect, fairy-tale decor; the prices are more than fair and very few things are over $100 in the store. Guilt-free, stylish shopping? I like.

As if the Montreal restaurant scene weren’t exciting enough, 125 restaurants decided to come up with a special fall menu and draw people out of their houses in defiance of the weather. The concept behind Restaurant Week is fairly simple but oh-so-fantastic: 125 restaurants, one pre-set menu, and 3 price points ($19, $29, or $39 per head). This is a great way for Montrealers to experience restaurants that they wouldn’t be able to afford otherwise, and a way to discover new flavors. Make sure to look at the event’s website to consult the menus and pick your favorites. Reservations are strongly recommended. Also good to know: Many restaurants offer a special $19 menu for late-night orders, after 9:30pm. Bon appétit!

The Lantern Festival is without a doubt my favorite festival—ever, in the world. I’m not even sure why. It’s not star-studded. It’s not particularly big. It’s not in the warmest conditions. But damn it if it’s not the prettiest thing. The pathways of the Chinese Gardens are lit up at nightfall, illuminating hundreds of lanterns scattered around the pond. Some are animal-shaped, others are human-shaped, and together they create this amazing scenery that seems to have traveled halfway across the world. Which isn’t that far from the truth, technically. The lanterns are designed by Chinese artists in China and assembled in Montreal over the summer. If you are visiting Montreal in the fall, this event is a must-do. Until November 3rd at the Montreal Botanical Gardens.

The lush green forest, soaring trees and various lakes are reason enough to spend the day meandering along Stanley Park’s well kept, well posted trails. Turns out the city has given you another reason: the Stanley Park Environmental Art Project. Six artists have installed ecologically sensitive art projects throughout the park, and we were lucky enough to stumble upon this massive sphere of ancient wood sitting peacefully between two ends of its former self. “We wanted to construct something that works within the missing section to accentuate the mass, the length and the essence of the entire ancient tree.” Keep your eyes open though, as some of these installations are set back and off the trail. This particular piece was discovered on the Lovers Walk trail somewhere near the intersection of the Tatlow Walk trail.

Located in Leslieville in the East End, Swirl is in a small, converted apartment above a dog store in Leslieville. I love the decor here, from the tables made from doors or antique sewing machine bases to the artwork by local artists FAME. It’s a tiny place but it packs a punch. There’s no kitchen, so they have these amazing appetizers and desserts preserved in small Mason jars. Wine prices are affordable (and they have about three beers available now). On top of all of that, they host theme nights. For instance, you can watch Mad Men whilst sampling accurate cocktails from the era; board game nights; bubbly nights; and cinema Sundays. Suffice it to say, it’s one of my favorites. Warning: it’s tiny in here. Not meant for a big group, but perfect for a date.

Old Québec can be a little hard on the wallets of budget travelers. It’s not that the restaurants are overpriced, but they definitely cater to the tourists who fill its streets most days, especially in the warmer months, and who are happy to pay a little extra for the location and the opportunity to enjoy a long meal savoring some Québecois dishes. Le Chic Shack is a good option, however, if you are looking for a quick meal that’s a good value. The restaurant’s gourmet burgers include beef, bison, chicken, and veggie ones, all served on brioche rolls. There are also three different choices of poutine—classic cheese, braised beef, and wild mushroom. Try the restaurant’s rendition of a milkshake, or lait frappé, spiked with Baileys, Kahlua, or whiskey if you are in the mood for something stronger.

The Peak 2 Peak Gondola that connects Whistler and Blackcomb mountains was considered a glitzy and expensive PR move when it opened in 2007. Today the 1.9-mile span, the longest unsupported span in the world, ferries hikers, bikers, and of course, skiers and snowboarders to the slopes they seek. Best of all, the Peak 2 Peak provides access to alpine wilderness usually reserved exclusively for the athletically inclined. (This is the adventure I take my 83-year-old mother on in Whistler, and she is blown away, as is her 8-year-old grandson.) Flying through the air, 1,431 feet up with hardly a support tower in sight, is a thrill. The 11-minute ride soars above snow walls, wildflower meadows, Fitzsimmons Creek, and several trails down, around, and behind the Whistler peaks.