Located across the Tiber River from the Centro Storico, Trastevere is a kaleidoscope of ivy-covered buildings, complicated Italian history, and bombastic nightlife. The heart of the neighborhood is Piazza Santa Maria, a large square where street performers show off their stuff, and Porta Portese’s massive Sunday flea market. Film buffs can take a walk through the maze-like side streets for a glimpse of director Pier Paolo Pasolini’s early life before heading off to one of the neighborhood’s many bars for a craft beer or aperitivo.

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Trastevere - a moment in time

We just happened upon the parading of Vergine del Carmine statue through the streets of the Trastevere district. This takes place during a festival held every July that is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was a very spiritual experience that took place on the small cobble stoned streets, with the late afternoon sun creating beautiful light throughout the journey of the procession.

Farmers Market in Trastevere, Rome

Farmers markets are an everyday thing in the life of an Italian, or anyone living in continental Europe, so they aren´t hard to find in Romes residential neighbourhoods but this one caught our attention while exploring the streets of the Trastevere district. Somewhat removed from the central tourist district, Trastevere tends to be a little bit less crowded and not quite so expensive.

Wandering the streets of Trastevere

Trastevere is a Roman neighborhood across the river, as the name suggests: “tras” meaning across, and “Tevere” meaning the Tiber, name of the river. To the south of the Vatican and away from the central tourist attractions of the Forum and Colosseum, Trastevere tends to be a bit less crowded and pricey, without losing any of the charm and beauty that is typical of Rome. The central piazza is of course lined with restaurants that have menus in English (and prices to match), but if you take the time to wander the tiny streets and get lost in the maze of sandstone-colored buildings, you will definitely find cheaper and more local places to eat.

Trastevere night walk

A lovely Roman neighbourhood which has lots to see and eat. Very authentic-feeling and certainly a good idea to take a stroll here especially at night as it has a substantial number of cafes and restaurants.

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