With four main islands—Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada, and Jost Van Dyke—and over 50 smaller isles, the British Virgin Islands has plenty of territory to explore and even more distinctive flavors to taste along the way. No matter where you drop anchor, expect seafood to play a big part in the dining scene. These islands boast some of the Caribbean’s most delicious conch and fish.
For a taste of tradition, order the national dish, fish and fungi, which features braised fish cooked with tomatoes, onions, and other spices alongside cornmeal cakes and okra. Meanwhile, lobster enthusiasts should head to Anegada, where monster-sized specimens are served fried, grilled, and buttered at the annual Anegada Lobster Festival each November.
The BVI’s diverse West Indian cuisine weaves together the influence of many distinct cultures, including Indo-Asian indentured workers, enslaved ancestral Africans, Indigenous islanders, and European settlers. Today, the result is an unexpected mix of spices like curry, nutmeg, and jerk seasoning, as well as a fusion of flavors from chicken roti and johnny cakes to pates (hand pies) and callaloo soup. Here, we’ve rounded up the best ways to experience the destination’s culinary offerings.
Attend the Anegada Lobster Festival
Enjoy lobster during the Anegada Lobster Festival and beyond.
Courtesy of the British Virgin Islands
Known for its thriving reefs, the coral island of Anegada boasts some of the best fishing—and lobstering—in the archipelago. Seafood lovers won’t want to miss the 12th annual Anegada Lobster Festival, happening from November 29 to December 1, 2024. During the three-day culinary event, local restaurants such as the Anegada Reef Hotel and Cow Wreck Beach Bar & Grill showcase freshly caught spiny lobsters in rich, creative dishes such as creamy lobster pasta and lobster fritters. Stop by the Lobster Trap for whole lobsters grilled over an open flame in classic Anegada style, live music, and among the most stunning sunsets on the island.
Eat barbecue in Virgin Gorda
For the best barbecue and views in the British Virgin Islands, head to Hog Heaven. Perched high above the North Sound on Virgin Gorda, diners can see straight out to Necker Island, Saba Rock, Leverick Bay, and even Anegada on a clear day.
Relax on the deck and soak up the atmosphere as you enjoy tender barbecue ribs, chicken, and pulled pork sandwiches with all the fixings, from potato salad to coleslaw. Feel free to stick around after your meal. “Blondie,” a pig farmer and Hog Heaven’s owner, makes a mean rum punch.
Attend the BVI Food Fête and more food festivals
Originally held every November, BVI Food Fête now celebrates the islands’ unique culinary offerings all year long. During Taste of Virgin Gorda in March, ticketholders can watch chef cook-offs, listen to live music, and enjoy in an open bar with food tastings from participating restaurants, including CocoMaya and Chez Bamboo.
Come June, the festivities move to Tortola for a family-friendly party overlooking the water at Cyril B. Romney Tortola Pier Park. Don’t skip the homemade ice cream from ManJack Creamery, which showcases Caribbean flavors like pineapple and soursop. In January and February, it’s Jost Van Dyke’s turn to shine at Jost Lime & Dime, featuring reduced ferry fees and extended hours for more merrymaking.
Sip the original Painkiller cocktail at the Soggy Dollar
The iconic Soggy Dollar Bar
Courtesy of the British Virgin Islands
While today anyone can get there by car, taxi, or ferry ride, Soggy Dollar once was accessible only by boat and is famous for (and named after) the wet (or damp) cash and bills guests inevitably use to buy their drinks after doggy paddling to shore. Notably, the bar is also the birthplace of the BVI’s most iconic cocktail, the Painkiller. Made with a secret ratio of premium dark rum, cream of coconut, pineapple, orange juice, and freshly grated Grenadian nutmeg, you’ll likely agree it’s well worth the swim. Those with an unrelenting sweet tooth may wish to sample the Nilla Killa, a dessert-worthy take on the original that includes a dash of vanilla.
Try Caribbean cuisine in Tortola
For local fare like fried fish in creole sauce and fungi (a Caribbean-style polenta), head to Tortola’s Tropical Fusion Beach Bar & Grill, a charming oceanside bistro on Long Bay Beach. But don’t expect an average island meal. Run by chef Kenneth Molyneaux, the award-winning former captain of the BVI Culinary Team, this popular restaurant draws a crowd who know they can expect homemade cooking. Molyneaux draws on his roots to turn out time-consuming dishes like mango jerk chicken and stewed oxtail. Can’t decide what to order? Stop by on Sunday for the buffet brunch.
