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France can capture your heart in a week, but takes a lifetime to truly explore.

Have a new hobby thanks to the COVID lockdown? Are you suddenly really well versed in sourdough starters? Cycling? Whisky drinking? These trips will inspire you to turn new (or dormant) passions into a far-flung education.

Wine lovers, rejoice: the French-style bar à vins, beloved especially in Paris as a casual, personality-driven neighborhood haunt for regular wine drinking, is staking a claim in the United States.

The innovative street performance company La Machine celebrates 20 years of wonder with an expansive new exhibition space, upcoming show, and more.

Picasso’s stepdaughter is creating a new museum dedicated to her father that will showcase many never-before-seen works.

From exploring old-school chocolate-making techniques to getting a cacao-infused spa treatment, here’s how to go beyond the bar.

Overview

On this week’s episode of Travel Tales by AFAR, the food-obsessed host of the podcast eats, drinks, and shops along the 400-mile Vallée de la Gastronomie.

In Aix-en-Provence, you can find a market for almost anything — books, seasonal vegetables, flowers, pastries, vintage knickknacks. These markets take place year-round, with locals and travelers pouring into the city’s main squares and streets to do their shopping, be it for Sunday lunch or souvenirs to take back home. My favorite market is in the Place Richelme, a small, plane tree-covered square in downtown Aix. Here, the real “producers” of the region — those who grow or bake or produce whatever it is they’re selling — offer up their goods every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday of the week. Head over around 7 a.m. to watch the vendors set up their stands and get a jump on all the best vegetables!

One of France’s national monuments, the St. Sauveur Cathedral in Aix-en-Provence occupies the site of a 1st-century Roman forum and, according to legend, a temple to Apollo. Upon approaching the church, you’ll immediately notice its varied architecture—there’s a 12th-century Romanesque gate adjoining a Roman wall; an enormous, intricately carved Gothic gate from the 15th and 16th centuries; and a bell tower that was erected between 1323 and 1425. Inside, three naves of different styles (Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque) flank an octagonal font, which rests on a stand dating back to the 5th century. As with many sites in Aix, you can scan a QR code with your smartphone and download an audio guide to learn more about the cathedral, including its 12th-century cloister and baptistery.

Tucked away in a quiet pocket of Aix-en-Provence, Hôtel Le Pigonnet seems too good to be true, from its four acres of flowering gardens and statue-lined swimming pool to its outdoor restaurant under the chestnut trees and cozy bar with live music. In fact, the hotel, which is housed in a former 18th-century Provençal manor, is so lovely that Cézanne used to wander the grounds, painting the distant Ste-Victoire mountain from various angles. Currently owned by French actor Christophe Lambert, Le Pigonnet is a deserving member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, with 45 romantic rooms and service that accounts for every detail. Stay here for just one night and you’ll understand why it’s attracted the likes of Princess Caroline and Clint Eastwood.

Art lovers will have to wait until at least 2121 for the opening of Aix’s Jacqueline and Pablo Picasso Museum, which will include 2,000 works from when the artist was married to his second wife. Until then, they can find Picasso on the walls of the Musée Granet, which also boasts pieces by Cézanne, Rembrandt, Degas, Renoir, Monet, and Van Gogh, plus an American exhibition, a neoclassical sculpture collection, and several Pop Art works. The museum is a little tricky to find—look for the Church of St. John off Cours Mirabeau—but once you’re there, it only costs 5.50 euros (around $6) for a ticket. Admission nearly doubles during the summer season but also includes entry to the nearby modern art museum, Granet XXe.

A 10-minute bus ride from Rotunde lies Camp des Milles, a former tile factory that served as an internment camp and deportation center from 1939 to 1942. In August and September of 1942 alone, the camp held 10,000 people, 2,000 of whom were eventually deported to Auschwitz. Today, the site functions as a history museum and memorial, with the purpose of honoring those lost during the Holocaust and educating against racism, anti-Semitism, and all forms of fanaticism. Over three floors, visitors can observe areas like the former sleeping quarters, and view illustrations and paintings left by the interned on the walls. In addition to its permanent exhibitions, the museum often hosts temporary shows, cultural events, conferences, educational workshops, and more.

At this 11-acre organic farm outside Aix-en-Provence, American Lisa Pepin and her French husband, Johann, lead truffle-hunting tours in English during both the summer (May to September) and winter (mid-November to mid-March) truffle seasons. Guests search for “black gold” while learning about how truffles are harvested and truffle dogs are trained, then enjoy a sampling of fresh truffle hors d’oeuvres, Champagne, and Les Pastras’ olive and truffle oils. During the hunt, the Pepins regale their visitors with stories of success and sabotage, while teaching them the difference between a Provençale truffle and its inferior Chinese counterparts, and how to properly clean, store, and cook with truffles. Johann’s enchanting tales and Lisa’s joie de vivre will have you coming back for more, only next time to stomp grapes, harvest olives, or simply shop the farm’s delicious products.

A Good Year, starring Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard, was shot in Cucuron, just 35 miles north of Aix-en-Provence. While the medieval town hasn’t had many celebrity sightings since, it stills draws visitors with its exquisite Michelin-starred restaurant Le Petit Maison. Here, the weekly set menus—each available with wine pairings—come courtesy of chef Eric Sapet, who worked for 11 years in renowned Paris restaurants like the three-Michelin-starred Tour d’Argent. Ranging from wild shrimp bouillabaisse with chanterelle mushrooms to roast duck breast with peaches, his dishes are something to be savored, especially when enjoyed in La Petite Maison’s elegant dining room, which charms with old-fashioned woodwork, Renaissance tapestries, and period tiles.