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The St. George, opened in 2007, was recently purchased and renovated by Indigo, an international luxury hotel chain. The new owners have taken care to preserve the unique elements of the original structure, including an exterior of roughly hewn travertine. These white limestone blocks were laid in the 16^th century by Bramante; Pope Julius II commissioned the architect to build the Palace of Justice on his newly laid Via Giulia. Bramante never completed the project, but part of the building has been adapted into the current structure. Inside, the surfaces are smooth-polished limestone punctuated with contemporary art. Throughout, the decor blends modern design with classic details, often in the form of art pieces inspired by the very Renaissance masters who once strolled the cobblestones outside, so many centuries ago.

After a day traversing the city, unwind Roman-style, in the St. George’s subterranean spa. Never mind that they call the spa facilities a Turkish bath; the hot and cold bathing ritual was perfected by the ancient Romans not far from the hotel itself. After indulging in spa treatments, head to the rooftop bar for drinks and views of the river to Trastevere.

Upon first entering the famed blue doors of Per Se, located inside the Time Warner Center overlooking Central Park, the dining room has the air of a wake, filled stiff collars and hushed tones. But no matter the attitude, the fact is that everyone in the dining room waited at least a month for this moment. At Per Se, you can only make a reservation one month in advance (maximum), and, if you procrastinate a day or two (say 28 or days or less before your desired date) you’ve likely missed your chance. (Do take note that you cannot cancel a reservation within seven days without being charged $175 per seat reserved.) This is an experience that will last up to four hours, where you are served from five to nine courses (depending on the menu you select), with many surprises in between, including personalized menus with your name and event (if you’re celebrating anything) on each. Now, if you’re still interested and not frightened away by the potential cost, then you’re in for an amazing afternoon or evening of small plates with the most amazing tastes you’ll ever come across. Do not be deterred by the portion sizes as you will most certainly leave full. It might even be best if you arrive on the borderline of famished, as it is a crime to leave anything behind.

Why we love it: A design-forward property that captures the Detroit zeitgeist

The Highlights:
- Spacious rooms stocked with Shinola products for sale
- A lobby lounge that attracts a who’s who of downtown
- Thoughtful design from local partners

The Review:
From Detroit-based companies Shinola and Bedrock comes this boutique stay in downtown’s burgeoning shopping district. By combining Shinola’s signature craftsmanship with Bedrock’s knack for urban revitalization, the two companies have created a hub for a rapidly changing city, with the lobby lounge serving as a de facto clubhouse for Detroit’s cool kids. Both in the lobby and throughout the hotel, guests will find a pleasingly eclectic art collection (be sure to check out the Nick Cave piece and the wall panels by Detroit artist Margo Wolowiec), curated by local gallery Library Street Collective. Also not to be missed are Southern Italian restaurant San Morello and the speakeasy-style Evening Bar, both run by chef Andrew Carmellini of New York’s NoHo Hospitality Group. An outdoor beer hall and fried chicken spot are forthcoming this spring.

The Shinola marries two historic buildings—the former T.B. Rayl & Co. department and Singer sewing-machine stores—with three new annexes. Since the 129 rooms span all five buildings, guests can expect 50 unique layouts, all designed in a residential style by Gachot Studios. Camel, grey, blush, and deep green tones complement oil-rubbed bronze, soft leather, plush mohair, and American white oak—a palette inspired by London social clubs. (In the hallways, cream walls are accented with “Shinola blue,” a signature color that was developed from a lone paint chip unearthed in the Singer building.) The furniture, wall coverings, and accessories are custom-designed and primarily manufactured in the U.S.; the wallpaper mimics marble found in the basement of the Rayl building; and the bathroom fixtures take cues from the caseback details of Shinola watches. Stocked with some of Shinola’s most iconic products (the Power Supply Extension Cord, shoe polish and leather care, Runwell turntables in the suites), rooms also feature items made specifically for the hotel, from bedside clocks and cashmere blankets to leather throw pillows and bath amenities inspired by Rayl’s. Raid the minibar for local staples like Great Lakes Chips and Vernors Ginger Ale or cozy up in a bathrobe embroidered with “Detroit.”

The Hotel St. Francis lays claim to being Santa Fe’s oldest hotel. Rebuilt in its current location in 1924, after a fire left its predecessor completely ravaged (save the brick chimney), the property formerly known as the De Vargas Hotel played host to elegant ladies and gentlemen in top hats, politicos, and other VIPs during its heyday. After World War II, the hotel lost some of its luster, though it was still popular with government types until the 1960s. In 1986, new owners restored the hotel to its previous grandeur, replaced the barber and beauty shops with a restaurant and bar, and gave the property its current name. Most recently, in 2008, the property was purchased by Heritage Hotels and Resorts and underwent yet another makeover. Inspired by St. Francis, the patron saint of Santa Fe and founder of the Franciscan order, the look is best described as haute-monastic. Think Frette linens and flat-screen televisions paired with neutral hues, wood furnishings crafted by local artisans, and dim, candlelit common spaces.

