Chef Hernán Correa, the creative force behind the restaurant known as Riesen, is famed for his love of experimentation: He transforms old-school Panamanian recipes into something all his own. Hits include a version of the pickled pigs’ feet known locally as saus, as well as his hint-of-lime chicharrón, or pork crackling. That said, nothing has received more attention than his signature iteration of the traditional mamallena dessert: His version of the bread-pudding treat comes topped with Abuelo Añejo 12 Años rum ice cream he makes himself. The menu updates periodically as dishes adapt to seasonal ingredients. Correa also stays close to regional farmers and ranchers; some 90 percent of all ingredients are local and fresh.