St. Lucia

A spellbinding otherness sets St. Lucia apart from its Caribbean cousins. The twin spires of the Pitons rise dramatically from the sea like ancient island stewards, granting passage to hot springs, waterfalls, and beaches. A honeymooner’s paradise with some of the finest luxury resorts and sunset vistas in all of the West Indies, this remarkable island is also a great hiking destination, a scuba and snorkeling hotspot, and an excellent place to try island cuisine. Capital city Castries pulses with a free-spirited vitality, while picturesque Soufrière draws visitors eager to experience its old fishing port, sulfur springs, and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

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Photo By Corinne Kutz/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to St. Lucia?

With a subtropical climate kept mild by cooling trade winds, St. Lucia is pretty much perfect year-round. However, there’s a greater chance of tropical showers and hurricanes from June through November. The busiest, most expensive time to visit is during the dry season from December to April. Those looking for fewer crowds and lower rates should consider going in May or June, when temperatures range from the high 70s to the mid-80s.

How to get around St. Lucia

Direct flights to St. Lucia’s Hewanorra International Airport (UVF) are available from New York and Boston on JetBlue; New Jersey and Chicago on United Airlines; Atlanta on Delta; and Philadelphia, Charlotte, and Miami on American Airlines. Interisland travel within the Caribbean is also available on airlines like LIAT, Air Caraïbes, Air Antilles, and Caribbean Airlines as well as on a variety of ferries.

Once on St. Lucia, minibuses serve as the main ground transportation. These buses run at various times depending on the route, with fares ranging from around 90 cents to $3. Cabs are also readily available at taxi stands or by phone—just be sure to confirm the fare before riding. Those wishing to do their own driving can rent cars or scooters at the island’s airports, hotels, or car rental offices. A temporary license, required for visitors, can easily be obtained by presenting a valid U.S. driver’s license at the airport, at the police station in Castries, or at car rental offices. Remember to drive on the left side of the road.

Food and drink to try in St. Lucia

St. Lucia’s cuisine, like the island’s culture, draws from the numerous neighbors, visitors, would-be conquerors, and colonialists that have passed through since the 16th century. Local food is often spicy but balanced by the accompaniment of rice or potatoes and gravy. The national dish is salt fish with green figs—a fragrant, spicy pairing of fish, fig bananas, veggies, Scotch bonnet peppers, and spices. The Jamaican diaspora has introduced meat patties, jerk chicken, and other foods to St. Lucia, while other Commonwealth nations have contributed macaroni pie, peas and rice, fish stew, and coconut-based soups. Caribbean-style curries are prevalent, and roti pockets (common in Trinidad and Tobago) are now one of the country’s most popular snacks.

Culture in St. Lucia

St. Lucia’s identity is a fusion of French, English, West African, and local Caribbean cultures, informed by colonial forces and driven by centuries-old customs and traditions. Flower festivals like La Rose (August 30) and La Marguerite (October 17) hold a place on local calendars. Creole Day is celebrated across the island on the final Sunday in October, with bright costumes, traditional feasts, and raucous parades and concerts bringing out the reveler in everyone. A traditional folk music scene survives in Castries and several other towns, though Caribbean music from other island nations is also widely popular. Traditional art is held in high regard and soccer is the most popular sport.

Can’t miss things to do in St. Lucia

St. Lucia is perfect for sunseekers on the lookout for sand, surf, and a place to unwind with a rum punch and a good book, but this tiny island is also primed to reward more active visitors with some of the Caribbean’s most remarkable experiences. Grand accommodations abound, perhaps none as grand as Ladera, the only hotel inside the island’s UNESCO site and a destination in and of itself, thanks to its sweeping panoramic views, world-class restaurant, and cultural immersion programs. The beautiful beaches of Pigeon Island National Park are a short ferry ride away, as are scuba and snorkel expeditions that introduce the deep blue.

Practical Information

The temperature in St. Lucia hovers between 75 and 90 degrees year-round, thanks to the island’s size and proximity to the trade winds. Visitors from North America don’t need a visa but must present a return ticket before entry is granted. Hewanorra International (UVF) is the main airport, but its east coast location puts it nearly an hour away from most west coast accommodations. Ferries to and from Martinique and Guadeloupe are available. The currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar, but U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere. Hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge, though leaving at least 5% more as a tip is expected in upmarket establishments. Electricity is 220–230 volts, but some hotels are wired for U.S. appliances.

