Search results for

Haleakala, a huge and dormant shield volcano, forms more than 75 percent of Maui’s landmass. As such, it pretty much demands you ascend its slopes and peer into its crater—the island’s very soul. Legend claims the demigod Maui snared the sun here, freeing it only after it swore to inch more slowly across the sky.

The 38-mile, two-and-a-half-hour drive up Haleakala climbs from sea level to 10,023 feet through several different ecological zones. One of the most popular ways to experience the volcano remains cycling down from the summit at sunrise. Do it yourself if you’re confident, or join a guided tour (Skyline Eco-Adventures offers one that includes a zip-line ride). Once you’ve mastered the motion—and the 21 switchbacks along the road—effortless downhill freewheeling rewards you with unsurpassed views of the island. If you’d rather savor the vistas from a lofty perch, drive to the top for the sunset or book an overnight at one of the park’s wilderness cabins, accessible only by hiking trail.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes. ~ Marcel Proust. For my inaugural highlight on AFAR, I am starting with my wife’s favorite quote, and a local sight in Chicago. Sometimes people feel they must jet off to some far off exotic place in order to ‘travel.’ However, if you gaze anew at your immediate surroundings with fresh eyes, you will discover an entire host of wonderful surprises. Here we have Cloud Gate, located down in Millennium Park, back before they buffed out the seams. The contrast between the organic form of ‘the bean’ and the structured grid lines, along with the warped fun house mirror quality of the city, makes this a truly unique destination.

Dating back to the 1780s and restored in the late 20th century at the behest of Prince Charles, the historical town of Al Bastakiya is a lovely historic exception to the modern glass and steel towers that dominate Dubai’s skyline. Originally named after Bastak, the Iranian city from which Persians migrated to Dubai, it has recently been renamed the Al Fahidi Cultural and Historical District. Clean, sandy beiges characterize the wind-tower architecture that houses several galleries, cafés, and museums. Tourists, locals, and many artists keep the old town hip and upbeat, while the wind towers mean the area is a couple of degrees cooler than the rest of the city. For history, architecture, and art lovers, a daytime visit to this district is a must.

This refined 28-acre resort set in the rolling hills between downtown Sonoma and downtown Napa makes guests feel relaxed the moment they check in. The vistas are unobstructed from the resort’s pool areas, and many of the property’s 94 stand-alone cottages with private balconies and six private homes offer views of the open space, too. By day, lawn games are usually underway on the grassy expanse called the Town Square, while in the evenings, a pavilion provides an unparalleled backdrop for stargazing. This is a hotel that values fresh air, as evidenced by the walls in the common areas, which retract to bring the outdoors in. There are other reasons to fall in love with Carneros—namely, the on-site restaurants. The casual Boon Fly Café is famous for breakfasts, with spicy bacon Bloody Mary drinks and tiny made-to-order doughnuts. FARM, on the other hand, is more formal, with menu items such as braised oxtail terrine and smoked Sonoma duck breast. While the hotel offers in-room massages, it will also reopen its spa after a full-scale renovation later in 2018.

Just walk into Barthélémy and breathe the air. The cheese smells so different from cheese in the United States—that’s how you’ll know you’re in Paris. I love this store. Be sure to ask for tastes; the service is as good as the selection.

For ages, Manhattan’s Midtown East was a wasteland as far as great coffee was concerned, with options limited to drips from delis, Starbucks, or Dunkin’ Donuts. Then Pennylane opened on an unassuming side street about a block from the United Nations, and the upscale coffee shop became a hotspot for diplomats and UN employees, upping the ante for coffee in this neighborhood. You won’t see the cafe’s name outside; only a sign with philosophical sayings that change daily will signal you to the artfully pulled espresso drinks waiting inside. A limited selection of Bien Cuit pastries is available, as are only a few seats and decent WiFi.

If you enjoy a touch of elegance, plus imaginative architecture, and if F1 racing gets your heart going, then a few nights at the Yas Viceroy hotel in Abu Dhabi will be on your destination list. The only hotel built within an F1 track, here guests experience racing firsthand, as the hotel actually sits astride part of the track. Adventurous drivers can choose to take a ride —or even drive the track in their choice of several high-end cars. Design does not stop at the curvy facade of this fascinating hotel. Rooms capture the outside appeal in neutral tones and complementary shapes and textures.

Considered Singapore’s national dish, Hainanese chicken rice is a beloved staple for many. It’s made up of a fragrant bowl of chicken broth, a pile of fluffy rice, and tender poached chicken (skin on), as well as condiments like ginger paste, dark soy sauce, and chili sauce—and sometimes a side of gai lan (a leafy Chinese vegetable). Enjoy the traditional meal in homey surroundings at Wee Nam Kee, a casual and inexpensive restaurant that started out many years ago as a humble food stall. Though the chicken rice is the star, other favorites include cereal prawns, fish-head curry, salted-egg pork ribs, and sambal kangkong (greens).

