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The minute you walk into the Hotel St-Martin Montreal, you’ll know it’s something special. You’ll notice the warm welcome, the “at-your-service” attitude, and the gorgeous decor. The hotel, despite a successful recent history, began controversially. It’s built where a legendary smoked-meat restaurant once stood. Mind you, the restaurant had been closed for several months before it was destroyed and upgraded into a 4-star hotel, but many locals held on to the thought that it was intrinsic to the Montreal identity and shouldn’t have been replaced, even though the building was rapidly decaying. To those folks I would say: Spend a night at the St-Martin, and see for yourself. As a Montrealer, I say that it was good for the city. The hotel’s restaurant, L’Aromate, can get quite busy at lunch and during happy hour, which proves the menu is as delightful as the ambience. And the brunches are particularly tasty.

Yes, there is Old Montreal and the shops of rue Sainte-Catherine. But Montreal is much more, especially in the Plateau Mont-Royal neighborhood, a place famous for its alternative atmosphere. Here you find tons of street art, each piece more delightful than the next. Most murals aren’t spontaneous works by local artists but are part of the many street art festivals taking place on Boulevard Saint-Laurent throughout the year, like MuRAL. Artists come from all over the world to paint, lending an international vibe to the city but also some amazing pieces. This here is one of my favorites, located on the corner of Saint-Laurent and Des Pins streets.

There is perhaps some irony that one of the most distinctive contemporary buildings in the historic heart of Montréal is a showcase for some of the city’s oldest artifacts. The modern structure that houses this archaeology and history museum opened in 1992, to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the establishment of Montréal. The highlight is its crypt, where you can wander through the digs of the city’s 18th-century market. A new pavilion, “Where Montréal Began,” opened in 2017 on the occasion of the city’s 375th anniversary. Its display of artifacts emphasizes the spiritual traditions of both the French settlers and Québec’s Algonquin, Huron, and Iroquois peoples. Temporary exhibitions on subjects like hockey and the archives of Bell Telephone help bridge the gap between Montréal’s early history and the present day.

If mountain biking sounds a bit too extreme take to the trails on a monster scooter. The scooter version of a Big Wheels, it has extra large tires that provides stability but still allows you to pick up speed and brake like a mountain bike. From Saas-Grund, we took the gondola up to Hahsaas mountain station, which overlooks the Saas Valley. A nearly four-mile trail leads back down to the village (In the winter you can rent rodels, or sleds, and sleigh down). The views can be very distracting but we had to keep our eyes on the trail so we didn’t collide with any mountain goats.

Donosti Librería is the bookstore that movies are made of. In the family for 40 years, the shop’s beautiful art nouveau façade hides a calming interior. Walls are stacked with books, handpicked by the owners, and the overall atmosphere is the perfect blend of peaceful and provocative.

What do Al Capone and Bruce Willis have in common? They both did time here at Eastern State Penitentiary. (OK, Willis wasn’t an inmate, but he did shoot the film 12 Monkeys here.) The facility’s first inmate was brought through these doors in 1829, and the prison was in use until 1971. After closing, it became a target for vandals and housed a sizable colony of stray cats. Real estate developers proposed repurposing it as condominiums (high-security, of course), but preservationists won out. They raised funds to stabilize the crumbling interior and remove trees that were growing inside some cells. Wander through its stark interior and learn about the fascinating history of this unique site and its previous tenants, including Capone. Don’t miss the special art installations that are on display here all year round.

Opened in 2006, the Four Seasons Centre for Performing Arts right in the crux of downtown at Queen and University is a gorgeous forum for performances from the National Ballet of Canada and the Canadian Opera Company (COC). For those looking for a frugal experience, the COC holds free concerts most Tuesdays and Thursdays at noon, and some Wednesdays at noon or 5:30 p.m. in the Richard Bradshaw Amphitheatre. Though the National Ballet’s most famous performance is The Nutcracker, performed, of course, during the holiday season, the company also performs other family-pleasing ballets including Sleeping Beauty and Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland from time to time.

