Search results for

L’AND Vineyards is a “Wine Resort” that offers a unique rural experience in an exclusive and contemporary ambiance. It is located in the heart of the Alentejo and extends around a central valley of vineyards, olive groves and a lake communicating with the accommodation units that born from the landscape, sorted in small clusters, recovering the typology of the traditional properties (“montes”) of Alentejo. By electing the wine as anchor of its inspiration, L’AND Vineyards Resort is a 5 star holiday village. L’And restaurant seeks to affirm the new Portuguese gastronomic culture, reflecting the history and culture of Portugal and integrating the experiences and ingredients that came from the discoveries in the East. The cuisine of Chef Michael Laffan, awarded a Michelin star in 2013, creates the restaurant menu inspired by the natural environment that surrounds the hotel, presenting dishes with influences from Alentejo in a contemporary interpretation, taking visitors on a gastronomic journey.

Decorated by Luís Pinto Coelho, who also decorated “A Paródia” and “Pavilhão Chinês,” this historic bar is 40 years old. With an art nouveau décor, the space is very cozy. A piano serves as a table, and shelves are full of sculptures and busts. Journalists and people with connections to politics used to frequent this place, but that was some years ago. Nowadays, it’s a good choice for a conversation with friends, without the chaos of bigger bars like the ones in Bairro Alto.

The city’s iconic wood-paneled Tram 28 rambles along a 4.3-mile route from Campo de Ourique to Praça Martim Moniz, navigating tight turns and steep inclines as it passes some of Lisbon’s most endearing attractions. Originally commissioned in the 1930s, these classic Remodelado trams were in fact enlisted for their ability to handle Lisbon’s hilly terrain. They can get painfully crowded—wait times can be outrageous in the high season—so catch an early ride (5:40 a.m. most weekdays, or 6:45 a.m. on Sundays) for unobstructed views of hilltop neighborhoods like Graça and the Alfama.

Nazare, a colorful fishing village, is about 1 hour north of Fatima in Portugal. It is famous for its fishing boats and traditional clothing of its men and women. The boats are gaily painted with upturned prows as they have been since the days of the Phoenicians. The men wear plaid shirts and long stocking caps in which they keep their cigarettes. The women wear the many colored skirts, shirts, vest, and 7 petticoats. The ladies sit outside their homes and entice you to rent their rooms, or they sit under umbrellas on the beach and chat as their salted fish stretched on wooden racks, dry in the sun. Some fishermen sit on the beach and mend their nets, others are out on the sea fishing. Before 1986, the fishing boats were hauled up on the beach by oxen. Today there is a large marina around the corner so you won’t get to see this ancient ritual. But Nazare is still old Portugal. It is charming . The beach and water are very clean and the waves can be a challenge. Surfers love this area with its huge waves. In January, 2013, a Hawaiian surfer rode a 100' wave off the coast of Nazare and broke a record. There are many shops and cafes in the town. Pick up a straw hat or a souvenir doll with her seven petticoats. Enjoy lunch at one of the great seafood restaurants. The choices are consistently fresh and well-prepared. Nazare is a must see for anyone traveling in Portugal. You can take a tour or drive if you have a car. However you get there, you will have a great time.

I often go to Chiado for dinner, a drink, or a visit to Bertrand bookshop, and every time I pass the door of Paris em Lisboa I breathe deeply—so that I feel the wonderful smell that comes from this store. Founded in 1888, it was chosen by Queen Amélia to be the official supplier to the royal palace. In the 1930s, due to customers’ changing habits, it created a section for household items. Nowadays it sells bed, bath, kitchen and table linens, and other accessories.

The Moorish Castle is strategically located on one of the top hills of Sintra to defend both the local territory and the maritime access to the city of Lisbon. The castle was built around the 10th century by the Muslim populations that occupied the Iberian peninsula. The castle acted as a control tower for the Atlantic coast and the land to the north, mostly serving as an outpost for the city of Lisbon. The castle’s Muslim rule ended in 1147 when King Afonso Henrique conquered Lisbon. In 1995, UNESCO listed Sintra hills as a Cultural Landscape, World Heritage, including the Moorish Castle. Highly recommended to climb and walk along the walls of the castle, carved out of the rock, to have a panoramic view over Sintra and its castles and palaces.

One of Portugal’s oldest cosmetics companies, Claus Porto cemented a major comeback after Lisbon’s coolest store, A Vida Portuguesa, began carrying its products. In 2016, the company opened its own boutique in the trendy Chiado district, offering even more access to its eye-catching inventory. Packaged in art deco– and Belle Époque–style cases, the signature products look supremely cool as bed-and-bath decor. Of course, you could also buy the soaps, lotions, and shave creams for actual use. As an extra incentive, on Saturdays, men who spend more than €50 (around $60) receive an old-school hot shave in the barbershop at the store.

Arrifana beach is located on the western coast of Algarve, Portugal. Since it faces the Atlantic and has many huge bouilders that surround it, the surf can be quite wild at times. While it can be wild, Arrifana is also serene.The beauty stops many tourists at the top of the hill before their march down to the sand. You park at the top of the road and walk down. The descent is not easy. The way is steep and paved with the slippery little stones found all over Portugal. The path zigs and zags. You are rewarded when you finally reach the sand. The clear, clean waters shimmer under the brilliant sky.You will see swimmers in the more shallow waters and then there are the surfers! This is a very popular surfers’ beach. The waves are very powerful at Arrifana and surfers love that. After the beach ( or if you are adventurous enough to climb back up and then return), you can climb up to the restaurant for lunch. I enjoyed some local Portuguese dishes and a cold drink. Before I drove away, I stood at the railing atop the roadway and drank in the beauty and tranquility of Arrifana Beach. I could go back there next time I travel to the Algarve. There is a hostel in town during the season if you care to stay in Arrifana.