Set up as a nonprofit venture in 1981, the Alele Museum is dedicated to preserving the folk arts, traditional skills, historic accounts and oral traditions of the indigenous population of the Marshall Islands. The permanent exhibition features historical photos, handicrafts, artwork and tools. A small shop stocks gifts, maps and books about the islands. Upstairs is the bright, cheerful library, which features a children’s reading room and a Pacific section.

Starting out as one of the United Arab Emirates’ first food trucks, Meylas is no longer so much about grabbing a quick bite of local culture on the go, as it is about experiencing the traditional flavours in a small cafe decorated like a “canteen” from a bygone era. You will feel like you’re at the start of the modern development in the UAE. Dallah (traditional coffee pots), henna, shopping bags, postcards, and children’s games are on display and for sale if you choose to take a bit of that culture home with you.


Of course, the food and hospitality is at the center of attention. Locally sourced ingredients contribute to chbaab, a pancake served with date syrup and salonat badu, the traditional bedouin stew made with chicken or lamb. At the end of the meal, you’ll find several sweets like khabees that are spiced with cardamom and saffron or legeimat, which reminds me of a donut hole sweetened with dates syrup and topped with sesame seeds. Coffees and teas are prepared the way they used to be and should not be passed up at the end of the meal while you mull over the days events. I recommend ordering a smattering of anything that looks interesting off the menu to share.

Al Mahara, whose name means “the oyster shell,” has long been one of the most popular restaurants in Dubai’s renowned Burj Al Arab, the iconic hotel shaped like a sail out in the gulf waters. You reach the restaurant, on the hotel’s ground floor, by walking through a tunnel to emerge into a space with floor-to-ceiling glass walls. You’ll feel as if you’re in an aquarium, because those walls enclose countless colorful and exotic fish of all species. A new restaurant opens in this space in October 2016, and while the chef and even name will change—Britain’s Nathan Outlaw is behind the new seafood menu at the restaurant which will soon be known as Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara—the aquarium will remain. After your meal, be sure to head up to the Skyview Bar on the 27th floor for jaw-dropping views of the gulf and the city.

It may be only 22 miles west of San Juan, but Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve feels a world away. The resort has a spectacular location on a three-mile stretch of beach on Puerto Rico’s north shore, where Clara Livingston once ran a sugar plantation—and Amelia Earhart visited before departing for her fateful world tour. In 1958, Livingston sold the property to Laurance S. Rockefeller, who turned it into the first of his legendary Rock Resorts. Known for his green streak, he designed the hotel to respect the local beauty, mandating that buildings could not be taller than the surrounding palm trees.

The Ritz-Carlton—which reopened in October 2018 after a meticulous restoration following Hurricane Maria—pays homage to that original vision. Here, every room is beachfront, with floor-to-ceiling sliding doors that disappear into ocean views, plus deep soaking tubs, outdoor showers shaded by gardens, and either spacious balconies or private plunge pools. As part of the property’s renovation, rooms were refreshed with a color palette that amplifies the natural beauty just beyond the doors. Additionally, the grounds showcase 3,000 new plant species, the spa is offering new locally inspired treatments and cuisine, Encanto Beach Club Bar & Grill features a refreshed dinner menu, and the Positivo Sandbar debuted an omakase and ceviche bar directly on the sand. There’s even an entirely reimagined signature restaurant, Coa, which serves farm-to-table fare cooked on the grill. Still standing strong on the verdant, 1,400-acre grounds are the five 18-hole championship golf courses. The biggest challenge is pulling yourself away from the luxury of the resort to tee up a shot.

See proof that the idea behind national parks—preserving spectacular landscapes—has been successful at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. In 1871, William Henry Jackson took more than 100 photos with an 8x10 plate camera. (His photos were a large part of why Yellowstone was, in 1872, named the world’s first national park.) Jackson took several shots of various places in the 24-mile long Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, including of the Upper and Lower Falls. In 2017, Jackson-based photojournalist Bradly J. Boner published the book, Yellowstone National Park: Through the Lens of Time, in which he rephotographed all but one of Jackson’s images. The book shows Boner’s modern-day photos side-by-side with Jackson’s. It turns out the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is very little changed.

Scaling Mount Kenya, the country’s highest and the continent’s second-highest mountain, is on the bucket list of many adventurers. The jagged summit peaks, sharp cliffs, and snowcapped crags can be seen on the northern road from Nairobi when the mountain is not shrouded in clouds. Hiking this monster usually takes from three to seven days, depending on fitness levels. Of the different possible routes up, the popular Chogoria route passes through lush green pastures and by icy blue lakes, crossing dusty martian landscapes along the way. The highest point hikers can reach without specialized climbing equipment is Lenana, more than 16,000 feet above sea level.

The corniche: A waterfront promenade and probably the most attractive 5 miles in Doha. This crescent-shaped boardwalk runs along the Doha Bay allowing unobstructed views of the Persian Gulf on one side and the bustling business district on the other. With shaded paths, work-out stations, and Doha’s uber modern towers overlooking the Bay and the Gulf, the Corniche is one of Doha’s highlights. At night, the dhows are lit and ready to take strollers around the bay on a short cruise.