Portland

Bridge City, Stumptown, Beervana, or the City of Roses—Portland is as eclectic as its nicknames. The four distinct districts all tout a variation on the theme “Keep Portland Weird.” Southwest houses the downtown city core, a bustling blend of high-profile retail, culture, art, and entertainment. Southeast clings to the Willamette River on its gritty edge, softening into quaint neighborhoods offering all levels of lifestyle. North/Northeast, or “NoPo,” is an evolving, ethno-diverse tract of livability dotted with affordable, hip haunts and a cooler-than-thou attitude. Northwest is the upscale sustainability model anchored by the Pearl and slightly adrift from Uptown/23rd. Together these districts deliver a trendsetting cultural crossroad catering to over eight million visitors a year.

original-portland-banner-crop-2019.jpg

Photo by Elena Kuchko/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Portland?

There’s a reason Portland boasts the highest concentration of craft brewers and distillers on the planet: the rain. Starting in late September, it is a close companion, lasting well into June. That shouldn’t stop you from planning a trip any time of year. Fall boasts colorful scenery and bountiful harvests from local growers. Winter snow is a novel inspiration for intellectual and physical pursuits. Rains relent somewhat in spring, giving way to warmer weather and lingering light. Summer is sensational, with dry, sunny days stretching into glorious evenings perfect for peddling your bike through a happy-hour haze and beyond.

How to get around Portland

Do the 12-mile jaunt from PDX International to downtown on MAX. The $2.50 train ride to the city center takes 40 minutes, providing a great introduction to Portland’s transit environment. The taxi ride takes half the time and runs $40. Amtrak and Greyhound make it easy for West Coasters to drop in.

Skip the car and go by bike, train, tram, streetcar, and bus. A bike gets you everywhere easily, unless you venture into the West Hills for a mile-long uphill slog to the famous Rose Garden. MAX trains are bike-friendly and can enhance your cycling range. You’ll need a car to get up to the mountains, out to wine country, over to the coast, or up the gorge. Some hotels now offer bikes as part of their room package. Bike rentals are plentiful and convenient.

Can’t miss things to do in Portland

Rain or shine, day or night, you can always make the pilgrimage to Powell’s Books. A visit to Powell’s is more than a trip to a bookstore; it’s a literary expedition. The actual need to buy a book is irrelevant. Powell’s is a small city with food, drinks, and entertainment. Oh, and books—rows upon rows of books. The clientele is a cross section of PDX culture, from grandmas to hipsters, students to survivalists. Explore the color-coded rooms to your heart’s content, and then try to find your way out…

Food and drink to try in Portland

Dining in Portland is a remarkably delicious adventure. The fare is focused, local, and sustainably mouthwatering. Start with locally roasted morning coffee. Grab your gluten-free-for-all donut in the food cart pods. Mix up regional and international offerings between lunch and dinner. Do your homework on the food scene and come hungry. But don’t forget to let the spirit move you. With breweries, wineries, and distilleries littering the landscape, it’s easy to find something you’ll absolutely love. PDX turns happy hour into a lifestyle, so carve out that 4-7pm slot on the schedule to make the rounds.

Culture in Portland

Portland’s large reader population enjoys a library and a bookstore that each cover an entire city block. The city is a rich new-media outpost—with film, literature, art, and music spanning the cultural spectrum in a variety of venues and installations. The museum scene offers a full complement of content from art to history, science to forestry, all easily accessible and striving to give visitors context for their NW experience. Note that Portlandia (not the TV show) is the second-largest bronze statue in the United States, eclipsed only by the one on Liberty Island. See it!

Summer serves up some of the most entertaining events on the festival calendar. Cinco de Mayo kicks off the season; then the Rose Festival officially welcomes summer in June. The Waterfront Blues Fest fuels a carefree, all-ages party well into the evening on the Fourth of July, attracting national headliners. The Oregon Brewers Fest puts the beer in Beervana with summer and winter events. Go international with the Chinese, Polish, Italian, Greek, and German festivals. Music/Techfest NW is Portland’s all-out SXSW knockoff in fall. Portland International Film Fest lights up screens in winter. Bottom line—the party’s always pumping.

Practical Information

It’s all about the environment, so always bring rain gear. Pack jacket and pants if you’re planning on going native. Summer can be hot. Winter can bring snow. Fall and spring weather are all over the map, so wear your layers for a comfortable stay. Don’t forget your running, yoga, or exercise wear, and get a workout in. Major-league soccer with the Portland Timbers is a real treat, but tickets are tight, so plan ahead and sit with the “Timbers Army.” Across the river, Winterhawks and Blazers seats are more accessible.

