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An old shoemaker’s workshop hidden above a tiny café has been transformed into what Copenhageners call the world’s smallest hotel—a 12-square-meter room outfitted in vintage-inspired decor and the highest quality gadgets. It feels like a hideaway from reality, on the border of two of Copenhagen’s coolest, undiscovered-by-tourists neighborhoods. With a Royal Eden bed, hidden flat-screen TV, iPhone with stereo dock, and free Wi-Fi, Central Hotel & Café has thought of every requisite modern convenience. The 1950s-style decor even feels straight out of a movie—not surprising, actually, since one of the owners previously worked as a set designer.

Downstairs, the café feels like your own, even if just for a day, with its sounds and smells wafting up through the windows and vents. Open the flower-framed window to get a better smell, and arrange to have your coffee delivered to your door, or simply head downstairs to order in the café.

Don’t be confused by the name: This isn’t street food so much as dockside warehouse food. Walk over Inderhavnsbroen, one of the city’s newer bridges (opened in 2016), and you’ll cross from the heart of Copenhagen to a former industrial area that is now a foodie paradise. It is to the city what Borough Market is to London—a hugely popular attraction where people flock to eat great food off paper plates. Chinese, Korean, Italian, Moroccan . . . It’s all here and so inviting that it’s hard to know where to start. The only note of caution: Copenhagen Street Food is so popular that the weekend crowds can be intimidating.

Housed next to Tivoli Gardens, in a historic building that once served as the Royal Danish Conservatory of Music, Nobis Hotel is a showcase for Copenhagen’s iconic mix of Old World elegance and modern design. The 77-room boutique property maintains many of its original details, but with a contemporary twist—an intricate vertical lighting installation updates the marble-and-wood staircase, while midcentury furnishings by homegrown brands like Carl Hansen & Son offset classical wall and ceiling moldings. The aesthetic inspiration continues in the lounge (where low-slung leather sofas provide the perfect backdrop for Instagram-fueled envy) and not least in Restaurant Niels (where continental standbys are served in a serene space outfitted with blond wood and industrial lighting).

Noma, consistently ranked as one of the world’s best restaurants, closed in 2016, but its impact on dining in Copenhagen has been profound. Many chefs who worked there have since launched their own restaurants, including two who opened Bror. It’s a small space with big ambitions—expect astonishing food made from the best local produce. The five-course menu costs 625 kroner ($100), with wine pairings an additional 450 kroner ($72). There are also some memorable snacks. Don’t miss the bull testicles with tartar sauce or the cod head with cabbage wrap.

If you’re visiting Copenhagen, don’t miss a visit to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It’s an easy 1/2 hour train ride from the city followed by about a 10 minute walk. Everything about our visit was excellent but a highlight is spending time in the sculpture garden which overlooks the Sound (and you can see the coast of Sweden in the distance). This is a great outing with kids. The children’s wing does a fantastic job of creating interesting ways for the kids to plug into modern art and the museum. On our visit there was a sculpture garden detective kit where kids had to seek out certain sculptures and examine different aspects and make some discoveries. Our kids loved it and it kept them engaged -- and it allowed me to leave them with my husband while I viewed the galleries in peace. There is also a great winding slide near the children’s wing that they spent a lot of time on. At the end of the day we got a bite to eat and and a glass of wine (for the adults) on the terrace overlooking the Calder sculpture garden and the Sound. Don’t miss the gift shop with lots of great modern design items to tempt you.

You can see the black and gold spiral steeple of the Church of our Saviour, or Vor Frelsers Kirke, all over Copenhagen. It’s not until you are standing beneath it you realize that golden spiral is actually a staircase—on the outside. If you are among the brave, you can climb the stairs all the way to the top of the steeple, for a view over the lively Christianshavn neighbourhood of Copenhagen. If (like me) you are afraid of heights, you can admire the church from below and muster your courage... for next time.

Straight from the Pony’s mouth: PONY is Kadeau’s cheeky ”little brother” residing in the small, homely premises of Vesterbrogade 135, where Kadeau Copenhagen used to be. The idea behind PONY is a more simple approach to the good dining experience, revolving around a small selection of à la carte dishes and a daily four course menu known as the “Pony Kick”. The food is based on seasonal and local produce and is in that sense new Nordic, as it is at Kadeau. But it is also bistro in style, and at PONY we proudly cook using produce from both Bornholm and the rest of our delicious Danish backyard.