A true neighbourhood institution, this dépanneur – Quebec’s answer to the corner store – has such a loyal following that within months they had successfully boycotted a 7/11 type of chain store that opened up across from it. The reason for the following, other than the staff’s boundless charm, is because you’ll find anything you could ever dream of needing in a pinch in this store, and much more: they make sandwiches and take-away meals here that will put your momma’s packed lunches to shame.

Obladee is the only wine bar in downtown Halifax. The bar has a casual atmosphere with an ever changing wine menu and a few other select drinks like beer and cider if that is what you would prefer. They feature wine “flights” that pair three wines together for a reasonable price, as well as cheese and charcuterie that is locally sourced.

Marriott property, The Jay Hotel, was the most anticipated addition to the city’s hotel scene in 2023, transforming the brutalist building that formerly housed Le Méridien into a cozy and quiet retreat. Each of the 360 rooms and suites have warm, textured, and minimalist decor that evokes calm and serenity. Adding to the oasis vibes, are some seriously comfortable beds, blackout curtains, and mini bars stocked with local goodies, such as St. George in. If you can, book a room with a balcony (a rarity among the city’s hotels), and enjoy the impressive views of the Bay Bridge and nearby Transamerica Tower.

“When bands are in town, I send them to the instrument shop ST Music, which is a five-minute walk away from the calligraphy tool shop, Geng Yen Jai. They sell an instrument called the pipa, which is like a Chinese guitar, plus Chinese flutes and very tiny Chinese hand cymbals.” —KK Yeh

This appeared in the November/December 2017 issue.

While there are plenty of in-water activities around St. Thomas, one of the best is at the Coral World Underwater Observatory. At this interactive park, which is great for families, visitors can see marine life rescue efforts, play with crustaceans or hang out by the beach. They can also swim with the star residents of the observatory, the sea lions. Rescued several years ago from certain death, today the sea lions are crowd favorites. In a special interactive session you can learn more about the ongoing research and interact with them in a special pool. This activity is safe for the sea lions and the mental stimulation is an important part of their daily schedule.

Architect Moshe Safdie’s Habitat 67 apartment complex was built for Expo 67, a key moment in Montreal‘s emergence as one of the world’s cultural capitals. While many buildings from the late 60s haven’t fared well with time, Habitat 67 still achieves Safdie’s goal: demonstrating that contemporary housing projects can be original and appealing works that create a sense of community among their residents. For a public who had come to associate housing projects with off-putting towers set in windswept plazas, Habitat 67 was a revelation with its 354 prefabricated concrete blocks stacked to construct 146 units. Apartments here continue to be coveted and command a premium price. Habitat 67 is a little out of the way from most of the other sites you’ll likely visit, on a peninsula facing Old Montreal. Take a cab to get there and note that the complex is private property—you’ll be turned away by security if you try to enter but you can admire this modernist vision from the street.

The St. George, opened in 2007, was recently purchased and renovated by Indigo, an international luxury hotel chain. The new owners have taken care to preserve the unique elements of the original structure, including an exterior of roughly hewn travertine. These white limestone blocks were laid in the 16^th century by Bramante; Pope Julius II commissioned the architect to build the Palace of Justice on his newly laid Via Giulia. Bramante never completed the project, but part of the building has been adapted into the current structure. Inside, the surfaces are smooth-polished limestone punctuated with contemporary art. Throughout, the decor blends modern design with classic details, often in the form of art pieces inspired by the very Renaissance masters who once strolled the cobblestones outside, so many centuries ago.

After a day traversing the city, unwind Roman-style, in the St. George’s subterranean spa. Never mind that they call the spa facilities a Turkish bath; the hot and cold bathing ritual was perfected by the ancient Romans not far from the hotel itself. After indulging in spa treatments, head to the rooftop bar for drinks and views of the river to Trastevere.

If you’re hoping to see all of Laguna in a short amount of time, hop on the free trolley, which runs in five neighborhoods during the week and along the Coast Highway on weekends. Hours vary by day and season, but are long enough to make the trolley a fun, convenient way to get around town. For special occasions from September through mid-June, you can even charter a trolley for a tour or a memorable ride to your event.