Castles, Moors, and Storybook Towns Without the Crowds—This Is England at It’s Best

Think of England and your mind will probably highlight its diverse, dynamic capital, London. Or perhaps you picture quaint Cotswold villages made from gold-tinted stone, each surrounded by a patchwork of pretty green pasture, perfect for rambling on a summer’s day. These are two of England’s most popular destinations, and while it’s easy to understand why—the thrill of the city, the serenity of manicured country estates—it’s also easy to go beyond the obvious and find similarly enchanting sides to this country without the crowds.

Trade the overtouristed places like Cornwall and the Lake District for equally spectacular coastlines and hills, and you might just find you’re the only person on the sand or the summit. I’ve lived in England my entire life, and this small but special country continues to deliver surprises well beyond the popular places. Here’s how to find quintessential England without the crowds.

Seek out alternative attractions

Courtesy of heritagephotographic.co.uk / Sim/Castle Howard/Simon Broadhead (L); photo by Nick Howard (R)

England is home to some bucket list–worthy attractions. Royal residences like Windsor Castle and Buckingham Palace draw millions of visitors each year, while ancient sites like Stonehenge are a favorite for those seeking a connection to our prehistoric past. But there’s much more to this country than its icons. Swap those popular palaces for visits to stately homes like Castle Howard in North Yorkshire, which served as a filming location for both Bridgerton and Brideshead Revisited, or Chatsworth in the Peak District, where you can tour its opulent interiors with a guide and take a look “below stairs” where the house servants would have lived.

In Wiltshire you can swap the orchestrated visits to Stonehenge for the freedom of Avebury, a huge, 4,500-year-old stone circle with a village of stone and timber-framed cottages running right through its center. At the Neolithic site, you can walk up to and even touch the stones to connect with the past.

Discover city life beyond the capital

Photo by Jon Craig

With several major international airports on its doorstep, London is the hub through which most travelers will arrive in England. The key is to spend your time in the capital’s lesser-known neighborhoods, where you’ll meet far more locals than visitors. Bermondsey is known for its many breweries, set along the “beer mile,” and the delicious Maltby Street Market on weekends, while Hampstead is home to a vast green space with wonderful views of the city sprawl beyond.

Outside of the capital, myriad cities across the country are also creative and packed with fascinating historic sights. About 120 miles west of London, just over an hour by train, lies Bristol—a vast metropolis that made Afar’s annual Where to Go list in 2022. It’s long been known for its collectively rebellious spirit (protestors toppled a statue of a local slave trader in 2020) and creative output; it is home to Aardman Animations, the company behind the much-loved Wallace & Gromit films. It’s a UNESCO City of Film and is where the world’s most famous anonymous street artist, Banksy, sprayed his first cans of paint.

Street art tours with Where the Wall will introduce you to Banksy’s work, alongside some more of Bristol’s brilliant street artists such as Inkie and Lucas Antics. And for those seeking British history, visit Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s SS Great Britain, a steamship created by the man who masterminded much of England’s most impressive infrastructure, including the railway from London to Bristol.

Capture quaint England at its finest up north

Courtesy of the Grand, York

The Cotswolds isn’t the only place in England packed with appealing villages. The North York Moors National Park, set on the country’s northeast coast, is a diverse landscape of farmland and moors, sprinkled with little communities inland and along the shore.

“The pretty village of Hawnby acts as a great starting point for a walk/cycle ride into the surrounding countryside,” Beth Ghest, area ranger for the national park, wrote in an email to Afar. “The village is one of the first to become dark-skies friendly in England, and so you’ll find that when darkness falls, there are no bright, glaring lights, just subdued lighting that has benefits for the wildlife.”

With its own coastline, the national park is also home to traditional fishing villages like Staithes. Ghest recommended visiting in September for the arts festival and to try a new arts-inspired geocache trail for families.

“There are wildlife and fishing boat trips out from the harbour, and beautiful coastal walks in either direction following the Cleveland Way National Trail high up onto the cliff tops before descending down to the next cove,” Ghest stated.

There’s cosmopolitan city life to enjoy in North Yorkshire, too, with the handsome city of York just south of the National Park. “If you like the idea of venturing back into a city, but one with all the charm of the moors and none of the bustle that big cities offer, York is the perfect place to be,” said Ahmed Abdalla, head chef at Legacy in the exceptionally regal hotel the Grand.

According to Abdalla, “The best brunch spot is Robinsons, great for coffee and something to fuel you for a day of exploring. Cresci is a great pizza pit-stop, and if you’re looking for a fun and welcoming wine bar, 22 Yards or Pairings are both brilliant.”

Swap the lakes for the peaks

Photo by Irina Poliakova/Shutterstock

If it’s hiking trails you are hankering for, don’t follow the masses to the Lake District. Instead, make for the Peak District National Park. Right in the middle of northern England, this undulating region has a handful of summits over 2,000 feet well worth climbing for 360-degree views. Kinder Scout is the highest at 2,090 feet, and Mam Tor (1,796 feet) is a favorite, too, for its dramatic views across the Hope Valley.

“While most would go to Chatsworth House, it’s worth looking at Kedleston Hall and Haddon Hall nearby—both steeped in history and far less busy,” said Adrian Daniel, forest camp leader at Wildhive Callow Hall. For foodies, he noted, the Lighthouse at Boylestone is perfect for special occasions (expect Japanese milk breads with burnt leek butter and local chalk stream trout). He also recommended the more recently opened Tasting Club in Brailsford. “It’s a really fun concept with the menu playing on childhood classics,” said Daniel, offering dishes like crispy lamb tacos alongside inventive gin cocktails flavored with smoky bacon and maple.

Make the most of the shoulder seasons

Almost all schools in England enjoy the long summer break at the same time (unlike in Scotland, which staggers its school vacation time for each region). That means from late July until early September, accommodation in England is at a premium and the roads are likely to be much busier, too.

Come during term time, though, and you’ll find everywhere feels a little quieter. Mid-September to mid-October is the golden month: The weather is often still relatively mild, the students are back in class, and the summer tourists have largely left. November and January are the best times to visit for better deals on accommodation, and you’ll definitely have some of this country’s fine sandy beaches to yourself then.