Telluride

A six-hour drive—or quick flight—from Denver, Telluride has all the charm of a Colorado resort town (jaw-dropping mountain peaks, a cinematic 19th-century main street) yet feels comparatively undiscovered. The former Wild West mining town of just over 2,000 residents is full of citified lures like breweries and boutiques, but the mountains beyond are as wild as they come, with postcard-worthy hiking trails and multiple waterfalls. In fact, the area’s original inhabitants, the Ute Indians, once called their home the “Valley of Hanging Waterfalls.”

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Photo by Craig Zerbe/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Telluride?

Famous for its skiing, Telluride sheds its humble façade each winter to become the world-class mountain destination that visitors know and love. The town is arguably even more fun in summer, however, when its mountains are cloaked in verdant wildflowers and the average high temperature is a balmy 75 degrees. While spring and fall are less popular, they can be worthy times to visit for locals-only streets and rock-bottom hotel prices. Telluride also plays hosts to several festivals worth planning a trip around, from the Mountainfilm Festival (May) and the Telluride Film Festival (Labor Day Weekend) to the Telluride Blues & Brews Festival (mid-September).

How to get around Telluride

Some visitors make the six-hour drive from Denver, but year-round daily flights direct to Telluride’s Montrose Regional Airport are available from Denver International and Dallas Fort-Worth International airports. During the busy ski and summer seasons, you can also find regular direct flights from New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Houston, Phoenix, Salt Lake City, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. The airport is a 90-minute drive from Telluride proper but, once there, you can stroll practically everywhere on your own two feet—the town’s charming historic district is just six blocks wide and twelve long.

Can’t miss things to do in Telluride

You’d be remiss to leave Telluride without stopping by the town’s Wild West hot spots—after all, this is where Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank back in 1889. Grab a whiskey on the rocks at the New Sheridan Hotel’s Historic Bar, built in 1885, and check out “ye olde” displays (like a thousand-year-old Anasazi blanket) at the Telluride Historical Museum, housed in a former hospital from 1896. If you’re visiting in summer, hiking to the glass-clear Alta Lakes is practically required and guaranteed to get some Instagram likes.

Food and drink to try in Telluride

While exhausted hikers and skiers alike find comfort in Telluride’s microbrews and macro burgers, there’s so much more to the town’s food scene than all-American classics. Tuck in to the perfect pra ram stir-fry cooked by Thai expat chefs at Siam Telluride; try the pizza that took home top prize at Italy’s Pizza World Championship at Brown Dog Pizza; and even take a cooking class with chef Eliza Gavin from Top Chef: Season 10 at her restaurant 221 South Oak. For a special night out, the mountaintop Allred’s Restaurant, accessible by gondola, offers an eagle’s-eye view of the valley.

Culture in Telluride

Creative pursuits can take the back seat in outdoorsy towns like this one, yet Telluride’s art scene is burgeoning, thanks in large part to the work of Telluride Arts. Around since 1971, the organization works to develop the town’s creative pulse and maintains the innovative Gallery 81435, named for the local zip code. Another spot not to miss is the Telluride Gallery of Fine Art, where you’ll find necklaces made of LEGOs by San Francisco’s Emiko Oye.

For Families

Disneyland can wait. For our money, there are few more rewarding family destinations than this one, with its multitude of natural wonders and kid-geared delights. Here, families can search for fairies on the back of a horse-turned-unicorn (with Telluride Academy), or even take a sleigh ride to a sunset dinner in a tent (with Telluride Wagons and Sleighs).

Local travel tips for Telluride

Book your accommodations well in advance (occupancy rates often hit 100 percent, especially around the holidays). As anywhere in Colorado, you should also prepare for mountain weather when you leave your hotel— it can be 75 and sunny during the day, and cool and crisp in the evening. Layers are essential.

Guide Editor

Kathryn O’Shea-Evans is a Colorado-based writer with bylines in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Travel + Leisure, and many other outlets. Read more of her work at kathrynosheaevans.com or follow her on Instagram at @kathrynosheaevans.

Updated January 2019.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
In Telluride, Colorado, summer brings wine, art, and live music to the San Juan Mountains.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Telluride’s food scene goes well beyond the typical ski town’s burgers and chicken fingers. Here, you’ll find everything from award-winning pizza to renowned Thai fare to a Top Chef star’s take on vegetarian cuisine, making Telluride worth a visit for the restaurants alone.
Among the most lauded hotel openings in recent years, Dunton Hot Springs is a glitterati mainstay, with its batch of former mining community cabins that look straight out of a Ralph Lauren catalogue. You don’t have to book a pricey stay at this Relais & Chateaux property to be part of the experience, however—the spa is open to the public. Make an appointment for the indulgent, only-in-Colorado Dolores hot-stone massage, which uses heated stones culled from the Dolores River to work out your kinks. Then, take a soak in the on-site sulfuric hot springs, which were once a restorative playground for the Ute Indians.
For anyone who believes that truly historic architecture doesn’t exist in the states, Mesa Verde National Park will make you think again. Still standing in the park are cliff dwellings built in 600 CE by the ancestral Pueblo people who once lived in the area. A transformative day trip, Mesa Verde is nearly two hours from Telluride but well worth the drive to see its 5,000 archeological sites, from Cliff Palace (a ranger will guide you on the hike up, which involves climbing ten-foot ladders) to Balcony House (which you’ll enter via a 12-foot tunnel).
The epitome of fine dining, La Marmotte is as sophisticated as Telluride’s mountains are wild. While dining here, you can expect to enjoy expertly prepared dishes like beef tartare with caper berries and lemon, and roasted mahi-mahi, dusted with bee pollen and served with black garlic and sage sauce. Despite the elegant atmosphere, service is always fantastic, with no hint of snootiness.
Telluride is blessed with several great coffee shops, but Steaming Bean is special for its world-class loose-leaf teas. Sure, you could come in for the home blend, the local organic roast, the daily drip, or the French press. You could enjoy the peanut butter bagels or the blueberry Belgian waffles. Or you could even drop by late in the day for some homemade limoncello, a vodka affogato, or a Rock and Rye. But what locals return for again and again are the Steeping Leaf earl grey and the magnolia oolong, both of which embody the phrase “good cuppa.”
Picky eaters should make a beeline for eco-friendly Baked in Telluride, where menu offerings include gluten- and dairy-free cakes and cookies, plus traditional deli counter delights like Reubens bursting with enough pastrami to power you through an afternoon of black-diamond skiing. Don’t leave without trying the puff-pastry vegetarian burrito or a slice of the sourdough-crust pizza.
Telluride’s literary mecca, this beloved store is stacked with more than 10,000 books at any given time. The expertly curated regional books section is a fount of the Wild West’s writing prowess, with illustrative tomes on the town’s lurid backstory (you’ll want to peruse Tomboy Bride: A Woman’s Personal Account of Life in Mining Camps of the West). When your eyelids get heavy, head to the tiny coffee bar—squirreled away at the back of the shop—for a caffeine jolt to bolster an afternoon of reading.
Whether you want to stay right on the mountain or in the heart of town, Telluride offers a range of accommodations, most with spacious rooms, delicious restaurants, and top-notch amenities like ski valets, spas, and outdoor heated pools.
After a full day of skiing or hiking, nothing sounds more appealing than a spa treatment. Thankfully, Telluride offers plenty of places for pampering, from lavish resorts with hot springs to luxurious spas offering massages, facials, and more.
Telluride wouldn’t be a ski town without a great après scene. Its bars go far beyond dives, however, ranging from a historic watering hole to a modern-day speakeasy to a distillery making its own peppermint schnapps.