Santa Fe

Perched at 7,000 feet above sea level, the historic, high-desert city of Santa Fe honors its deep roots in Spanish, Native American, and Mexican traditions. The charming, 400-year-old state capital, also known as the “City Different,” has become a cultural epicenter for music, diverse art galleries and museums, memorable outdoor adventures, and renowned Southwestern dining. The magical city backs up to the dramatic Sangre de Cristo Mountains and lures travelers with its impossibly blue skies, clean air, vast open landscapes, and stunning pueblo architecture.

Entrance to the Sculpture Garden at the New Mexico Museum of Indian Arts and Culture

Photo courtesy of Jack Parsons/Santa Fe Convention & Visitors Bureau

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Santa Fe?

Summer’s warm months are busy with cultural events, including a world-class opera, art fairs, and chamber music. Fall promises a change in colors as aspen trees turn golden and freshly harvested Hatch chilies come on the market. The colder (less touristy) winter months usher in powdery snow for skiers, and festive walks along winding Canyon Road offer a glowing backdrop of farolitos (small candles). While spring’s arrival can feel a bit late, the crowds are still thin, so it’s a perfect time for outdoor strolls and more vigorous hikes.

How to get around Santa Fe

Visitors arrive at either Albuquerque International Sunport Airport or the smaller Santa Fe Municipal Airport. The 90-minute Rail Runner commuter train runs from Albuquerque (a quick shuttle bus takes you to the train from Sunport) to Santa Fe. The reasonably priced Sandia Shuttle Express van makes frequent airport runs, dropping off at various Santa Fe locales. To properly explore and enjoy long scenic drives, rental cars are readily available at the airport.

For easy access to the surrounding desert and landscapes, it’s best to rent a car. But once you’re in town, Santa Fe is extremely walkable. A leisurely stroll takes you around the Plaza (the heart of downtown) or up legendary Canyon Road and through the contemporary arts scene in the vibrant Railyard District. Various hiking and biking trails beckon those who crave outdoor activities.

Can’t miss things to do in Santa Fe

The New Mexico State Capitol, known as the Roundhouse, holds an impressive art collection. It includes 600 pieces (paintings, photographs, sculpture, textiles, mixed-media), spread over four floors, but easily accessible and free to visitors. The extensive collection is limited to works created by artists who live in New Mexico.

Food and drink to try in Santa Fe

The diverse dining scene is a melting pot of Spanish, Mexican, cowboy, Mediterranean, and Pueblo Native American influences. Earthy tamales, enchiladas, and chiles rellenos are classic Southwestern offerings. The official New Mexico state question, “Red or green?” asks what chili sauce you want smothering your dish. (Red is more pungent, green is packed with heat.) For a taste of both, the marriage of red and green sauces is known as Christmas. Margaritas are abundant on drink menus, alongside craft brews and award-winning local sparkling wines.

Culture in Santa Fe

The original Native American tribes in the region were joined by the Spanish settlers in the 16th century. Today you can expect a melting pot of these and Anglo influences, and a colorful spectrum of traditions. The merging of the Old and New Worlds has resulted in a fascinating and unique style of architecture that can be seen in centuries-old haciendas, colonial buildings, and Spanish churches.

In summer, shoppers arrive for the popular Indian Market, which brings together over 1,200 artists from 100 different tribes, and the Folk Art Market, which showcases textiles, toys, and jewelry. Fall is the time for the Santa Fe Fiesta, celebrating the town’s 1692 settlement with concerts and a carnival. The Spanish Market showcases traditional Spanish colonial arts, and Christmastime brings festivities along Canyon Road amid a warm glow of lights.

Local travel tips for Santa Fe

At this high elevation, locals frequently apply, and reapply, effective sunscreen, and it’s good to note that the effects of one alcoholic drink at this altitude equals around three elsewhere—so tread lightly on those delicious margaritas and specialty beers. For those who have trouble adjusting to altitude, try a massage catering to what ails, or a dose of the locally produced ChlorOxygen, a chlorophyll herbal remedy that purports to increase your blood’s capacity to hold oxygen. And, in the food category, locals eat the fluffy fried pastries (known as sopapillas) after their meal.

