This relatively new arrival to Richmond’s booming dining scene is located in Oregon Hill, once home to Civil War–era ironworkers. L’Opossum has a witty menu (“Beef Swellington”, “Darth Grouper”, “Polyamorous Hippie”) and flamboyant, romantic décor that sets it apart from the pack. The food is punchy, nuanced, and memorable. Service is relaxed yet professional. Reservations are essential.