Guide Editor

Jay Rymeski is a veteran writer, producer, and journalist based in Portland, Oregon.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
We’re living in the golden age of hotels that have craft cocktails, Instagram-ready design, and in-room turntables. These properties, ranging from West Texan motels to loft-like boutiques in the middle of city noise, are our absolute favorites of the breed.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
When it comes to pub crawling in Portland, Deschutes Brewing is a classy stop to regroup and recharge in the Pearl. With more than a dozen taps pouring the usual suspects along with a collection of seasonal and experimental brews made specifically for Northwest tastes, the bar has something for every beer lover. The kitchen serves fresh, sustainable fare, including vegetarian and gluten-friendly options. Try the beer-battered halibut or the smoked brisket. The steamed clams with a side of sweet potato fries will also keep you going until your next destination.
Actually, the lobby of the Sapphire Hotel is as far as you’ll get when you visit these days. And for all intents and purposes, it’s far enough. The Sapphire maintains the edge its enjoyed since its inception in the early 1900s. Then a gathering place for the quirky and lightly mannered; cool before cool was cool, it now is the great-grandparent of PDX hip. The candlelit scene keeps the conversation low and the alcohol levels, therapeutic. With cocktails like: You’re Not My Real Dad, Retrosex, Winter Isn’t Coming and Floozie, what could possibly go wrong. The hotel rooms are long gone, but the kitchen still hangs around. The menu maintains a simplicity and charm of another era. An order of the salmon corn cakes with a Sapphire salad will easily sustain, but why stop there. Go for the fully-loaded Sapphire burger, have another pop and regroup for the ginger-vanilla bean creme brûlée. The best thing about the Sapphire is the hang time. It’s out on the bleeding edge of Hawthorne, so once you get out there, you’ll tend to want to linger. The atmosphere encourages it with a sharp wait staff supported by bartenders that roll the dice to delver concoctions you can’t get just anywhere. Happy hour tends to evolve into happy evening, even happy night. I’d say it was a gem, but that would be stating the obvious.
Anyone taking diligent notes on Portland decor is sure to notice similarities in design from location to location beyond a love for taxidermy. Much of that Rose City decorating style emanates from Schoolhouse Electric. Located in a 115-year-old redbrick warehouse and factory building in an industrial part of the city’s West Side, Schoolhouse Electric sells everything from perfect reproductions of 1960s-era IBM clocks to more vintage sconces and analogue clocks than you can shake a stick at. The store’s Ristretto Roasters coffee bar provides a caffeine boost when your energy for curated doorknobs reaches its limit.
Ducking into the Matador in the alphabet district is a great way to tour the Mexican culture through its tequila and mezcal heritage. Touting over 100 tequilas in a variety of vintages, you’re likely to become a bit overwhelmed by the depth and complexity. This anxiety is generally relieved after a couple of shots. Staff are keen on giving solid recommendations based on your preferences. There are “flights” of tequila to introduce you to the subtle characteristics of this oft-misunderstood beverage. Be daring and undaunted by the task at hand, and try to sip, not shoot. Salt & lime optional. The space is anchored by a large fire pit that is cozy in the winter months. Huge windows open during summer to bring the outside, in. The menu is focused and leans toward the California interpretations of Mexican cuisine. The pork dishes are a bit more traditional, while the fish tacos have a NW flair. The carne asada is nicely done, and there are veggie and gluten-free options all over the menu. Happy hour is a big draw with lots of great dishes and featured drinks on the cheap. While being part of a small chain of restaurants might seem one-dimensional, Matador promotes local sourcing on ingredients and lets each store have its own personality. NW Portland is a great neighborhood for exploring, and a tequila flight at the Matador is an entertaining way to get the party started.
OK, we didn’t exactly go far for dinner. We were staying in the Ace Hotel, just two doors down, but we were jet-lagged and hungry. We had seen many people hunched over enormous sandwiches through the window of this traditional-style deli at lunchtime, and we were surprised to see they were still open at 7:30pm. So we went in. We liked the simple, homely decor. We liked the smells emanating from the kitchen. We liked the fact that when we decided not to have sodas, the matronly server said, “Nah, you don’t need them honey, I’ll just keep the water coming.” We looked at the menu. We ordered two hot dogs, and a side order of pastrami fries. The waitress looked at our innocent little faces and told us we’d only need a half portion, as a whole portion of pastrami fries was “pretty big.” Our hot dogs arrived. They were delicious, and stacked with homemade relish. Our fries arrived. The “half portion” was so large we laughed out loud, then stuffed ourselves with the delicious cheese-pastrami-potato concoction until we should by rights have passed out. We got the check. It came to $14. We blessed Kenny & Zuke’s, and all who sail in her.