Guide Editor

Lebawit Lily Girma is an award-winning travel journalist, photographer, and blogger who splits her year between the U.S. and the Caribbean. Her writing and photography, focusing on culture, nature, and adventure, have appeared in CNN Travel, Delta Sky, BBC Travel, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, Morning Calm (Korean Air), Shermans Travel, Travel Channel, and others. In 2016, she received the Caribbean Tourism Organization’s Marcia Vickery Wallace Memorial Award for excellence in travel journalism. Follow her journey online at Sunshine and Stilettos.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
On the northeast coast in the Cap Estate area, you’ll find the lovely Cas en Bas Beach. The white-sand beach around a C-shaped bay offers some fun diversions, including horses—you can ride on the sand and even venture a bit into the water—as well as kitesurfers and windsurfers who take advantage of the steady trade winds. A visit will provide you with a contrast to the beach experience on the calmer, busier Caribbean coastline. On the weekend, locals come to fish and picnic. Another draw to the beach is one of the island’s most popular local restaurants and bars, the rustic Marjorie’s Beach Bar, which serves up local food and ambience.
Around for over 10 years, this small “ital” (vegetarian) and vegan spot dishes out flavorful, affordable, and creative lunches in the one-table interior of a green house in Soufrière’s downtown. Favorites include the house pizza, a pie with whole-wheat crust topped with lentils, cabbage, pumpkin, and cheese. Other options include salads, veggie burgers, empanadas, smoothies, fresh juices, and a special cocoa tea. The atmosphere is about as casual as it gets, with a TV loudly blasting as locals stop by for a bite and to hang out.
Find great St. Lucian soul food right in the heart of Gros Islet at a traditional pastel-colored house turned restaurant. Generous meals—pork chops, fresh fish, lamb chops, curried goat, corn, rice and peas—are cooked and grilled outdoors and served up at picnic tables in front or on a side garden terrace. The food is plated as artfully as in more upscale establishments. Don’t skip the rum cocktails or the homemade dessert of the day. The place gets busy quickly, so arrive early for both lunch and dinner service—particularly on Friday nights when Gros Islet fills up for its weekly fish fry.
Stretched out from the northwest corner of the island like a small arm, Pigeon Island is a historical landmark and a satisfying all-in-one nature, beach, and hiking escape minutes from Rodney Bay Marina. The 44-acre mountainous green plot is home to the preserved ruins of British military forts and garrisons; the Brits chased the Caribs out and used the islet to monitor French activity. Walk among the ruins, and hike up to the cannons of Fort Rodney, where the lookout point offers a breathtaking panoramic view of St. Lucia’s coastline and the sea below, dotted with sailboats. Hike down to the beach for a swim and a toast to history at Jambe de Bois, a restaurant on the water.
A visit to Sulphur Springs, which is dubbed the world’s only drive-in volcano, is one of the most unusual excursions you can make in the Caribbean. You’ll smell the rotten-egg stench of sulfur and see steam rising around the dormant volcano’s crater upon arrival. (Don’t worry: The last time the volcano erupted was two centuries ago.) Locals claim that soaking in the mud baths then rinsing off with a dip in the hot springs will rejuvenate your skin and relieve mosquito bites and minor skin problems. Be sure to take a before-and-after selfie to determine whether you look younger after the experience.
Hike around the ruins of Morne Fortune (“good luck hill”), a former military outpost overlooking the harbor it was meant to protect. The site was hardly good luck during the 18th century: Several bloody battles between the French and the British took place here. The remaining structures on Morne include guard cells and a powder magazine, the building used to store gunpowder and ammunition, as well as French and British burial grounds. At the top of the hill, near a memorial to the British infantry regiment that captured Morne Fortune in 1796, you’ll find a great spot for a panoramic view over Castries and its harbor.
A permit and a guide are required to hike in the Edmund Forest Reserve, in the interior of the island. A permit can easily be obtained through your guesthouse or hotel, and a forest guide can be hired at the reserve. The 18,000-acre park offers various hiking trails: The Edmund Rainforest Trail is a four-hour, seven-mile strenuous hike concluding with a view of Mount Gimie. A less intense hike is the Des Cartier Rainforest Trail, on relatively flat terrain, with plenty of flora along the way. Bird-watchers will love the Millet Bird Sanctuary Trail, a two-mile loop through the habitat of over 30 species, including the St. Lucian parrot and hummingbirds.
Take a break from days at the beach with a stroll through these quiet, lush gardens. The nature trail is well marked and easy to navigate. Identify the local birds, including the St. Lucian parrot, with the help of labels and pictures along the trail. The water of the garden’s Diamond Falls is a unique rustlike color due to the minerals picked up along the stream’s path past a volcano, two miles upstream. The waterfall’s colors change according to the recent rainfall. Though you can’t swim in the falls, you can relax in hot mineral spring baths. Visit early in the morning, and avoid cruise-ship days so you can have the place to yourself.
The interior of the Catholic Church of the Assumption, in the heart of Soufrière town, will surprise with its decidedly Caribbean hues and French design: an ornate wood ceiling vaulted to resemble the ribs of a boat, baby blue pillars, and brightly colored stained-glass windows. Visitors are welcome to join in the Saturday evening mass at 6:30 or Sunday morning mass at 8:30, both with the sermon in English and Creole. A quick and respectful tour is also possible at other times to admire the architecture, including the partially blue-painted exterior. While there is no printed information on the church inside, it’s worth a stop.
Built in 1891, St. Lucia’s most colorful and largest open-air market sits in the heart of its capital. It’s a one-stop-shopping favorite for fruits, vegetables, spices, handmade arts and crafts, and even handwoven beachwear. The produce is definitely the highlight. The stall tables are beautifully set and decorated, while the fragrance of herbs and condiments fills the air, turning it into a multisensory island experience. The market is open daily, 7 a.m.–1 p.m., but the most active morning is Saturday. After shopping, grab a seat at the adjacent annex to sample some local foods—a breakfast bowl of cow-foot soup (the perfect hangover cure) or a Creole fish lunch.