By all means, eat some grits ‘n’ greens down South...but don’t fall into the trap of thinking that all local food is fried when traveling in the region. Check out Manuel’s--one of the culinary highlights along the Savannah River in Hammond’s Ferry, SC. Originally from Lyon, chef/owner Manuel Verney-Caron has created a neighborhood gathering place that features local produce from literally just up the street at “Blue Clay Farm.” This community garden is one of the centerpieces of the “New Urbanism” that has built this pedestrian-friendly neighborhood near the site of a late-18th-century water crossing. Jog along the river, stroll on sidewalks within ‘conversation-distance’ of front porches, kneel down among the chickens and ducks--and make sure to end up at Manuel’s. The residents of Augusta, GA have voted Manuel’s as having the best bread in the city--you can chew on his loaves in restaurants around town and buy them at the Saturday morning Farmer’s Market at the Riverwalk. Technically, though, Manuel’s is out-of-city and out-of-state--but it’s a quick jaunt to North Augusta, SC. Go to the source, and there’s much more than bread: duck confit and croque-monsieurs are served along with burgers and pulled-pork BBQ at lunch; a more substantial taste of France can be indulged at dinner in this bouchon-inspired interior. Most visitors to Augusta come for The Master’s Golf tournament; leave the chain-restaurants around the Augusta National--the drive to SC is worth it.

I love mountain biking! I am basically obsessed with the activity, have been racing for half my life, and spend the majority of my disposable income on bike related activities. I would do it every single day if I could and at times I do. There are a lot of places in the United States that get a lot of hype for mountain biking like Fruita, Colorado and Moab, Utah, and I love visiting these places, but if you live in the south then I would recommend stopping over in Albuquerque, New Mexico on your way out west. Yes, there are some great things about the ABQ besides “Breaking Bad”! Just outside of Albuquerque is one of the coolest trails I have ever ridden called White Mesa. They call it White Mesa because of the gypsum that makes up most of the trail system. And gypsum makes for a great surface for single-track! Get ready to shred! It is also a paleontological experience because of the dinosaur bones sticking out of the eroded rocks here. There is also an amazing sinkhole at the top of one of the largest climbs on the trail. This place is hella cool! The geology here is amazing and the desert sky always sets a dramatic backdrop. The trail is single-speed friendly and the climate is great year-round! Although the trail is primarily geared towards mounting biking, hiking and horseback riding is welcomed here too. Don’t forget your mountain bike on your next trip to ABQ!

When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

I’m not sure at what age humans develop the skill to stand still and appreciate scenery, but based on a scientific survey of kids who live in my house, it’s not age seven. (On a trip to the Canadian Rockies, as my wife and I snapped photos of the relentlessly picturesque mountains, my son, Luke, investigated how quickly he could break his toy helicopter.) Luke expects Mother Nature to be his playmate. At Bandelier National Monument, about an hour’s drive from Santa Fe, New Mexico, she is. The visitor center offers kids a booklet of activities that, when completed, earn them a Junior Ranger patch. (You could call it a bribe. We prefer the term incentive.) The scavenger hunt sent us off on the Main Loop Trail in search of birds, trees, and bugs, as well as the feature that sets Bandelier apart and makes it perfect for kids: cave dwellings. Ladders of salvaged wood lead to rooms that the Pueblo people carved out of the cliffs here over 800 years ago. “I don’t want to go up, Daddy,” Luke said. “It’s too steep.” “You’ve got this, buddy,” I said. “Just take it slow.” There were no lines of impatient parents pushing their children to race up the ladder. (We saw no more than 20 people on the trail.) Luke could climb the rungs at his own pace. He paused in triumph at the top, then set off to wander the caves. While Mom and Dad squatted—“Watch out for your bald head, Daddy”—Luke could explore without even hunching. After about 45 minutes, we were walking back toward the visitor center. We crossed a nearly dry creek by hopping hand in hand from one downed log to another and were back in time for lunch, before hunger, fatigue, or boredom could set in. It was a parent’s—and child’s—dream hike. This appeared in the August/September 2014 issue.

Located on Fleming Street in the heart of Old Town Key West, the Marquesa has everything you might expect from a romantic coastal-Florida retreat. Wide porches overlook lush gardens and a bijou pool at the center of the complex, and brick paths shaded by large palms and tropical foliage give the 1884 Greek Revival–style property a secret hideaway feel. It’s understandable if you want to hole up in the guest rooms, which reside in traditional clapboard conch houses and are furnished with an eclectic collection of wood pieces sourced from around the world. In 2018, Marquesa 4-1-4 opened across the street, featuring a new compound of three buildings around a central swimming pool and courtyard. After a day spent exploring nearby Duval Street, make your way back to Café Marquesa, which is perennially packed with locals and visitors enjoying fresh seafood and an inventive menu.