Guide Editor

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The elegant, grown-up Compound Restaurant on Santa Fe’s Canyon Road caters to devoted locals and tourists alike with a Southwestern-meets-Mediterranean focus. James Beard Award–winning chef Mark Kiffin scores with entrées like roasted rack of lamb, salmon with crispy pancetta, and wild mushrooms with organic stone-ground polenta. At lunch, the bar menu is less pricey and offers a chance to sample the famed Compound Burger, made with local Lone Mountain Ranch Wagyu beef, and wash it down with a cold beer. Even with the fantastic cuisine, the best parts of this white tablecloth and custom furniture institution remain the clean adobe arches and folk-art decor created by artist Alexander Girard.
For decades, the venerable Geronimo, situated in a 1756 adobe, has been serving a bevy of culinary delights. From the house favorites like peppery elk tenderloin to New Mexico lamb chops, the food is accessible and the timeless milieu is intimate. Sit on the front patio with a cocktail for the full Canyon Road people-watching experience. Inside, the stylish series of small dining rooms showcases wood floors, taxidermy, fireplaces, and beamed ceilings.
Since 1983, Santacafé has been a culinary destination for the chic lunch set (Tom Ford is a fan). Opt, as they do, for eclectic “classics” like crispy calamari with four-chile lime dipping sauce, shrimp and spinach dumplings with tahini sauce, or the homemade pasta of the day. Come summer, the large patio is bustling, while in winter, guests are ushered into the minimalist-yet-cozy dining room, made warm with fireplaces and cool with taxidermy.
The warm, handsome dining room at Terra is situated high enough for sweeping Santa Fe sunsets and glorious mountain silhouettes. Helmed by chef Andrew Cooper, the food is contemporary American and Southwestern, from tortilla soup to pan-seared scallops to a zesty green chili braised short rib. After your meal, visit the mod, circular outdoor fire pit and wind down with a nightcap. The cool inside bar has a great wall of old black-and-white photos, including one with visiting actor and cowboy Robert Redford.
When most people look at a piece of turquoise, they see a pretty blue stone. The people of New Mexico see water, sky, bountiful harvests, and a source of health and protection. Turquoise has been a valuable stone—in jewelry, for ceremonial purposes, and as an object of trade—for more than a thousand years. Many works of art incorporating turquoise are on permanent display in New Mexico, at institutions like the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe. You can also, however, see (and touch) them at street festivals and markets along with weaving, pottery, silverwork, Kachina dolls, and more. You may even decide to take a bit of New Mexico home with you.
Some visitors to Santa Fe are surprised to find this Gothic revival structure in the middle of all of the adobe buildings in the historic district, like a piece of medieval Paris transplanted to the Wild West. The French connection is real—the 19th-century Loretto Chapel was designed by a French architect who modeled it after La Sainte Chapelle in Paris. According to legend, though, the plans failed to include access from the chapel floor to the choir loft. So, the nuns who ran the girls’ school for which this stone structure was built began praying, and after nine days, a mysterious carpenter arrived. Neither nails nor glue nor any visible external support were used in this doubly-twisting staircase, and no one ever found out the name of the carpenter, who left without seeking payment. It must’ve been St. Joseph himself...so goes the legend of “the miraculous staircase.” The physics of the structure can be explained by architects today, but that doesn’t stop about a quarter-million visitors every year from marveling at the elegant spruce spiral. Open to the public as a privately run museum, the Loretto Chapel hasn’t been a church for decades. It can, however, be rented: a spectacular setting for a private wedding.
This unassuming adobe house in Santa Fe is home to one of the world’s ‘top ten places’ to drink chocolate. (Seriously. It ranks up there with anything in Europe or South America.) Walk the few blocks from the city’s central Plaza, open the door and inhale the pre-columbian fragrance of the eight or nine ‘drinking elixirs’ that will be swirling and ready to serve. Free samples will tempt and educate you... My wife lingered over the “Spanish” blend, sipping on a blend of chocolate, floral essence, coconut sugar and spices, while I had their version of “atole,” a traditional hearty breakfast drink made with blue corn masa, chocolate, honey, Mexican vanilla, and local chimayó chile pepper. But there’s more to cacao here than just drinking; the handmade truffles, caramels and mendiants are arrestingly good! The house-made agave caramels dusted with chile powder (again, from the beloved chimayó peppers from their namesake valley just north of the city) or topped with nuts from the pinyon pines so common in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo mountains--these are treats with a definite taste-of-place. Sip. Savor. Linger. Marvel.
A local institution, situated since 1953 in a 1692 adobe hacienda with brightly colored walls and a pretty courtyard, the Shed is deservedly famous for its smoky chile, just-hefty-enough blue corn tortillas, and classic recipes. Its sister restaurant, La Choza, is another local favorite. “We don’t have ambition to do a lot more,” says co-owner Courtney Carswell. “We just do what we do.” And they do it well.
A bit of a dive a mile and a half from Santa Fe’s tourist center, Maria’s has been a local favorite since 1952. The food is straightforward and delicious, but the place is at least as beloved for its margaritas—an eight-page menu lists more than 200 choices, all made with 100 percent agave tequila and lemon juice—which routinely win “best of” awards from local publications. Read more about green chilis. This appeared in the January/February 2014 issue.
There is so much art to see in Santa Fe, it’s endless. Along with artisan markets, small galleries, the Georgia O’Keeffe museum and numerous small shops, we visited the MOCNA. It’s a museum that is connected to the Institute of American Indian Arts and is a very manageable space. There are all sorts and time periods of art and revolving shows. Definitely worth an hour or so if you are in Santa Fe. There is also a great gift/book shop as well. **The artist in the picture above is Keith Braveheart