In the March/April 2012 issue, Alexis Adams wrote about hortopita, the savory pie related made with layers of homemade phyllo, wild greens, aromatic herbs such as dill and parsley, and touloumotiri, a rustic cheese made from both goat’s and sheep’s milk, considered the mother of feta.

Here’s the phyllo recipe. For the rest of the hortopita recipe, see the full story.


4½  cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp kosher salt
1¾ cups warm water, as needed
¼ cup olive oil, plus extra for brushing the layers of dough
2 tbsp red wine vinegar


rolling pin, the longer the better
pastry brush


1. Mix 4 cups of flour and the salt in a mixing bowl; make a well in the center.
2. Add 1½ cups of water, the olive oil, and the vinegar. Work the flour into the liquid with a fork until a scrappy, floury dough begins to form.
3. Turn the dough mixture out onto a floured surface and knead with oiled hands until silky and smooth, adding a little more flour or water if necessary.
4. Divide into six balls, cover with a damp dish towel, and let the dough rest at room temperature for at least one hour.
5. Roll the balls out into 13-inch-by-17-inch rectangular sheets about 1/16th-inch thick.

Photo by Chryssa Nikoleri. This appeared in the March/April 2012 issue. What indigenous foods have you discovered while traveling? Share your stories at