Finding fine French bakery goods beyond the borders of France would seem unlikely in this NW corner of the United States. St. Honoré has transformed a little shop in NW Portland into a cultural escapade you’d normally have to get on a plane to experience. This bakery has been a mainstay for the French community in PDX for years and now has a fanatic following that has forged two other locations. The original is a cozy cafe with French influences that make it impossible to drive by when the fresh bread aromas drift out onto Thurman Street. The space is open and inviting with a staff that loves to share their expertise about the whole St Honoré process. This was one of the only places open early for live Tour de France coverage accompanied with fine coffee and pastries. Rolling up in the dark on my bike back in the days of Lance (c’est dommage) to find the place already packed was Franco-fantastic. The restaurant is designed to get patrons to be part of the scene. With the baking close and the big banquet vibe, you instantly feel part of the Honoré table. The menu goes beyond pastries and desserts. Lunch or dinner at Honoré is a trip to Paris or Provence for under $20. Try the panini or manager’s special to light things up. Hang around for sweets with a tart or gateau, and wash it down with a cafe au lait. Don’t forget something for the home front—a baguette at the very least. C’est somptueux!
Perched on a not-so-lonely nude beach on the northern end of Sauvie Island is an enigma. Well above waterline lies a 30-foot orb that piques the imagination and challenges explanation. The “spaceship” origin is not interstellar but certainly presents itself as other-worldly. The craft is actually a ferro cement experimental boat built around 1970 just upriver. It was designed as a self-righting sailboat and carried a local family on adventures for a couple decades before it got away. Now covered in moss and graffiti, it sits as a testament to Oregon innovation and exploration. To do some of your own exploring of this mysterious craft, take Reeder Rd out to where the pavement ends at a spot called Collins Beach, aka the nude beach. (Yes, if you venture out in summer, you will see naked people.) There’s a parking area (permit required) and trails down to the beach. Sitting up in the trees, just above the sand, sits the stripped-out hulk of a dream. The tri-hulled beast looks more like a lifeboat than a spaceship, but alien nonetheless. Be careful climbing around if you decide to explore inside. The rusting steel framework is losing its cement skin in places and can be dangerous. Cycling to the site is a great way to spend an afternoon on the island and get a great workout in the process.
This is a cool clothing store in the Pearl featuring gear and fashion from a variety of mainstream and boutique brands. The Lizard collections coalesce into a catalog of functional apparel with style and sustainability at the heart of their designs. While the Lounge has a great selection of brands, the real draw for me is the Nau gear. From natural and recycled materials in the fabrics, to the cut and fit of clothes designed for people who move, Nau is an essential part of my packing routine. Their designers once told me they want their clothes to be comfortable—whether the wearer is reaching for a hand hold in a 5-9 pitch or reaching for the top shelf tequila behind the bar. The Nau down shirt was the first of what’s become a ubiquitous piece of all-season gear. The Lounge is also known for its own style of events, supporting local, social and environmental causes with food, drink, music, and mingling. Nau also donates a small percentage of each sale to select nonprofits fighting the good fight at the local and global levels. The Lizard Lounge is not just about retail. It’s about wearing your way into a better world and so Portland in the process.
Portland isn’t exactly the kind of city that’s known for being “fancy,” which was why it was so bold for the Starwood Luxury Collection to add a sleek 15th floor to the top of the iconic Meier & Frank department store building downtown—and turn the top nine floors into the swankiest hotel in town. Who would’ve thought that Louis XVI chairs, tufted white leather and teal velvet, crystal chandeliers, and ornate wallpaper would work so well in the city of plaid, beards, and twee bird patterns? In true Field of Dreams fashion, Starwood built it and the travelers came out of the woodwork, hungry for a luxury hotel that embodies the Rose City with everything from environmentally conscious practices and farm-to-table restaurants to an extensive art collection and rooftop honey bee colony. All that’s to say nothing of the private club-like Library, a collaboration with Portland icon Powell’s Books (the world’s largest bookstore) that allows hotel guests to borrow from a curated collection of 3,000 books during their stay. As it turns out, it’s not all that hard to dress Portland to the nines.
The #1 thing recommended to me to see in Portland was the Saturday Market. It lived up to its hype! I spent a few hours Saturday morning wandering around the market and was floored at the talent of the vendors. I was also shocked at how reasonably priced everything was. I purchased a catnip-filled body pillow to bring home for my cat and two hand-painted, extra-large ceramic mugs ($20 each). My only regret was that I didn’t have enough room in my suitcase to bring more stuff home!