In the center of the Founder’s Chapel of the Batalha monastery of Santa Maria da Vitoria, you will find the tombs of King John I and his wife Queen Philippa of Lancaster. Their sons’ tombs are also there.

One of their sons was Prince Henry the Navigator. Henry was born in Oporto in 1394 and I visited his birthplace while in that grand city which is Portugal’s second largest.


Henry was always interested in the sea and navigation. His father appointed him governor of the province of the Algarve and he founded a school of navigation and an observatory in Sagres. Sagres is located at the south western tip of the Algarve. It is a wild and beautiful rocky outcrop. There are remains of Henry’s school there.

I stood on the grounds as the wind whipped the area on a sunny day. You could almost see the caravels coming into the near-by ports their sails snapping in the wind.

The maritime trade started by Prince Henry the Navigator enabled Portugal to become a wealthy world power (14th to 16th centuries). The ship he designed called the caravel was lighter and faster than vessels of the time. Because of Henry’s work, other navigators explored the seas and discovered many new sea routes.

The Prince died in 1460 and left a very impressive legacy. Henry’s tomb is a large marble structure and is marked. I went up to the tomb that is beautifully preserved in Batalha’s chapel.

There is a lot of history in that chapel. When in the monastery, don’t miss the Founder’s Chapel.

This is the place to visit if you are looking for a multicultural neighborhood that is getting better and safer every day that passes. Near Mouraria, once a degraded neighborhood, you will find Martim Moniz’s Square—full of life, with many kiosks with esplanades, serving food and drinks from all over the world. Weekends feature the Fusion Market, with DJs, concerts, workshops, and debates. Even the city’s mayor changed his office to this area, to show that is a good neighborhood. From the square, you can see São Jorge’s Castle, up there on the hill, protecting us from evildoers.

A typical restaurant at a typical neighborhood: cheap, good, homemade food and a local environment. The students gather here when they want to join for a class dinner. The name Tollan comes from an English container ship that sank in the river. This was back in the 1980s, and it stayed there for almost four years, with the hull upwards.

Aldeia da Pedralva is more than just a hotel. It’s an actual village hidden away among the wildflowers and beaches of Portugal’s Vicentina Coast. The owner Antonio Ferreira was looking for a career change and when he stumbled upon Pedralva village (at the time no more than a pizza place and abandoned, dilapidated houses) he began to buy them up and rebuild them. It took Ferreira and his wife Filipa more than two years to find the original owners and get permission to buy their homes. Today, Ferreira has turned a former ghost town into a destination eco hotel with a restaurant and grocery shop stocked with produce from the on-site vegetable garden. Each of the 31 restored homes has a rustic charm and was furnished by a designer friend of Ferreira. The best part of staying at Aldeia da Pedralva is that you feel like part of a community. Ferreira’s Newfoundland dog Urso often greets guests. Dinner often features fresh seafood caught that day and plenty of Portuguese wine. A stay here is a lesson in how satisfying simplicity can be.

As we arrived in Arraiolos, in the Alentejo area of Portugal, we saw the 14th century castle and the 16th century church resting majestically up on the hill overlooking the town. Arraiolos is known worldwide for its gorgeous woolen carpets which are made in Moorish cross stitch designs. This industry has flourished in the town since the 17th century. We wandered through town as happy tourists investigating this historic site. We watched as the women wove their beautiful carpet designs and chatted with each other. We sat in the town square and sipped a cool drink and observed residents come and go. The restaurants were on every corner so dinner was no problem. This tiny town was a delight with its carpet factories, many shops, restaurants, churches and museums. We investigated each attraction. The buildings were painted white stucco with bright blue trim and Arraiolos resembled a picture book village. Our stay at the Pousada da Nossa Senhora Assuncao was a memorable experience. This stunning 16th century pousada was formerly a convent. It afforded all of the modern conveniences while retaining the serenity and beauty of 16th century Portuguese architecture. Our trip to Arraiolos was another fulfilling travel experience. There was so much to see and to learn about Portuguese history and architecture in this little gem of a town.

Are you looking for a funny, original, and practical gift? In this shop you will find it. Pillow cases with phrases like “I love you too” or with swallows or frogs (that might turn into a prince). If you take your lunch to work, check out the lunch set (bag, box, and pot). And for the kitchen, there are many colorful accessories. Some time ago, I bought a scratch map, where you can scratch the countries you’ve visited. The shop also had another map where you color the countries visited till you have the all world in color. And you can take it with you, because it comes in a tube.

To open this all-organic small-plates newcomer near Sé Cathedral, Chef António Galapito imported a caravan of culinary wizardry from the U.K.'s Taberna do Mercado (the London restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Nuno Mendes), including four members of the kitchen staff. The daily menu is an imaginative—challenging, at times—procession of flavor and fun. Standouts might include a charred purple broccoli with buckwheat in a tangy red pepper coulis; a black pork tenderloin with quinces and chocolate peppers; or a portobello mushroom ice cream with pearl barley, sea lettuce flakes, and pork-fat salted caramel (you read that right). Whatever’s on, it will surprise and dazzle even the most blasé of foodies while recalibrating your idea of what Portuguese cuisine is and can be.