Find out how to capture the day's most dramatic moments from Nikon photographer Flash Parker, who shares examples from his travels.
Evocative sunrises and sunsets are the foundation of countless travel photography portfolios—and social media followings. Familiar scenes take on a totally different character when photographed at the bookends of the day; there's a subtle magic in a sunrise and an otherworldly charm to a sunset that wins over the hardest hearts.
With some practice and an understanding of fundamentals and technique, anyone can learn to photograph the sun well. Here are some tips from my years of trial and error—and dogged determination to get out of bed with the first alarm.
1. Focus on the Foreground
It’s not the sun itself that defines a great sunrise or sunset, but its effect on the landscape and people in its path, so seek out a compelling foreground element.
To add impact, I got low to the sand to accentuate the footprints, and focused on the silhouette. Additionally, I used a circular polarizer (CP-L) to filter the polarized light, increasing contrast with the clouds and darkening the sky overall.
2. Choose a Variety of Vantage Points
Give yourself time to document sunrises as they evolve—and keep in mind that the best images may not even picture the sun at all. Consider this one, shot from Lighthouse Park in West Vancouver, looking back at the city of Vancouver’s skyline. It’s dark, there’s nothing in the foreground to capture the viewer’s attention, and the fireball in the sky is overwhelming. In short, this is not a strong sunrise image.
3. Incorporate Off-Camera Light
With time to kill while waiting for a ferry to take me and a friend from Krabi to Railay Beach in Thailand, we marveled at the setting sun, and wondered how we could photograph the longboats swaying softly on the water; with the sun already set behind the rocks, the boats were completely lost to shadow, and their silhouettes were not distinct enough to present a provocative image.
Enter the Nikon SB-910 Speedlight (now replaced by the SB-5000), and the Nikon Creative Lighting System (CLS): Nikon’s Speedlights are the best in the industry and create light to accentuate otherwise difficult-to-capture scenes. For this image, I used my camera’s built-in flash to trigger the SB-910 wirelessly, which my friend, positioned roughly three feet to my right, was aiming at the boats. (Nikon’s new D7500 also incorporates a built-in flash that serves as a wireless trigger for compatible off camera Speedlights.) The result is one of my favorite images to date.
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This is another image I shot with an assist from a Nikon Speedlight. I loved the character of the setting sun and the quality of the light in this scene, but if I didn’t have a Speedlight at my disposal, I would have had to have made a difficult choice; expose for the landscape, putting the musician into silhouette, or exposure for the musician, and blow out my background and sky. I used an SB-800 Speedlight in a softbox which helps to soften the light from the Speedlight, camera right, to add light back on the musician and complete the scene.
Tips for More Advanced Shooters…
4. Manipulate Your Shutter Speed
With a little patience and a stable shooting platform, you can manipulate your shutter speed to achieve dramatic effects. While in Rovinj, Croatia, I knew I wanted to shoot a sunrise image that communicated something of the town’s tranquility; I also knew that crashing waves in the foreground were not going to help.
My solution was to set up a tripod, lower my aperture and ISO, and shoot a 5-second exposure to smooth the water as much as possible. I had to work to find a balance between smooth water and blurry boats; I found that 30-second exposures left too much time for the boats to sway, while 1-second exposures didn’t smooth the water enough.
You don’t need any special gear to achieve an image like this—you don’t even need a tripod although I recommend one, if you have a stable shooting surface. All Nikon DSLR cameras, including the new D7500, offer full exposure control.
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Now consider this image, where I took this technique to the next level. I wanted to capture an image of hallowed Uluru (Ayer’s Rock) that would speak to the sweeping, desolate nature of Australia’s Red Center; I got up early to get into position, set my camera on a tripod, and dialed in my settings – f/18 to keep the entire scene sharp from front to back, a lower ISO of 50 to keep a long-exposure free of noise, and a shutter speed of 145-seconds (achieved with a remote trigger).
This next image was shot only a few moments later—the sun had risen, giving the sky a totally different character, and the clouds had changed, too, thanks to my shutter speed of 1/3 sec. Drama happens in an instant when you’re shooting the rising sun.
5. Take Advantage of Bracket Exposures
This is an advanced technique, but one you’ll wonder how you ever lived without once you’ve mastered it. The concept behind bracketing is simple; in scenes where light is uneven or even extreme from one section to the next, your camera allows you to shoot photos a set number of stops brighter or darker than your selected exposure, to capture as much dynamic range as possible.
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