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Inside Switzerland’s Once-in-a-Generation Winegrowers’ Festival

By Jamey Keaten, Associated Press

Jul 19, 2019

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Participants in the official opening parade of the Fête des Vignerons on July 18, 2019

Photo by Valentin Flauraud/Keystone via AP

Participants in the official opening parade of the Fête des Vignerons on July 18, 2019

Swiss residents and tourists alike are partying like they haven’t since 1999.

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The Swiss town of Vevey has kicked off the 12th Fête des Vignerons, or Winemakers Festival, the latest installment in a centuries-old tradition of celebrating vineyard workers—which nowadays takes place only once a generation.

Festival organizers have pulled out the stops for the celebration in Vevey, a lakeside town near Switzerland’s famous terraced vineyards that are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In 2016, the U.N. cultural agency classified the festival itself as part of the “intangible cultural heritage” of Switzerland.

An aerial view of the Fête des Vignerons arena, which can fit 20,000 spectators and has a giant central LED floor.
Among the big-ticket items in the 100 million Swiss franc (US$100 million) budget for the festival is a purpose-built arena—big enough to hold 20,000 people, or more than the entire town’s population. Towering over Lake Geneva, the venue is hosting an Olympics- or Super Bowl–style show with dancers, music, and other festivities. This year, organizers are going high-tech with what’s billed as the world's largest outdoor LED-lit stage.

As many as a million people are expected in Vevey while the festival runs through August 11.

Dancers take part in the official opening parade prior to the first representation and crowning ceremony on July 18, 2019.
Above all, it’s a colorful, timeless celebration of Swiss-ness tied up in a festival for winegrowers. People dress in costumes to represent facets of life in the vineyards: insects like ants and grasshoppers; or pests like raisin-pecking starlings; young lovers frolicking among the vines; droughts and storms that confound winegrowers.

During the kickoff parade on Thursday, kids in butterfly or ladybug costumes marched through town, while marching band players took a break from the Swiss sunshine with glasses more often filled with cold beer than wine.

Organized in Vevey by the brotherhood of winegrowers since 1979, the event will celebrate winemaking from July 18 to August 11 this year.
“It’s been 20 years that we’ve been waiting for this moment now, and it’s crazy!” said Vevey native Fanny Rupp, a 31-year-old physical therapist wearing a wide-brimmed hat and traditional dress. With an arm draped over her father’s shoulder, they sang a few bars of the festival anthem “Ranz des Vaches”—a nostalgia-rich Alpine song popularized by 18th-century Geneva philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau.

Some 5,500 dancers, actors, and extras are working at the festival, which features parades, music, and lots of alcohol consumption. But the centerpiece is the awards given to winegrowing standouts.

The festival has its roots in a competition that began in the 17th century to ensure quality wines from the region, with a grading system that often got censorious—with some winegrowers who didn’t pass muster all but shunned. The festival began a more upbeat approach by “crowning” standout winegrowers in the first formal festival in 1797.

Posing for photos during the Fête des Vignerons parade
A show playing nightly represents a “year in the life of the vineyard,” with 20 scenes culminating with the harvest. While the winegrowers are the honorees, the festival is really a celebration of Switzerland and its amazing natural environment, featuring each of the country’s 26 cantons, or regions.

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Frederic Hohl, the festival’s executive director, said many Swiss living abroad have booked tickets to attend the celebrations. “Honestly, we can say that Vevey will be the capital of Switzerland for one month,” he said.

Vevey was one of 25 global destinations to make AFAR’s list of Where to Go in 2019 for the wine festival.

>> Next: Plan Your Trip With AFAR’s Guide to Switzerland

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