A five-star property in an old transformer station, Hotel Herman K brings industrial-chic style to the heart of Copenhagen. Much of the building’s raw, unpolished architecture has been preserved, lending the hotel an edgy vibe. A façade of dark bronze slats and large glass doors leads to the lobby, where a custom-designed artwork by Pio Diaz hangs from 40-foot ceilings. Down moody, dimly lit hallways, each of the 31 rooms and suites hides behind a black curtain, which is pulled aside for the duration of your stay. Inside, sleek furniture, soft carpets, and concrete walls contrast with white marble bathrooms, creating an altogether futuristic feeling. In fact, guests can even control the lights and sound from bed via panels in the headboard or steam their home media directly to the TV and speakers. If you need a break from all the technology, many rooms also include private balconies or terraces.

Herman K comes courtesy of Brøchner Hotels (Denmark’s leading boutique hotel chain) and features many of the company’s signature amenities, including a healthy, organic breakfast and a “night cap hour” with complimentary drinks. Should guests want something more substantial, Herman K is also home to Roxie, a three-story restaurant from the team behind two-Michelin-starred Nordic restaurant Kadeau.

A one-man operation, this place is a fantastic option for anyone looking for a quality burger at a more than reasonable price. The shop itself is small and can easily be mistaken for your usual takeaway or kebab shop, but it isn’t. The owner, who regulars call “Joe” is welcoming, friendly, and truly cares about his food and your visit. The food is good across the board, but he specializes in burgers. They’re all good - beef, chicken, and even salmon - but his special “Banana Joe Burger” with an egg on top is the icing on the cake. Don’t be afraid to try the salmon burger. While Copenhagen is fairly bad about over-cooking their salmon in general, Joe always hits it just right and uses real slices of fresh salmon for the burger. It is delicious...and I say that as someone who doesn’t normally like salmon. Stay in, or take away, but be forewarned there are only 4 seats inside, and a handful of tables outside during summer months.

Located next to the old offices of the Danish National Public Radio and Broadcasting, Restaurant Radio takes on a very locavore approach and incorporates many ideals from Claus Meyer’s New Nordic Food Movement (not surprisingly, Meyer is a co-founder of Restaurant Radio). You’ll enjoy a set menu food and wine pairing, with dishes playing with unique flavor combinations and textures for a meal that is both delicious and entertaining. Bonus: The wait staff, chefs, and sommeliers are all extremely attractive.

Frederiksholms Canal is a small canal that is connected to Copenhagen Harbor and which surrounds and creates the small island of Slotsholmen. Slotsholmen is significant because it serves as home to Christiansborg Palace, the seat of the Danish Parliament, as well as museums, and the Royal Danish Library. More than just a glorified moat, the canal has a number of historical boats moored along its banks and serves as a lovely spot to enjoy the Danish weather. For a quirky surprise look into the canal’s depths just off of Højbro bridge for an other-worldly piece of submerged art.

While the little mermaid is good for what she is, just about everyone who sees her finds her...well...small. It shouldn’t be a surprise for something that is quite literally called the LITTLE mermaid, but somehow she often still disappoints. What makes the trip out to see her well worthwhile, however, is Kastellet, which is located immediately behind her. This star fortress dates back to the 1600s, still serves as an active military complex, and is one of the best preserved star fortresses left in Europe. No matter what time of year it is, a walk along the fortress’s ramparts is well worth it. The views over the canals are gorgeous, and there are a number of old canons left lying about for photos. You’ll also find one of Copenhagen‘s only remaining windmills. Don’t just explore the ramparts, also head down and look at the historic buildings that fill the interior of the fortress. With their brightly colored paint, tiny windows, and age-weary walls, they’re perfect for a photo.

Situated just outside of Copenhagen, the Danish Open Air Museum is a fantastic place that allows you to see and experience Danish history. The museum features historic buildings, traditional breeds of Danish livestock, and stunning gardens. Buildings within the museum cover the time period 1650-1940 with a mixture of farm houses, mills, and common buildings available for you to visit.

A fairy-tale town deserves a magical funfair. Tivoli Gardens is one of the country’s most popular attractions, drawing more than four million visitors a year (in a country with a population of around 5.5 million). Youngsters will enjoy the rides, while their parents will appreciate the nostalgic charm and the wide range of dining options, from hot dogs and churros to “New Nordic” gastronomy.

In 1971, squatters moved into the barracks on an abandoned military base and established Freetown Christiania, an autonomous district in the middle of the city. Later, many dwellers built their own homes on the 86-acre property. Although the Danish Supreme Court ruled this year that the state owns the land, the area’s nearly 1,000 residents have yet to be evicted. Today, visitors can bike along tree-lined paths and check out the handmade structures before they disappear. christiania.org. This appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.