Near the southwestern edge of Snow Canyon State Park is this wellness-oriented resort, a sprawling 55-acre property filled with fragrant mesquite trees, black lava gardens, and 106 rooms and villas. Stays here can be as low-key as a swim under the desert sun in one of two outdoor pools or an exfoliating red clay treatment at the renowned Sagestone Spa & Salon, but most visitors come for the full range of adventure offerings, from hiking and kayaking to sunset rappelling and horseback riding deep in red rock country. While the “consciously-planned entrée portions” at the hotel’s Canyon Breeze restaurant are all 500 calories or less—with most well under—dishes like grilled grass-fed strip loin steak with cheesy potato au gratin will leave you feeling anything but deprived. As of 2017, the resort is easier than ever to get to, thanks to new daily flights by United Express from Los Angeles to St. George.

Continue west beyond Boulder’s iconic Pearl Street walking mall, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by incredible restaurants. New to the block is Bartaco, a fun, hip South American–inspired eatery that always seems to be hopping; while there might be a wait for a table, keep an eye on the first-come, first-served bar seating. Choose from unique taco flavors like glazed pork belly with arbol chili sauce or tamarind-glazed duck, and sides like a spicy cucumber salad or fresh pineapple with lime—and make sure to save room for the fresh, hot churros. The Kitchen, self-described as an American bistro, is one of the fancier, albeit relaxed, eateries, offering brunch, lunch, and dinner that have been sourced as much as possible from local farmers. For delicious pub food, jump into the classic West End Tavern. Burgers, beers, ribs, BBQ, and more make this a place to satisfy everybody.

Original Joe’s has the same birth year as another pretty famous San Francisco landmark: the Golden Gate Bridge. Both are definitely worth checking out, but only Original Joe’s will serve you a hearty Italian meal in a red leather booth. Back in 1937, the restaurant was a 14-stool counter on Taylor Street where immigrant and family patriarch Tony Rodin served Croatian-Italian-American comfort food. Original Joe’s is run by the third generation of the family. A fire destroyed the first location in 2007, but the corner spot in North Beach that opened five years later can’t be beat. Inside, the family’s San Francisco history is revealed by walls hung with black-and-white photos, letters, and other ephemera. The menu showcases some of Tony’s recipes, such as eggplant parmigiana, Joe’s meatballs, and veal parmigiana. Those counter stools are there, too, saved from the fire and brought over to the new Original Joe’s.

Gothic and grand, this 18th-century former nobleman’s home stands proudly on the banks of the Grand Canal in the San Marco district. Venetian-born owner and interior designer (among her many talents) Francesca Possati has restored this historic home to its regal glory. She has worked with local artists to breathe new life into original woodwork, ornate trompe l’oeil ceilings, and silk wall hangings, resulting in a once-again polished and posh palazzo. The distinctly Venetian rooms—many with canal views—are styled with rich fabrics, bold wall coverings, and pristine period antiques and illuminated by Murano glass chandeliers. Of course, they’ve been updated with the latest modern perks (like Italian marble and whirlpool tubs in the bathroom).

Stroll the art-filled hallways, splurge for a tasting menu at the elegant restaurant, and watch the gondolas float by from the red-awninged terrace. La dolce vita, indeed.

Ideally situated on the cusp between major financial, retail, and historic districts is the Westin Chosun Seoul. Built during the Japanese occupation of Korea, the hotel survived through World War II and is the oldest in the country. Originally the Chosun Hotel, it was designed by German architectural firm Goetheland. Constructed in 1914, the European-style building was unique among its distinctly Asian counterparts. The Chosun was known for opulence and imported luxury goods from Europe and North America: a crystal chandelier from Tiffany’s in New York, silver dining utensils from Germany, and linens from Ireland. The hotel was also the first in Korea to build an elevator, host a ballroom dance, and serve ice cream. Most of the original building was demolished in 1970, and the modern hotel was rebuilt in its stead. Fortunately, the view hasn’t changed in a century. The hotel overlooks the picturesque Hwangudan Temple (“Temple of Heaven”).

Touting itself as the world’s first design hotel, the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel was designed by world-renowned Danish architect and designer Arne Jacobsen, in the 1960s, for Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS). A sleek, 20-story skyscraper, the building towers over central Copenhagen’s modest, historic buildings, an emblem of Denmark’s cutting-edge status in mid-century design. Thanks to its unusual height, too, most rooms have exceptional views of the city—a rarity in this short city.

Almost all of the rooms have been entirely updated, though the hotel still maintains the spirit of Jacobsen’s original design, with mid-century lines and colorful Egg and Swan chairs throughout. One original room (room 606) has been preserved, and it’s an attraction in itself, as is the rooftop restaurant Alberto K, open for breakfast for Business Class travelers, and the main restaurant Café Royal, which focuses on classic New Nordic cuisine.